90 GMC Sierra rear brake change

[Supercharged111]

You're going to need a NBS MC upgrade first...

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[Erik the Awful]

ABS was marketed to the American public as if it reduced stopping distance.

And...it can. If the driver is an idiot, or inexperienced in heavy braking. Which, sadly, is "most drivers"...

That's very true for the early systems, absolutely wrong for the good systems. My race team had issues with the ABS not working on our BMW after we thinned out the wiring harness. It absolutely hurt our lap times. We got it working again and it's one of those "hot ticket" items that we fix ASAP if it breaks. We contend very well, and we have some very good drivers (not me, I'm just mostly competent).

 

[Supercharged111]

That's very true for the early systems, absolutely wrong for the good systems. My race team had issues with the ABS not working on our BMW after we thinned out the wiring harness. It absolutely hurt our lap times. We got it working again and it's one of those "hot ticket" items that we fix ASAP if it breaks. We contend very well, and we have some very good drivers (not me, I'm just mostly competent).

Agreed, but the argument here was the garbage systems that came on our trucks to keep dumb people alive. Not modern good systems.

 

[HotWheelsBurban]

Properly functioning ABS is not a bad thing. At least the 4 wheels ABS like the newer ones got. We've had several stops in both trucks, that we could not have made without it. But with it, we were able to stop smoothly and completely, even if changing lanes.

 

[90gmcsierraL59]

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RWAL control box and dump valve removed.

 

[90gmcsierraL59]

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Line repositioned and re-bent. Adapter fitting installed and snugged up. That took 15 seconds to type and 2 hours to do. It is 28 in my shop and I had Hell getting it straight enough to start but it is done. I took my turkey baster and sucked all the fluid out of the rear brake portion of the master cylinder to minimize dripping when I took the lines loose. Then I filled it back up after to do a static leak check. So far it is dry. I can't do a dynamic leak check as the brakes are apart.

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[Schurkey]

You're going to need a NBS MC upgrade first...

...and a Little Shop of Horrors rear-disc "upgrade".

 

[90gmcsierraL59]

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My good friend Frank B came over this morning and we got after it. Brake job done with all the new parts. I do see the design flaws Y'All are referring to. Whoever designed the adjusters with no way to adjust the brakes with the drums on needs knocked in the head. We got them on and adjusted. Then we vacuum bled them with my Mity Vac and pumped them up and bled them manually as well. We had a slight seep at the adapter fitting for the RWAL delete on the proportioning valve that we cured with a good tightening. I am pleased to report a much firmer pedal with less travel so far. I still have to put the wheels back on and install the clamps on the topper before a real test can be done with the engine running. I am cautiously optimistic.

 

[90gmcsierraL59]

Today I finished the initial topper installation and then went for a test drive to town and filled it up with gas. Braking performance is much better and the pedal is considerably firmer. Thanks to all for the recommendations for the RWAL delete. It really helped my truck. I recommend it for anyone who has one. Best $5 ( for the adapter fitting) I have spent in a long time. And thank you all for the education on how the brakes actually work and adjust on my truck.