7.4 Vortec k2500 Exhaust Manifold/ Header Install

[BNielsen]

Dang those look good!
Makes me want to hurry up and fork out the cash for a set,

 

[Mangonesailor]

Yes- RC 6 inch but torsion bars in lowest setting so it’s more like 4 inches

Speaking of torsion bars: http://realiftsusp.com/

If I were to lift mine (which may be in the cards in a couple years) I'd utilize these offset adapters. Lifts look great and work great, but the lack of break over angle if you don't SAS an IFS is a bummer.

One of these days....

In any case, post some pics of those airbags. Do you have a build thread?

 

[Aparke4]

Speaking of torsion bars: http://realiftsusp.com/

If I were to lift mine (which may be in the cards in a couple years) I'd utilize these offset adapters. Lifts look great and work great, but the lack of break over angle if you don't SAS an IFS is a bummer.

One of these days....

In any case, post some pics of those airbags. Do you have a build thread?

No build thread though it’s worthy of one as this has been my project for the last 4 years.


I really really wants to do SAS with links and coil overs but also like the simplicity of a Ford Dana 60 bolt in affair with leafs. WFO is only 2 hours away so I extremely tempted to get all parts and have them do a clean install. I sprung for IFS as The RC had a Black Friday Sale from Morris 4x4 and I knew I could confidently install in my drive with no welder needed. I plan on overlanding and some medium core wheeling and as much as I like the ifs on road, there is little to no flex in the torsion bar set up. The real lift drop bracket eliminators are a must have. The frame exposed with body lift is one thing but the drop bracket just hanging down even further is pretty dang low and is a huge rock magnet.

I can snap a few pics of the airbags in the rear. I went with the bolt on Firestone setup for this era truck and have them “wired” independently. I often have some heavy payloads and they have helped dramatically with ride and leveling. Around town I keep 8-10 psi in them and they are technically good for up to 90 though that would be overkill even for a gooseneck or heavy bumper bull trailer.

 

[81nascar]

Sweet !!! looks good. I did my oil lines as well. I went through 3 sets of them from all different manufactures and they ALL leaked after time.. Got sick of it so I took my lines to a hydraulic shop add had them make me new ones . Now I don't have any issues and the should last the life of the truck or me.

 

[Aparke4]

I was going to get the vortec oil plug adapter from PACE but its OOS. What did you do to retain the check valve? Mine are leaking and its time to fix once and for all!!

https://paceperformance.com/i-51462...vy-oil-cooler-connector-3-8-npt-to-10-an.html

 

[axisT6]

I was going to get the vortec oil plug adapter from PACE but its OOS. What did you do to retain the check valve? Mine are leaking and its time to fix once and for all!!

https://paceperformance.com/i-51462...vy-oil-cooler-connector-3-8-npt-to-10-an.html

Confirming, the down pipe pieces with the 3 bolt flanges came with the headers?

 

[EKOBS]

Driving around is what rusted them in the first place.

No harm in letting the hardware "marinade" in penetrating oil.

MAP-Pro may or may not get them hot enough to do some good. Keep in mind that some heat may allow the penetrant to soak-in, but heat makes steel weak--you don't want bolt shanks or studs to be hot when you remove them. Nuts can be warm, but not so warm that they distort or round-off.

"I" would heat the nuts 'til they glowed. When they've cooled enough that the penetrant you're spraying on isn't smoking, rattle 'em off with a six-point socket on an impact wrench. Use the shortest extension you can. The less there is between socket and impact, the better. A swivel socket can be a real blessing, as there's no side-force on the stud to break it.

Getting the studs out of the head would be somewhat similar--heat 'em til they glow, let 'em cool so that when you add your penetrant it isn't smoking. Turn 'em out at room temperature, possibly by locking two nuts together and then applying force to the inner nut to back the stud out. Be REALLY CAREFUL if you're applying side-force on the stud or bolt. Side force can cause the shank to break. Avoid side-force if possible.

This is excellent advice, and I love my oxy/acetylene torch too.