Yea, once all that stuff was removed from the inner doors, the install was actually pretty easy.
I did the truck in stages over a few weekends. This is in my daily & I can't have it down for more than a day.
I did the headliner & back wall on a Sunday afternoon. Didn't even remove the seat.
Next weekend I did the doors.
A couple of weeks later when I was feeling energetic, pulled the seat & the rubber flooring. I left the underlay still attached to that, as factory.
Not much was affected by the deadener.
The rubber flooring in these trucks isn't so much of an exact fit to the contour of the floor pan. There is a some wiggle room in there for the deadener to fit underneath. Aftermarket carpet kits fit much the same way. If I was to make a cut-&-sew set of carpets, the fit would be better than the kits, but the fabrication for that wouldn't happen until all the deadener was already installed, anyway.
Work with cut sizes of the deadener in no larger than 2' long pieces. Too big of a piece and there's a chance of the sticky backing touching itself. Then it's stuck! It ain't coming apart! That backing is tenacious! Throw that piece away.
Once the seats & flooring is removed, blow out the floor & vacuum really well.
Re-install all the bolts for the seats, the belts & console (if equipped) before starting. Not cranked down tight. Just need to be a few threads in. That way, before removing the protective film off of the backing, all the holes for the bolts can be pre-cut in the deadener. Cut those holes about a 1/2" bigger than the bolt head. With all the thickness that's being added, you don't need the hassle of a bolt being just that much too short to get through it all.
Roll the deadener in. Stick one long side & then as you roll it, push it into the shapes of the floor. Dropping it in & then trying to make it conform will cause the silver foil to tear & rip.
Start from the center of the truck & work out to the doors. Overlap each piece by about 1/8".
The deadener must be rolled down. Just pushing it onto the floor & into all the crevices & shapes of the floor pan by hand won't cut it. There can be no air bubbles. ...and once that stuff is rolled down, it ain't ever coming off.
Kinda makes me wonder what will have to be done if these doors ever need to be body-worked! Yikes!
The roller that comes in the kit is poop. I use a small 1.5" wide wooden one that was originally meant for rolling down wallpaper, along with a 3" wide rubber wheeled, long handled 2-handed one that I picked up at the local jobber. I also have a very narrow one for the tight corners that's meant for installing the rubber gasket that holds the screens in screen doors. It has a groove in the circumference (for the screen door gasket) so I filled that with a bit of silicone
Used 2 layers of 1/8" closed-cell because that's is easier to laminate to the floor's contours than a single layer of 1/4".
Keep any deadener away from mounting holes, such as where the plastic pins mount the door panels & the carpet on the rear wall. An inch or so back works.
My '97 has the small headliner, so I had to mark that out (chalk) before I removed it in order to keep the deadener hidden. Again, about an inch back.
Don't cover the bolts that hold on that inner metal panel in the doors.
Don't cover those vents at the bottom of the doors. I did! Oops! Because of that, with the fan in high, I was actually pressurizing the cab! My ears would start to feel all cottony & plugged up until I opened the window. When I did, I could hear the air go 'W-h-o-o-s-h-h-h' out the window & feel the pressure drop inside the truck! My ears 'unplugged' like they would when going through big elevation changes. Weird.
What a pita to get that all cut off of those vents! Doh!
I have pix of all this, but on another computer that's not here right now.
