4l80e swap thread... Again...

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NickTransmissions

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I think I could definitely perform a refresh with the tools I have now and even install a shift kit. The main thing I'm wondering about at this moment is what the best way to fill the tranny with fluid is. I've done many pan drops and filter changes, but not an entire fluid change.

I'm kinda stoked they're sending it dry as it'll let me put some really good fluid in there to begin with.

Nick, do you have videos on the 80 that cover a simple refresh? Also, which channel are you talking about? on you tube or something?
Yep, you can watch my 4L80E rebuild series but largely ignore the dual feed process and other high performance parts/mods installed to support 650+ horsepower and just focus on the general rebuild procedures as things like clutch clearance, apply piston installation, arrangement and order of subassemblies into the case, etc are the same regardless of application and build profile.

Let me know if you have any questions.
 

Astro

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Yep, you can watch my 4L80E rebuild series but largely ignore the dual feed process and other high performance parts/mods installed to support 650+ horsepower and just focus on the general rebuild procedures as things like clutch clearance, apply piston installation, arrangement and order of subassemblies into the case, etc are the same regardless of application and build profile.

Let me know if you have any questions.
I love the videos dude. Great information!

Is there anything you would have me do to the tranny once I receive it? Shift kit? Etc? Also, what the hell is the purpose of the shift kit? Does it just shorten time between shifts?
 

NickTransmissions

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I love the videos dude. Great information!

Is there anything you would have me do to the tranny once I receive it? Shift kit? Etc? Also, what the hell is the purpose of the shift kit? Does it just shorten time between shifts?
Thanks, man!

The purpose of the shift kit is to get you to spend money. There are a few exceptions to this rule when it comes to certain transmissions where the shift kit contains essential corrective components that cant be either found elsewhere individually or duplicated via improvisation or alternative means/methods. Shift kits are fine for folks who just want an out of the box solution and are otherwise not aware of how to mod the transmission and dont have time to try and figure that stuff out...one thing ill tell you if you decide you want to do a shift kit - stay away from the Transgo HD2.

Take the pan off, visually inspect everything. Handle the solenoids and ohm them with a multimeter to confirm/deny they are electrically ok.

Replace the wiring harness and filter.

Those are the basics. From there, id prob install the Sonnax 4L80-LB1 boost valve kit and their TCC regulator valve in the valve body. Then install Central Valve Bodies' AFL valve. This way you proactively address three common trouble spots. From there you can drill the 1-2,2-3 and 3-4 a little bit if you want to firm up the shifts but that's your call.
 

Supercharged111

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In general a shift kit is supposed to mechanically shorten shift times and reduce slippage during shifts. Without a tune a lot of this will be undone. Yes you can command faster shifts in the tune, but what you end up with is big trims as the PCM tries to get it there. It really can only get you so far, my dually really doesn't shift that snappy compared to my 1500 which has a Superior shift kit. Both are commanding faster than stock shift times, but admittedly I kept the torque reduction intact on the dually and deleted it on the 1500. If you take the time to dial a shift kit in properly the effect would be fast shifts with minimal trims. I really don't think any of the shelf kit is going to be bang on in that respect. Think of any given shift kit, even stock, as being the VE for the transmission, i.e. the base tune before any trims are applied.
 

NickTransmissions

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In general a shift kit is supposed to mechanically shorten shift times and reduce slippage during shifts. Without a tune a lot of this will be undone. Yes you can command faster shifts in the tune, but what you end up with is big trims as the PCM tries to get it there. It really can only get you so far, my dually really doesn't shift that snappy compared to my 1500 which has a Superior shift kit. Both are commanding faster than stock shift times, but admittedly I kept the torque reduction intact on the dually and deleted it on the 1500. If you take the time to dial a shift kit in properly the effect would be fast shifts with minimal trims. I really don't think any of the shelf kit is going to be bang on in that respect. Think of any given shift kit, even stock, as being the VE for the transmission, i.e. the base tune before any trims are applied.
Your dually prob weighs a good bit more and so the extra weight absorbs the shift energy before it's felt by the driver. And you're absolutely right about COTS kits not being sufficient to get you there.

For most transmissions, a good tune with some well executed hydraulic and mechanical mods will yield optimal results and in most cases, you can do a better job "fine-tuning" the mechanical shift calibration without spending money on a shift kit.

Here's some general steps builders take when putting together a trans, esp for performance:
- drill clutch (gear) feed orifices in the separator plate per converter stall, vehicle weight, final drive, intended application and desired shift firmness, taking into account the below mods.

- set clutch clearance based on desired firmness (staying within required ranges, the more clearance you have in the pack, the firmer your shift will be into that gear, all other things equal.

Note, firm doesnt necessarily mean fast so clearance and hydraulic mods must be phased in with each other so you arent too fast or too slow in terms of gear shift speed.

- restrict or block off accumulator circuits for the 3rd and 4th* acc circuits rapidly increases speed of apply (reduction in dwell between shift command and applied element fully applied)

*It's not generally recommended to completely delete the 1-2 accumulator circuits in most GM and Ford longitudional transmissions

- install high rate return springs in direct (th350,400,4L60,80) and intermediate clutch (4L80e, th400, th350) to quicken downshifts (and prevent centrifugal apply)

There's other things but those are the main steps.

You pair all of the above with a well-matched tune, the trans will shift like a dream and last a long, long time.
 

Astro

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Found a place that will shorten/lengthen and balance my drive shafts for $400. I elected to go that route because I like my rear one, for one, because it's a 4" aluminum shaft, and I don't feel like messing with the ujoints if I get the 2500/3500 shafts. I know it's not hard, but one less thing to worry about. Also, I have new ujoints for these shafts!
 

Astro

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Got the cooler in guys. Solid as a rock.

Transmission is still in transit though.

Don't worry, I didn't hook the cooler up to the old tranny, lol! Just wanted 5o get the mounting figured out and out of the way.
 

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TechNova

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I have 3 60's with over 200K on them. Driving style makes a huge difference in trans life.
My teenage daughter isn't as easy on equipment and just puked the one with 250 K on it.
She put about the last 20K on it.
 

Astro

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Ah yikes! Yeah I agree to a point. I will admit I have a lead foot lol. I was hauling ass when it died, it had 260k miles on it and 35" tires. Bad recipe.
 

Astro

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Ah yikes! Yeah I agree to a point. I will admit I have a lead foot lol. I was hauling ass when it died, it had 260k miles on it and 35" tires. Bad recipe.
 
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