400 C.I. Vortec

[michael hurd]

You can turn down the main journals on a 400 crank and install it in a 350 block, but I would not bother. You can also install a 350 crank with bearing spacers in a 400 block and make a 377 de-stroker. Again, I would not bother.

I also would not bother trying to use a vortec head on a 383 or a 400 drilling steam holes etc. If you can't do any of the work yourself, and have to farm it out to a machine shop, those factory heads will cost you as much or more than a set of off the shelf aluminum heads that will work out of the box.

With a vortec head, you will need to: disassemble, clean, check for cracks, possibly replace a few valves, machine the valve guides down in height, reduce the diameter, enlarge and deepen the spring pockets for the spring package, possibly install a few valve seats, remove the rocker studs drill and tap for threaded ones, or pin them in place, hog out the pushrod holes, etc etc.

 

[Mississippi]

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[Mississippi]

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[michael hurd]

That scat is for a 2 piece block, pre-86. Eagle and Callies make 1 pc rear main seal cranks.

 

[Mississippi]

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[michael hurd]

That is the weight of the crankshaft.

 

[Mississippi]

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[Mississippi]

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[michael hurd]

One thing you have not taken into consideration is that the factory injectors will only flow so much fuel... and are good to about 400 hp. Even if you swapped to a marine intake with larger external injectors, who will tune it? You are then talking about swapping to a different computer, re-pinning the computer connectors, etc, and possibly towing the truck to a shop where they can tune it on a dyno with a base tune installed to get it running first.

Another option is to toss everything factory in the trash bin and buy a complete injection set up.

Power costs money, how fast do you want to spend?

 

[Mississippi]

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