305 to 350 Swap 96 K1500

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Chief_Handy

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Im really considering doing this swap. I've heard the 305 and 350 are practically "in and out" I know I need a 4 bolt main and engine mounts and such but what am I really looking at if I decide to do this? This is my project truck and i want more power, the 305 is nice but I want something more. If anyone has any advice or experience or knowledge please chip in! Thanks guys!
 

98_k1500

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(1). Unless you make 600 hp, a 4 bolt main is not doing anything but costing you more money to buy. You are better off with a stock vortec 2 bolt main engine.

(2). A 5.7 computer will have a little different tuning and will run better with the 350. That being said, the 5.0 computer will run fine until you come across one.

(3) The 305 engine mounts will bolt directly to a 350, so unless there is something wrong with yours, there is no need to replace them.

(4) If you have a couple extra dollars, short tube headers (for a vortec with the EGR nipple on them) would go nicely and would be a great addition to the 350 for a little more power. I would not suggest long tubes on one of these trucks because of driveshaft clearance issues.
 

Chief_Handy

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(1). Unless you make 600 hp, a 4 bolt main is not doing anything but costing you more money to buy. You are better off with a stock vortec 2 bolt main engine.

(2). A 5.7 computer will have a little different tuning and will run better with the 350. That being said, the 5.0 computer will run fine until you come across one.

(3) The 305 engine mounts will bolt directly to a 350, so unless there is something wrong with yours, there is no need to replace them.

(4) If you have a couple extra dollars, short tube headers (for a vortec with the EGR nipple on them) would go nicely and would be a great addition to the 350 for a little more power. I would not suggest long tubes on one of these trucks because of driveshaft clearance issues.

This was a big help man! Thanks a ton!
 

98_k1500

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No problem man. If you need anything else just ask. Also meant to mention that the 305 and 350 vortec have the same injection spider, so yours will run a 350 perfectly. Just need a 350 ECM to finish it off.
 

Chief_Handy

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I've got some more questions for ya man. Hows the alternator bolt up? Along with the other accessories, basically the same brackets and such.
 

Chief_Handy

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No problem man. If you need anything else just ask. Also meant to mention that the 305 and 350 vortec have the same injection spider, so yours will run a 350 perfectly. Just need a 350 ECM to finish it off.

Alternator, ac, water pump and such
 

Chief_Handy

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No problem man. If you need anything else just ask. Also meant to mention that the 305 and 350 vortec have the same injection spider, so yours will run a 350 perfectly. Just need a 350 ECM to finish it off.

Alternator, ac, water pump and such
 

98_k1500

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The engine blocks are identical in every way on the outside. Everything is a direct swap. The only way you can tell a 305 from a 350 from the outside is it will have 5.0 or 5.7 casted into the area on the block between the drivers side head and the bell housing.
 

Chief_Handy

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The engine blocks are identical in every way on the outside. Everything is a direct swap. The only way you can tell a 305 from a 350 from the outside is it will have 5.0 or 5.7 casted into the area on the block between the drivers side head and the bell housing.

You've been a huge help man. Looks like I'm really gonna start looking for a vortec 350! I'll stay in touch with you if anything comes up!
 

98_k1500

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No prob. I only have internet access at work, so i won't be available over the weekends. Another side note thats vortec specific, you cannot set the ignition timing on a vortec, it it controlled thru the ECM via the crank position sensor. Thus, using a timing light to try to set the distributor correctly is useless, as turning it does not affect the ignition timing. It does, however, set the injector timing (via a setting called cam retard). The rotor button also has to point to the right plug tower in the cap when the ECM decides its time to fire that particular cylinder. Setting the rotor button is easy. You just mark the distributor base where the #1 plug tower is on the cap, set the engine to TDC, and back the rotor up to where it lines up with your mark when its dropped in. Cam retard can be a little more tricky, because to see where it is set, you will need a GM tech 2 scan tool, snap-on MODIS, or other scan tool (not code reader, big difference) capable of setting cam retard. It will have instructions to follow in the scan tool for properly setting it. It will run like crap if this setting is not within spec. If you buy a used engine, my advice is to not disturb the distributor settings. Just marking everything and "eyeballing it" will not get you close enough on these trucks.
 
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