2wd 3/4 ton 6.5 diesel lift!

[RyanMerrick]

Alright. thanks! Do you have any issues with the body lift with it being a 5 spd manual?

No not at all, it actually was easier to install than on an automatic. You will need to make a minor modification to the shift boot however. Below the rubber shift boot is another rubber part with an oval shape to it, the purpose of this part is to help return the shifter to the neutral position. You will need to cut a notch by the 2nd gear location in the rubber, otherwise it will want to shift into neutral whenever you're in 2nd. This is an easy modification, it only took me 15 minutes with an utility knife

 

[95six.five]

No not at all, it actually was easier to install than on an automatic. You will need to make a minor modification to the shift boot however. Below the rubber shift boot is another rubber part with an oval shape to it, the purpose of this part is to help return the shifter to the neutral position. You will need to cut a notch by the 2nd gear location in the rubber, otherwise it will want to shift into neutral whenever you're in 2nd. This is an easy modification, it only took me 15 minutes with an utility knife

Which gear do you mean by 2nd? because mines got 4.10's and 1st(Top left) is a stump puller gear. So i just consider it low and "2nd"(Bottom left) is what i start out in usually.

 

[RyanMerrick]

Which gear do you mean by 2nd? because mines got 4.10's and 1st(Top left) is a stump puller gear. So i just consider it low and "2nd"(Bottom left) is what i start out in usually.

I start in 2nd too, but gearing actually has nothing to do with it, I'm referring the physical location that the stick sits in when your transmission is in 2nd gear (bottom left). See the body is separated from the from frame 3", this means the shifter itself will be 3" lower than its current position. This is why you need to cut a notch by 2nd gear position (none of the other 5 gear positions have any issues)

Make sense?

 

[95six.five]

I start in 2nd too, but gearing actually has nothing to do with it, I'm referring the physical location that the stick sits in when your transmission is in 2nd gear (bottom left). See the body is separated from the from frame 3", this means the shifter itself will be 3" lower than its current position. This is why you need to cut a notch by 2nd gear position (none of the other 5 gear positions have any issues)

Make sense?

Yeah, i just didnt know if you meant 2nd(bottom left) or what i consider to be 2nd(top middle). Thanks! i'll have to get to saving once i get through with all my summer stuff..which will be mid-july! i just gotta wait that long

 

[RyanMerrick]

Here's some before and after shots that i promised you of my C2500 Regular Cab Long Bed with the 3" body lift...

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[95six.five]

Here's some before and after shots that i promised you of my C2500 Regular Cab Long Bed with the 3" body lift...

Before

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Sorry that i haven't replied for awhile, i've been at camp since sunday. I think this has made me decide to go for the body lift and small spring spacer to level it. I should be able to run 33's in the front with that setup correct?

 

[RyanMerrick]

Sorry that i haven't replied for awhile, i've been at camp since sunday. I think this has made me decide to go for the body lift and small spring spacer to level it. I should be able to run 33's in the front with that setup correct?

That's what I'm planning to do, I'd be surprised if they didn't fit. I'll be worrying more about tire width...

 

[95six.five]

That's what I'm planning to do, I'd be surprised if they didn't fit. I'll be worrying more about tire width...

Well i'm really wanting to do 33x12.50 because thats what's in the back but before i put the lift on I want to get new rims and tires because for some reason the PO put 16.50x12 rims in the rear with 16's in the front that are narrow. like maybe 16x8. so i wanna try to get Moto Metal 951's in 18x9's all the way around.

 

[oli7494]

Take anything a K1500 or C1500 owner has to say about wheel/tire fitment and lift compatibility with a grain of salt. Your truck has a different frame, suspension, brakes, and wheels than a 1500 and many helpful 1500 owners simply don't fully realize how much this impacts part choices for the HD trucks. Your stock ride height is much higher than a C1500, so if you a add a 3" body lift, expect it to be higher than most body lift pics you see on these forums.

My stock fender height when I purchased my C2500 was 35" in the front and 37.5" in the rear. Now with the 3" body lift, I'm at 38" in the front and 40.5" in the rear (on stock 8 lug wheels and tires). There is a great coil spacer made by Daystar that I plan to install (check Amazon), that offers 1.5" of lift in the front for our trucks. This will bring me to 39.5" in the front, 40.5" in the rear (close enough to level for my taste)

With these fender heights I should have no problem fitting 33-35" tires in the near future

I have a 1999 C2500 burb and planning to do same modification as you.
Do you now have installed 33" or 35" tires? Any rubbing? What are exact tire dimension you installed? Any wheel spacer required to eliminate rubbing?