1997 Sierra C1500 - TX

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jjupiter100

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I've had this truck since Feb. 2001 I think. Most of the things I've done are just general maintenance. Its got a 350.
I first had a flowmaster muffler with dual exhaust put on in probably 2002. That was maybe the first thing I ever had done to it.
The guy put on a single inlet dual outlet muffler and my father-in-law was irritated because I didnt know the difference and he thought they took advantage of me. He was a American Airlines ground crew mechanic.
I got rims (same rims that are still on it) at a flea market with junk tires that went flat in about 2 months for around $600.
About a year later I got a dual in dual out magna flow muffler with dual exhaust dumps put on. I remember that being $600 and the most I'd ever spent in something like that.
I bought a K&N cold air kit and installed it sometime in 2003. I think that was about $275. I was supposed to be saving to buy a house with my wife at the time too. Priorities...

I next bought a Hypertech power programmer for around $300 and put in a 160 degree thermostat.
I knocked out the little beehive looking screen in the MAF sensor to increase airflow. Not sure if that ever helped anything or not.
Put in a 12 disc cd changer and made a custom wood console that helped conceal it too.

That was all back before kids pretty much. Then I didn't have any extra money. All I could afford was maintenance and even that was sporadic sometimes.

My father-in-law helped me drop the trans & replace the rear main seal (can't remember if that's what we did or not) back in 2007 or so.

In 2009 the a/c went out and I had dreams of turning this truck into something fast & special and didn't want to spend money on new a/c if I was going to be getting a big new engine, etc. So I used an a/c bypass pulley for about 6-7 years. It was kinda miserable in the Texas summers, but I managed. I could no longer manage last year and so I replaced everything and now have nice cool a/c.

Also, back in 2009-2010 timeframe I started having some real bad engine woes. After it was all said and done I think the main culprit was the EGR. I removed stuff down to the lower intake and replaced a lot. That was the most involved I had gotten to that point. It was there that I learned to take caution when removing the dizzy. Once it was all put back together and wouldn't run right, I bought a scan tool & their software to see what my cam retard offset was. Got lucky after sticking the dizzy back in only like twice and it ran perfectly.
 
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J_lope82

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I've had this truck since Feb. 2001 I think. Most of the things I've done are just general maintenance.
I bought a K&N cold air kit and installed it sometime in 2003.
I first had a flowmaster muffler with dual exhaust put on in probably 2002. That was maybe the first thing I ever had done to it.
The guy put on a single inlet dual outlet muffler and my father-in-law was irritated because I didnt know the difference and he thought they took advantage of me. He was a mechanic.
About a year later I got a dual in dual out magna flow muffler with dual exhaust dumps put on. I remember that being $600 and the most I'd ever spent in something like that.
You live and you learn. At least you spent the money on something you like.
 

jjupiter100

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jjupiter100

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I also have a 99 GMC suburban K1500. They both decided to take a crap on me a few weeks ago. And so I broke down and sent my truck to the shop to get worked on. It would start fine, but after running it for a little bit, maybe even 20 minutes it would not start again after turning it off. I first got the battery tested and it was fine. I next had starter tested and it was fine. So I then had alternator tested and it was fine. All 3 parts were fine but truck wouldn't start after being hot (or so I thought). Took it to a local Chevy dealership because I haven't been satisfied with other local shops.
Turns out it was a bad positive battery bolt and it was arcing. After $139 diagnostic fee and a $5.00 bolt, it was set to go.
I knew that it had been having some type of oil leak for the last 6-7 years but it was not bad at all. Maybe 1 quart every year (I don't drive it a whole lot - maybe 8k miles/year). So they traced it to an oil pan gasket leak and distributor gasket leak.
There was also a transmission leak, but I can't even remember what it was. I've tried to block most of that from memory since the total bill was $2,700!
They also replaced the passenger side door latch which I had asked them to fix. Because I tried replacing it 1 1/2 years ago and it was a huge pain. I just couldn't get my arm into the little hole and thought I'd have to take the entire window unit out just to reach.
I've gotten fairly good at replacing door lock actuators, but the opening was just so dang small. So I let them do it.
I would have taken too much time for me to work on everything and I just needed it done. Especially because the burb's (nicknaming Wet Dog) a/c compressor seized on me the same time all this other crap was going on.
The dealership also tells me about how badly my front end is doing and I asked them for a quote of what was needed and how much. They told me $2,400 and I said thanks but no thanks.
So that's my current project. Never been into a front end before. Bought a few new tools this weekend (ball joint separator & pitman arm puller).

I got the passenger side taken apart yesterday.
having trouble popping the bolts from the pitman arm & idler arm to whatever crossbar they connect to.
 

jjupiter100

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Do I have to buy the huge upper & lower control arms? Or do they have units that weigh less that are more of just a round bar?
Not looking to lower or lift and just want OE or performance grade stuff.

Same type of question for shocks & springs. What do you guys recommend?
 

DaltonB98

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It would start fine, but after running it for a little bit, maybe even 20 minutes it would not start again after turning it off. I first got the battery tested and it was fine. I next had starter tested and it was fine. So I then had alternator tested and it was fine. All 3 parts were fine but truck wouldn't start after being hot (or so I thought). Took it to a local Chevy dealership because I haven't been satisfied with other local shops.
Turns out it was a bad positive battery bolt and it was arcing. After $139 diagnostic fee and a $5.00 bolt, it was set to go.
So your truck would start and run fine when it was cold, and after it warmed up for a little bit it would die on you? And that's was the only problem to it was the battery bolt? My dad has been having a similar issue on his 98 dodge and he hasn't been able to figure it out for months. Might have to have him check this out so I can get my second car back and stop spending 80$ a week on gas.
 

jjupiter100

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So your truck would start and run fine when it was cold, and after it warmed up for a little bit it would die on you? And that's was the only problem to it was the battery bolt? My dad has been having a similar issue on his 98 dodge and he hasn't been able to figure it out for months. Might have to have him check this out so I can get my second car back and stop spending 80$ a week on gas.
Yep, that was it.
 

jjupiter100

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Finished getting the passenger side shock and spring out. Had to buy a 24mm socket to tackle the LCA nuts. Will work on that tomorrow.

Also need to start figuring out what I want to buy.
Made a list of parts and comparison chart. Looking to go with Rock Auto.

Not sure about the Mevotech front end kit they sell though. Mevotech looks to be economy grade and I want the good stuff.

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