1987 Chevy R20 3+3

[Half Assed]

Bought this a few weeks ago for $1300.

It's an 87 R20 (C20) Silverado 3+3 crew longbed with a 350tbi, TH400, and a 14bff.

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Had major stumbling issues, like really bad timing or low fuel pressure. I could tell the engine ran good besides the stumbling, so I bought it anyways.

Was running good enough to go 75mph when I left, but it was barely going 20 when I got to my house. Uh oh.

It puked out 2 quarts of oil in 40 miles, terrible idle, stalling at lights, and cutting out when you gave it throttle.

 

[Half Assed]

Now I figure out what's making it run so bad and put a new timing cover gasket on it.

My buddy who likes tbi stuff came over and pulled codes, but there was nothing that was useful. IIRC it was a code 42 that is thrown when the timing connector is disconnected.

I started by replacing the plastic connector for the MAP sensor that was all busted up with a used one in good shape.

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Fuel pressure measured 13psi, so that pretty much ruled out the fuel pump.

Finished an EGR delete the PO didn't finish.

Vacuum measured between 15-20 pounds at the MAP sensor with the stumbly idle.

Fuel spray pattern looked okay. Probably could be better, but it would still run great with a worse pattern that I have.

Went ahead a cleaned the TBI with a gasket kit, new fuel pressure regulator. IAC passage was a little dirty, but it was definitely cleaned within the past few years.

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Pic with the maxipad

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Washed it.

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Vacuumed it. The truck is pretty much all original. Almost zero rust, just beat after 28 years.

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[95C1500]

Nice truck! Love these!

 

[Half Assed]

Still running terrible.

I broke the IACV when I took it off, so I bought a new one of those.

I started throwing parts at it and bought an ignition control module. Which sort of helped. It kinda felt like it was running better.


Then I bought a timing light and got very confused.

Everything online says unplug the ESC connector and set the timing to 0. Plug it back in and the computer will do the rest.

I spent way to much time trying to get it to run with the distributor set to 0 timing. I checked the TDC mark on the balancer thinking maybe the timing cover or balancer was changed with the wrong ones, or maybe the balancer slipped. It ran worse. Idled, but wouldn't rev at all.

I pulled the valve cover off and the mark on the balancer passes by the mark on the timing cover about 1/2way through the time the both valves are closed on cylinder #1. I reasonably believe that the balancer and timing cover are correct.

Initially before changing anything it was set to about 20 degrees advanced at idle. I couldn't figure out how the computer could advance the timing 35+ degrees for WOT with it set to 0, so I set base timing around 10-12 degrees and it ran much better. About the same as when I started. The timing was very jumpy I suspected it had something to do with the cheap distributor someone put in it.

I found a nice OEM disty from a wrecked '95 wit 107k on it for $10 at the junkyard and dropped it in. Much better. Most of the stumbling is gone. Still has hesitation problems, but I think it's due to the rear brakes dragging.

 

[Half Assed]

Found a bumper off a '76 C10 at the junkyard that I painted white.

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Has a bender in it that I need to try pulling out though.

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The doors didn't close tight. They were all missing the striker bushings which I replaced with some 1/2" PEX.

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The door locks didn't work, turned out to be bad switches.

Some of the power windows didn't work either...

yup, that will do it:

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I was able to bump over the wires to get all the windows closed for now.

Also working on the interior a little. Replacing the missing pull straps with some pieces of chain.

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[Half Assed]

I also got some 12" dog dish hubcaps for it. I love the original hubcaps.

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The radiator also sprung a leak that the PO tried patching with JB weld.

Hopefully the rad I got from advance for $115 (thank you $40 off coupon!) doesn't start leaking. The original was a nice copper radiator. I won't replace it until the oil leak is fixed.


Trying to figure out why the rear brakes are dragging.

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I'm not that experienced with drums, but nothing was leaking. Just adjusted wayyyyyyyyyyyy too tight. I guess I will find out if the adjusters are broken when I put the tires back on and drive it around.

Did I mention 14 bolt full float drums suck ass?


Spare mounted back under the bed instead of sitting in the bed.

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Painted the front wheels white. Got some overspray on the tires though that I need to clean off. It was windy here this weekend.

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[Half Assed]

I'm thinking it needs 2" coil spacers...

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2.5" higher

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Started taking apart the front end of the engine tonight to replace the timing cover and pan gasket. I hope the pan won't be too hard to take off. The crossmember is right in the way.

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[Half Assed]

timing cover was bent

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had to remove the oil pan to get the timing cover off

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it had a new cloyes timing set on it

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new crank seal

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I'm doing a serpentine belt conversion from a 90s TBI truck; new idler, w/p, belt tensioner. I still need to pick up the bracket and parts for the other side of the engine.

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[Half Assed]

2" coil spacers

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before

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after

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[DRAGGIN95]

Nice project, I have had a couple of those. Tough trucks.