10 to 14 bolt SF swap - Quick Questions

[df2x4]

I like the "keep it simple" approach you went with from the beginning, personally. Same reason I'm looking for a rare 454SS five lug 14 bolt, everything will just go together so damn easy.

 

[DeucesAllin]

Exactly, I never intended on swapping the 10 bolt but mostly because I never expected to find the donor truck but here it is... That and upgrading to larger drums and a G80 sounds appealing.

I feel I'm happy with the 3.73's actually. I rarely take the tach past 2500 rpm.. The truck sees a lot of freeway action and sports stock wheels & tires. Since it's a 4x4 I'd have to regear the front too and I was looking to nab the rear, send it to the shop down the street, get it back, do the brakes myself and then throw it on.

I suck pretty bad with a cutoff wheel and haven't used a torch in probably 15 years. Pretty much a novice who knows just enough to be.. umm I'll leave that for anyone's interpretation haha. That's one of the reasons I typically don't get involved in "big" jobs as past experience shows they snowball and the last thing you want to do is get into a project with what was supposed to be a DD.

Dude...unless that shop works for free: get a gmt 800 SF (4.11s!) and it will bolt in.

After changing the fluids and yoke, your into it less than a shop will charge to TOUCH a 14 bolt.

check the seals and gears at the yard...change the fluid at home: run it.

I buy them here with 6mo warranty for around $600 into the back of my truck. $300 if i sweat it out.

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[DerekTheGreat]

I'm happy with the 3.73's! Plus I'd have to do the front axle if I ever wanted to use 4x4 again.. Don't have that kind of cash right now and this was supposed to be a beater throw away truck...

That makes sense. I at least want this pig sand blasted, it's krusty. How do you check seals, if they aren't leaking/haven't left residue they're good?

Wow yeah, I have to snag this then. As long as I have help I'll be getting it come sunday. Hell, maybe even if I don't have help I'll try to get it..

 

[DerekTheGreat]

Well, seems it's no good. Both axle shafts turned but I couldn't get them to spin by turning the yoke or both wheels together in the same direction. Decided to take cover off. It was dry yet it seemed I was the first to pop the cover's cherry as it required a pry bar. Rotating the axles made crunchy sounds, housing is dry, the magnet is full of shavings and it smelled burnt.. Seems to me that if it was drained the metal bits would still have oil residue on them right? NFC. I'll hang around here for 15 minutes in hope that one of you guys says this is normal..

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[Jared Jackson]

Well, seems it's no good. Both axle shafts turned but I couldn't get them to spin by turning the yoke or both wheels together in the same direction. Decided to take cover off. It was dry yet it seemed I was the first to pop the cover's cherry as it required a pry bar. Rotating the axles made crunchy sounds, housing is dry, the magnet is full of shavings and it smelled burnt.. Seems to me that if it was drained the metal bits would still have oil residue on them right? NFC. I'll hang around here for 15 minutes in hope that one of you guys says this is normal..

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This is the one they are asking 100 bucks for? Obviously, you are not going to be able to bolt this straight in and drive away... the dry housing would concern me a bit. If you have the budget/plan to completely rebuild this unit, I say grab it for 100 bucks, you are already there.
At that price point, you are basically paying for the housing to build you own rear end.

 

[Jared Jackson]

Well, seems it's no good. Both axle shafts turned but I couldn't get them to spin by turning the yoke or both wheels together in the same direction. Decided to take cover off. It was dry yet it seemed I was the first to pop the cover's cherry as it required a pry bar. Rotating the axles made crunchy sounds, housing is dry, the magnet is full of shavings and it smelled burnt.. Seems to me that if it was drained the metal bits would still have oil residue on them right? NFC. I'll hang around here for 15 minutes in hope that one of you guys says this is normal..

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may be a good time to negotiate a little cheaper since it is bone dry and "crunchy".

 

[DerekTheGreat]

Theres no negotiating, all rear axles are $100 (drummies) whether they work or not. I'll probably pass. I was looking for something like Deuce said; drain, replace seals & such where needed, refill, sand blast, refurb brakes, swap in and drive. Guess it would be one thing if my 10 bolt was dead but it's still at 100%. I only brought my impact, didn't think I'd need my breaker bar but couldn't get the 4 of the 8 u-bolts to budge. Would mean another trip if I really wanted the axle but it's really just one of those "nice to haves."

So, that 14 sounds smoked to you guys though, right? I want to know what to keep in mind should I spot another one..

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[Steve A]

Use a battery powered grinder with a cut-off wheel on the u-bolts. New ones don't cost that much and are a lot easier to wrench down.

 

[TexasT]

It's a wrecking yard, everything I negotiable. If it isn't move along to a place that is. Where you can get the deal you want.

You did bring cash didn't you?
And if they wont negotiate, you aren't dealing with the right guy/girl.

 

[Jared Jackson]

It's a wrecking yard, everything I negotiable. If it isn't move along to a place that is. Where you can get the deal you want.

You did bring cash didn't you?
And if they wont negotiate, you aren't dealing with the right guy/girl.

hah, just got the find the one who pockets the cash anyway...