10 bolt retaining pin

[98_k1500]

Anyone here ever broken the differential cross shaft retaining pin on a eaton locker 10 bolt? I have destroyed 4 3.73 ratio 10 bolts because this pin broke. The pin itself costs $2.99, but when the cross shaft falls out, the damage can be catastrophic. Mine broke again over the weekend, but i heard some rear end noise and figured thats what happened and parked the truck. Pulled the pan and the cross shaft was walking out again. Anyone ever tack welded the cross shaft in one of these? Im looking for a 14 bolt anyway but i hate to kill another 10 bolt over a $3 part. Any ideas/concerns with doing this other than trying to get it back out one day?

 

[someotherguy]

It's a somewhat common failure; recommendation is to replace the bolt each time you change the gear oil in the rear end. Most people never change the gear oil though...

Sometimes when you go in to do this service you find that it's already broken, just hasn't slipped out yet. There are kits available specifically for removing the broken bolt, essentially a long drill bit and a couple extractors.

Richard

 

[98_k1500]

I already got my old one out. Im just looking for a little more permanent fix. If the rear end goes down again, its probably getting scrapped anyway. I think im gonna install the new retainer pin for alignment and tack weld the cross shaft to the carrier. I cant really see any downside to doing this. I could always grind the tack welds back off if i just have to.

 

[IOWNJUNK]

I would agree, I don't see a downside to this either. Not a solid weld all the way around the shaft, but a decent size tack weld on both ends where you can grind it off if needed. Replace the bolt as well. I have seen a few broken like you describe, but they were all 100,000mi+ rears and the bolt never came out, just broke off and stayed in place, or broke off and the pin never came out.

 

[98_k1500]

Its gettin tacked in later this afternoon. Im ready to have my baby back and not have to worry about it anymore.

 

[someotherguy]

It seems a little crazy and unnecessary to me. When you replace the bolt with a new one, it's going to go a loooooong time before it breaks again. Even if you don't go in and change the gear oil and replace the bolt every now and then, you're very unlikely to ever suffer this failure again. But if you do go in there and change it every once in a great while...extremely cheap insurance against failure.

Richard

 

[Ruger_556]

Just loctite a new bolt in... Welding the pin seems excessive.

 

[michael hurd]

With excessive spinning, the spider gears can wear into the pin, galling it. Once this starts, it's not hard for the pin to break the bolt off, and eject the pin through the housing spectacularly, as the spider gear can momentarily weld itself to the pin, when one wheel is stopped and the other is spinning 2x indicated speed.

Loctite is sufficient to hold the retainer bolt in.

Change your driving style, do a bit of preventive maintenance by draining the pig once a year, having a look inside, and use good gear oils. If you feel the need, throw a small amount of weld on it. Remember spinning your truck at even 50 mph with one wheel peel, the one tire is doing 100mph or 146.667 feet per second, or a staggering 1760 inches per second.

On that small surface ( 0.795" diameter) you have just under 2.5 inches circumference. That works out to some 42,240 RPM.

 

[IOWNJUNK]

Lotsa numbers, but makes sense.

 

[98_k1500]

I welded it in yesterday. I don't drive this truck excessively hard. The pin is not galled at all and i use good gear oil. I'm not sure why this is a continual problem for me but maybe it'll act right now. Maybe the replacement retainer pins are not as good quality as the factory one.