1991 Chevrolet C1500, the gas saver

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redfishsc

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I had a 1990 "Silverado" (with badge to prove it) standard cab, longbed with the 5spd that had the 4.3, got a legitimate 20mpg highway if I kept my foot out of the throttle. I put a lot of highway miles on that truck.
 

kennythewelder

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I had my bed Line-X ed yesterday. It was coated with a sealer, so it will look grate for a long time, no faded bed linner for me. The guy at Line-x said that the paint may come off when they remove the tape, because of the cheep paint job I have. I said, well if it does, I will just have to fix it. Well it did. I think the Lne-x guy was more upset than I was. So my bed looks grate, but I have some paint work to do now. Im still very happy with the bed. Its Line-x. That is the best there is.
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Next steps:
* Find some wider (8"+) rims
* Repaint (at least the hood and top of cab)
* Bed liner
Do the bed liner first, before the paint. I had mine Line-x ed about 2 weeks ago. I had the truck painted in 2013. Now it was a cheep paint job, but when they pulled the tape off after doing the bed liner, it pulled paint with it. They did warn me about this first. The reason this happened to mine was not only because of the paint job, but also because they use razor tape. It has a ribbon of sharp wire in it, so that when they remove the wire, it cuts the bed liner, and leaves a clean line. So the base tape has to be extra sticky so that when they pull the wire, the base tape doesn't come off as well, from what I understand. I know that blue painters tape, will not peal off my paint. I have tried it. Click the attachments @ the top thread for the pics of my truck, and peeled off paint.
 

kennythewelder

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As for the 4.3 Vs the 5.3 Vs the 5.7L debate, I had a 93 WT with a 4.3L and I loved it. It gives good fuel millage, and if you just want something to run around in, its grate for that. As long as your not pulling any thing to big, or loading the bed to heavy, the 4.3L is just fine. At the time, I had a small boat, and the 93 did good with that. You can improve the millage a little, by installing a free flowing muffler, and a high flow cat, or gutting, or removing the cat. I was working offshore (welding) at the time, and I was getting 22 MPG on the highway and about 16 in town. I ran 60 tires on it, and the truck had 342s in the rear end.
 

TravisR

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It gives good fuel millage, and if you just want something to run around in, its grate for that. As long as your not pulling any thing to big, or loading the bed to heavy, the 4.3L is just fine.

That's exactly what I want in this, just a daily driver. I have the K2500 with a 5.7 in it for pulling or hauling stuff. I'll end up having less than $6K total in both trucks.

My second vehicle ever was a 4.3L with a 5 speed, and even as a 17 year old I was satisfied with its power. I'm really just looking for good gas mileage while still getting to drive a GMT400. Even if I can average 18 mpg in the V6, it will save me nearly $200/year over the 13.9 mpg I get in the K2500 (calculator for comparing fuel costs).
 

Mule89

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With the architecture of the engine, It has a longer skirt on the block and they have the exhaust and intake set to EIEIEI instead of the traditional EIIEEIIE keeps the engine cooler and more balanced. The intake is much more improved as well. It also has hypertonic aluminum pistons and aluminum heads. the V6 weighs the same with all its iron everything. Also, I learned over the years that a V6 should not be in a full size truck. I have two uncles. On had a 1990 chevy C1500 5.7 700R4. It was always loaded with tools and junk. It got 15 mpg. My other uncle with a 1991 C1500 V6. empty truck got 14 mpg. My truck at the time was still stock 1993 with the 5.7L and NV3500 got 17mpg to 18 depending on how I drove. I feel the V6 is not strong enough to move the truck around efficiently. My 2007 GMC C1500 crew cab SLT gets 17 city and 20.5 highway (from the DIC(Driver Information Center)).

I understand that keeping your truck stock is cool but if your looking for econ and affordability then go with the 5.3. even if you get a 4.8 you can later take 5.3 crank and rods and keep the 4.8 pistons and have you a H.O. 5.3L. It not hard to get a LS style engine and computer and wire it to be a stand alone system. If your interested I have 5 books in my possession on swapping one in anything. I don't mind sharing the info.
Bump on that I have 2.8 S10 (3800lbs) it takes forever for it to get to 60mph. It is about weight too. I know my 1989 C1500 could get about 18mpg Highway 15mpg city. I always wanted a low strip down W/T single cab short bed with a 5 speed and a 5.7 would get really good mileage because you would be in the throttle less.
 

kennythewelder

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That's exactly what I want in this, just a daily driver. I have the K2500 with a 5.7 in it for pulling or hauling stuff. I'll end up having less than $6K total in both trucks.

My second vehicle ever was a 4.3L with a 5 speed, and even as a 17 year old I was satisfied with its power. I'm really just looking for good gas mileage while still getting to drive a GMT400. Even if I can average 18 mpg in the V6, it will save me nearly $200/year over the 13.9 mpg I get in the K2500 (calculator for comparing fuel costs).
I sold my 93 WT 4.3L in 2009. I had it for 10 years. I was working offshore at the time, and a co worker wanted the truck. I had my wifes 97 Silverado 3 door 5.7L and I wanted it, when the trans in my 93 went out @ 285000 miles. I let my 93 go for $500, but like I said he was a co worker. When he got the truck, he had the trans rebuilt. When he fixed the truck, he wanted to know what I had done to the truck. He could not believe the power it had for a V 6. He said, man at 80 MPH its like it catches another gear. Torque converter lock up. All I did was replace the muffler, and remove the cat. That truck always ran good. It never was a powerful as my 97, but still a great driver. Here is a pic of the 93.
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Blackwater

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Bump on that I have 2.8 S10 (3800lbs) it takes forever for it to get to 60mph. It is about weight too. I know my 1989 C1500 could get about 18mpg Highway 15mpg city. I always wanted a low strip down W/T single cab short bed with a 5 speed and a 5.7 would get really good mileage because you would be in the throttle less.

My 1993 SCSB Stock had 5.7L NV3500 MG5 10bolt 8.5 ring with 3.08 gears and 235/75R15. Got 18 MPG empty truck.

Currently, it has the stock 5.7L swapped NV4500MW3 with Gearvendors under/overdrive 14bolt SF 9.5 ring 3.73 gears and 245/70R17 aluminum Yukon rims from a 2007. My best now is 19.5 empty truck.

I took weight penalty when swapping from the aluminum NV3500 to the Iron NV4500 and the addition of the second aluminum tranny and bigger diff.

As soon as I get back to the USA I will start on the LQ4 teardown. I have been deciding on if I should change rear diff gears to 3.42:1. Its 10% on the top. Im not hurting on the bottom now since I went from a 12.38:1 final gear with first in the NV3500 with the 3.08 diff to a 20.93:1 in first and 11.34:1 with second with the 3.73 diff. I use second gear when not towing. Top side of it, 2.25:1 final ratio with the NV3500 with the 3.08 diff to 2.12 final with the NV4500 + Gearvendors and the 3.73 diff. With a 3.42 diff I would have 19.19:1 in first, 10.40:1 in second and a top ratio of 1.95 with the current setup. If I do the diff change it would be after the LQ4 402 stroker swap. The 5.7 currently has 212hp@4000/300Lb.ft@2800. when finished with the engine it will have 600+hp and 550+Lb.ft of torque. I think the engine torque can offset the diff re-gearing. I most likely wont be gearing down on hills.
 

Mule89

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My 1993 SCSB Stock had 5.7L NV3500 MG5 10bolt 8.5 ring with 3.08 gears and 235/75R15. Got 18 MPG empty truck.

Currently, it has the stock 5.7L swapped NV4500MW3 with Gearvendors under/overdrive 14bolt SF 9.5 ring 3.73 gears and 245/70R17 aluminum Yukon rims from a 2007. My best now is 19.5 empty truck.

I took weight penalty when swapping from the aluminum NV3500 to the Iron NV4500 and the addition of the second aluminum tranny and bigger diff.

As soon as I get back to the USA I will start on the LQ4 teardown. I have been deciding on if I should change rear diff gears to 3.42:1. Its 10% on the top. Im not hurting on the bottom now since I went from a 12.38:1 final gear with first in the NV3500 with the 3.08 diff to a 20.93:1 in first and 11.34:1 with second with the 3.73 diff. I use second gear when not towing. Top side of it, 2.25:1 final ratio with the NV3500 with the 3.08 diff to 2.12 final with the NV4500 + Gearvendors and the 3.73 diff. With a 3.42 diff I would have 19.19:1 in first, 10.40:1 in second and a top ratio of 1.95 with the current setup. If I do the diff change it would be after the LQ4 402 stroker swap. The 5.7 currently has 212hp@4000/300Lb.ft@2800. when finished with the engine it will have 600+hp and 550+Lb.ft of torque. I think the engine torque can offset the diff re-gearing. I most likely wont be gearing down on hills.
That will be a cool swap for sure
 

Blackwater

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That will be a cool swap for sure

Yes it would. I only mentioned the build because of gas savings. With the direction I am going, I will not be saving any money to compensate for the fuel savings. But the fun factor. I feel he would save as much on fuel and have some juice with a 5.3L or even an 4.8L.
 

Mule89

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Yes it would. I only mentioned the build because of gas savings. With the direction I am going, I will not be saving any money to compensate for the fuel savings. But the fun factor. I feel he would save as much on fuel and have some juice with a 5.3L or even an 4.8L.
Right I know what you mean. I am actually working on putt a Redneck turbo system on my truck for fun. I am curious to see what kind of mileage I will be getting. I also thought a turbo 4.3 would have plenty of get up and go while getting good gas mileage. But all these ideas cost money. Making a regular old stock setup better for most budgets.
 
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