SAS Questions

thz71 · Nov 30, 2017

Eskimomann209 said:
Oh? So you know then that the inner shaft on the GM10 bolt is larger. And also you know there are a few different spline counts on the GM10 bolt as well . And SURELY you know that the ring gear on the 10 bolt is larger than the D44 right?
I mean you must, being so knowledgeable and all
How many 4x4 rigs have you built?
How many 4 links and general SAS? Where do you wheel?
They’re both good axles why reccomend 1 Ton axles when most people don’t even utilize them
What’s the usage of the rig?
Most people want big tires and a street queen
This isn’t pirate4x and If it was these answers would be flamed
There was no tech provided as to why the GM10 bolt was weaker
Only OPINION

Oh boy here we go. So many incorrect assumptions in your butt hurt post. 1st a few different spline counts? Try 2. Ring gear is marginally bigger on the 10 bolt but negligable. The housing is stronger on the 44. Most of the shafts on both axles are 30 spline but there are 28 spline 10 bolts. I've built more trucks than you I can assure you that just by reading your started threads. Also I'm very curious as to where I said the 10 bolt was weaker? Care to point it out? Oh nevermind just another assumption on your part. Did I say the 10 bolt was junk? Yep. Would I run a 44 either? Nope. I wheel at places you've never heard of. No over populated trails that have been ran 2 million times before I got there. But I can tell you I've wheeled with TTC winners before. Come wheel with me. I'd be glad to have ya. Always funny to watch the overly confident guy who is better than everyone else lead the way.

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TKerr · Dec 7, 2017

98silveraydo said:
Ive been looking for a Ford Dana 44 but I've kinda given up as Corporate 10 bolts are a lot easier to find. They're on the passenger side though and Id have to get a new transfer case so the question is how does the transfer case and transmission bolt up and also what would happen to my manual 4x4?

First question is what are you going to use the truck for? Second question is what; if any, mods do you want to do later down the line?

To answer your question yes you can do a corporate 10 with a np205 or similar Tcase with an adaptor or even go with running gear out of an old older shoebox.
With that said I personally would not run a corporate 10 or Dana 44, but that is my preference from 13+ trucks I have built and wheeled from Utah and Colorado trials to Texas and Lousiana marsh and gumbo.

There are a couple of good links and threads on here that can guide you however you decide. You can contact Steve with Off-road design and he can guide you with any question and concern and will be blunt and honest. He has built more of these trucks than anyone I know.

Also look at buying an entire solid axle truck. I used a 1992 1ton single wheel donor truck for mine that had a blown engine. Paid 500 for truck and parted it out when done and made 1000 parts. Just food for thought.

With that said, good luck with your build and take your time and build it the way you want to begin with.

98silveraydo · Dec 30, 2017

TKerr said:
First question is what are you going to use the truck for? Second question is what; if any, mods do you want to do later down the line?

To answer your question yes you can do a corporate 10 with a np205 or similar Tcase with an adaptor or even go with running gear out of an old older shoebox.
With that said I personally would not run a corporate 10 or Dana 44, but that is my preference from 13+ trucks I have built and wheeled from Utah and Colorado trials to Texas and Lousiana marsh and gumbo.

There are a couple of good links and threads on here that can guide you however you decide. You can contact Steve with Off-road design and he can guide you with any question and concern and will be blunt and honest. He has built more of these trucks than anyone I know.

Also look at buying an entire solid axle truck. I used a 1992 1ton single wheel donor truck for mine that had a blown engine. Paid 500 for truck and parted it out when done and made 1000 parts. Just food for thought.

With that said, good luck with your build and take your time and build it the way you want to begin with.

I don’t go off-roading much and if I do, it’s not hard. Really just want a sfa for style and looks. Won’t be running anything bigger than 37s. Less to worry about maintenance wise. I would rather have a Dana 44 so I might just wait. Plus the guy I was going to get the 10 bolt from sold it just a couple of hours before I called

I can be patient

JLG88 · Apr 11, 2018

I am designing and fabricating my crossmember for my SAS. I based it on the design of the W Style crossmember from the 87 square body trucks. And I’m using an NP208 with the Tom woods SYE and a double cardon drive shaft from Tom woods. The 208 will hang down below frame unless you can clock the transfer case.

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bornchevy · Apr 12, 2018

98silveraydo said:
Ive been looking for a Ford Dana 44 but I've kinda given up as Corporate 10 bolts are a lot easier to find. They're on the passenger side though and Id have to get a new transfer case so the question is how does the transfer case and transmission bolt up and also what would happen to my manual 4x4?

This is copied from the company that I got my brackets from, I pulled my passenger drop NP241 from 89 Suburban, bolts right up to my 5l60m. Hope this helps, there is more info on there website about NP205's and whatnot.

Swapping to a passenger side transfer case to use a GM/Dodge axle:
If you're using a GM or Dodge front axle, you'll need to change the transfer case to one that sets the driveshaft on the passenger side. The transmission does need to be the 4WD version so 2WD transmissions will need to be converted. Adding in any of our gear reduction systems is relatively easy, give use a call to discuss those options. Swap info for a single transfer case is as follows, there are three main options:

GM NP208:
This is an easy option because it has the same bolt pattern as the 88-98 transmissions and is a fairly durable transfer case using up to 37" tires.

If you have a 700R4/4L60E, you'll want to find an NP208 from behind a 700R4 and those came in most 81-87 Chevy 1/2 tons (88 Suburbans and Blazers too!), these will have a 27 spline input. Those will bolt right in, the only issue is the 208's use a cable driven speedometer and the 4L60E needs an electric speed signal to shift correctly. That can be solved by installing an adapter that creates an electric signal from the cable drive, you can also put a manual valve body in the trans.

If you have a 4L80E or any of the manual transmissions, you'll need to find an NP208 from a TH400 or an SM465 four speed manual, those will have a 32 spline input. Again, the NP208 will bolt right up in place of the factory transfer case. The 4L80E will need an electric vehicle speed sensor or a manual valve body, the manuals will only need an electric speed sensor if you want the OE speedometer to work.

GM NP241:Another easy option because it bolts right up in place of the factory transfer case on the 88-98's, same duty level as the 208. NP241's came in 89-91 Blazers and Suburbans and they are passenger drop, the 1989 models have a cable driven speedometer just like the 208.

The 90 and 91 models, however, use an electric speed sensor in them from the factory so this makes them a very desirable case for solid axle conversions, though they aren't as common as the 208.

The 241 is the same story as the 208, if you have a 700R4/4L60E, look for a 241 from a 700R4.

If you have a 4L80E or any of the manual transmissions, look for a 241 from behind a TH400.

SAS Questions

thz71

Stock SUCKS!

TKerr

OBS Enthusiast

98silveraydo

I'm Awesome

JLG88

OBS Enthusiast

bornchevy

I'm Awesome

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