Vortec cam and tune

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cookseyb

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I wouldn't but that is just me. If you are going to all the trouble and expense of installing a cam, with just a few more steps you could freshen the whole engine and be done with it. I do my own work so I hate TO REPEAT STEPS. You can get a tool from JEGS to do the valve guides yourself. get a good set of Crane springs, find a good machine shop and get a good 3 angle valve job. Get a rebuild kit from Northern Performance, take a coupla extra days and have a engine good for another 160,000. FWIW
 

slowburb

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You can change the cam just be aware you are limites to about.500 lift without machining the valve guides. LT4 Hot Cam is a good start..

This is 100% WRONG. Not slightly, or occasionally, but ALWAYS, 100% WRONG. There are numerous trick valve spring setups that allow .550" valve lift without machining or grinding on the heads ever. These are drop in spring/retainer/lock setups that work perfectly fine.

The LT4 hot cam is really designed for a different induction system than the L31/vortec setup, and fares way better in a lighter vehicle than in a big heavy truck. The 2 piece L31 intake manifold becomes a major bottleneck for airflow above 5000 rpm, and the LT4 hot cam can make power up to 7000 rpm, so you'd be leaving a LOT of power potential on the table. This means there are more suitable cam profiles than this one given the combination of parts you're trying to make work together.
 

cookseyb

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You are correct, But I have a mill and the tooling, I do it because it is cheaper for me and I'm not limited by spring diameter(I also open up the spring seats) and can run dual springs with dampers etc. For some reason i thought he was working on a LT1 when I suggested the hot cam. I prefer to use Howards Cams on SBC and they will help you select a cam for your needs as will others. Again that is just me. Sorry if I created some confusion.
 

Supercharged111

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I did the marine cam with 1.6s and had clearance, but where I gained clearance was by installing new valve seals and pounding them on until they stopped. I'd be interested in whatever drop in spring/retainer combo there is out there as I may drop in an LT1 cam once I'm boosted.
 

Jrgunn5150

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Mrich0908

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The money spent on machine work to just have a slightly better head just isnt worth it these days. I just went through this.
I spent 450-500$ on my Assault aluminum heads (dart pro1 aluminum knock offs) they are highly talked about by a few head porters and the third gen community loves them. Ive had no problems with mine .
Another 100 for comp cams stainless steel 2.02 1.6 valves , 70$ on LS9 beehive spings, 20 bucks on studs 40 on pushrods. Lap your valves no machine work
Point being for few more bucks you can have a head that will make great power and support future goals.
If your going to do heads and cam I would freshen your motor up . New bearing , dingle hone the cylinder rings pistons bearings. Make your foundation strong before you build your house.
 
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