First real test drive today, after V8 swap.

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DeCaff2007

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I didn't disconnect the knock sensor. I did, however, unplug the advance bypass wire and bumped the timing just a hair at a time. I went from 8° to 12° and as far as 16° BTDC. It seemed happiest at 12°, but still not perfect. Then, I plugged the bypass wire back in and the ECU took the timing all the way to 23° @ idle. I don't understand that. Why can't I spin the distributor that far and get the same effect?

I still cannot do a burnout. Revving that high with the clutch in and then dumping the clutch will do nothing more than make the engine buck and sputter.

Pushing 1st gear into higher RPMS will make the engine act as if the fuel is cutting out, then I get a backfire.

After 1st gear, I can rev the engine as high as I want (in gear) and it'll run "ok~ish", but I'm still not feeling the power that I think I should have.

So, bumping the timing helped a bit, but it still needs a tune.

With that: I've been reading up on using TunerPro. It seems I need a definition file for my specific [vehicle] computer - in order to communicate with the ALDL and get some live data. Even then, I'm sure I'll have no clue what I'm looking at.

Isn't there a clear-cut tutorial out there on how to tune these 80's junk computers?
 

tayto

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You will need a chip burner to do any tuning. with what you got you will only be able to data log
 

DeCaff2007

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You will need a chip burner to do any tuning. with what you got you will only be able to data log

That's fine. I still, however, need to figure out how to do that. Mr. RCSB is unfortunately on the back burner, for now.
 

tayto

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It is more money, but I would recommend EBL upgrade for your ECU. It is flashed based and still uses Tunerpro to make modifications. It has its own program for datalogging and is more user friendly in general. Again, there will be a steep learning curve especially with TBI as it is a "wet flow" system. Getting the "pump shot" set right is usually the biggest challenge. There are some beginners articles out there but nothing is going to hand hold you through the whole tuning process. This stuff has been out of production for almost 30 years you have to be a DIYer if you want to retain it.


I have no experience with it but maybe a Sniper system would be the way to go here? I personally like the factory stuff, I don't really like the aftermarket EFI stuff. But there is definitely more current "support" for it.
 
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DeCaff2007

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I know what EBL Flash is. I had considered it. Maybe I should re-consider it.

Never wanted to go this haywire with the mods/upgrades but that's how things went.
So, about that steep leaning curve, even if I do manage to figure out the whole Tunerpro thing, how the Hell do I know what to change?
 

DeCaff2007

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I have no experience with it but maybe a Sniper system would be the way to go here? I personally like the factory stuff, I don't really like the aftermarket EFI stuff. But there is definitely more current "support" for it.

So, we tried that on the 300 2bbl on the Buick. That ended up in complete disaster. Adding fuel lines, wiring, and a computer to a vehicle that was never meant to have such things is a complete waste of money and time.

@tayto I read through the Intro to Tuning, parts 1 and 2. o_Oo_O. Not sure I have the brain power for that....... thanks for the links, though.
 

Condor78

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I didn't disconnect the knock sensor. I did, however, unplug the advance bypass wire and bumped the timing just a hair at a time. I went from 8° to 12° and as far as 16° BTDC. It seemed happiest at 12°, but still not perfect. Then, I plugged the bypass wire back in and the ECU took the timing all the way to 23° @ idle. I don't understand that. Why can't I spin the distributor that far and get the same effect?

I still cannot do a burnout. Revving that high with the clutch in and then dumping the clutch will do nothing more than make the engine buck and sputter.

Pushing 1st gear into higher RPMS will make the engine act as if the fuel is cutting out, then I get a backfire.

After 1st gear, I can rev the engine as high as I want (in gear) and it'll run "ok~ish", but I'm still not feeling the power that I think I should have.

So, bumping the timing helped a bit, but it still needs a tune.

With that: I've been reading up on using TunerPro. It seems I need a definition file for my specific [vehicle] computer - in order to communicate with the ALDL and get some live data. Even then, I'm sure I'll have no clue what I'm looking at.

Isn't there a clear-cut tutorial out there on how to tune these 80's junk computers?
Hey man, FWIW, if you are setting the timing at 8 all the way up to 16 with the bypass unplugged, your computer will pull all sorts of timing out in the mid to full pedal. Your truck should idle max at 16 with the bypass connected. I set mine at 0, even 2 degrees I had some knock on the scanner. This could be a reason you are losing power just in itself. If your computer is cutting your timing back due to the knock, it could very well be sluggish like your prev posts suggest. Your short term fuel and block learn will compensate the fueling, even as much as 30% (not ideal) as 10% is what most tuners shoot for. Anyhow, I bet you will find a lot of this out as soon as you start data logging. I'd fix your timing first thing though and go from there. Some guys have luck with 2-4 degrees w bypass unplugged but like I was saying, on mine, I was getting knock at even 2 degrees. Also, the plugs you are running, which plug, temp range and gap are you running? These 350 tbi dont like hot plugs. I run the R43 in mine. Just some thoughs for you. My history was 67-72 non ecm stuff until I began LS swaps, tuning and 88-98 OBD1 tuning. It's all the same as the old, just sensors that control. Learn it and you'll embrace it. Personally, I love the 0411 stuff myself. Good luck man
 

sewlow

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These 350 tbi don't like hot plugs.
Never had a TBI vehicle. I've had more with carbs than EFI. Both BBC's & SBC's.
Either/or, whenever I bought a vehicle, one of the first things I'd do is a good tune-up.
Whatever the plug that was listed for them, I'd go 2 heat ranges colder.
Installing a colder heat range plug will increase the pre-ignition safety margin. Allows for a bit more advance.
For a spark plug to function properly, it needs a tip temperature high enough to burn off carbon deposits (self-cleaning) and avoid fouling, while remaining low enough so as to not overheat the ceramic firing end, avoiding pre-ignition.
This works even better with alternative fuels. LPG/CNG require lots of advance.
 
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tayto

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Hey man, FWIW, if you are setting the timing at 8 all the way up to 16 with the bypass unplugged, your computer will pull all sorts of timing out in the mid to full pedal. Your truck should idle max at 16 with the bypass connected. I set mine at 0, even 2 degrees I had some knock on the scanner. This could be a reason you are losing power just in itself. If your computer is cutting your timing back due to the knock, it could very well be sluggish like your prev posts suggest. Your short term fuel and block learn will compensate the fueling, even as much as 30% (not ideal) as 10% is what most tuners shoot for. Anyhow, I bet you will find a lot of this out as soon as you start data logging. I'd fix your timing first thing though and go from there. Some guys have luck with 2-4 degrees w bypass unplugged but like I was saying, on mine, I was getting knock at even 2 degrees. Also, the plugs you are running, which plug, temp range and gap are you running? These 350 tbi dont like hot plugs. I run the R43 in mine. Just some thoughs for you. My history was 67-72 non ecm stuff until I began LS swaps, tuning and 88-98 OBD1 tuning. It's all the same as the old, just sensors that control. Learn it and you'll embrace it. Personally, I love the 0411 stuff myself. Good luck man
this isn't a stock TBI
 
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