1991 C1500 in Florida

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FLGS400

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Got the fender lips rolled in the front, tonight. Was a lot easier than I thought it would be. Just used a couple hammers and a body work dolly and slowly worked my way back and forth, until I was happy with it and the area I needed to roll was pretty much flush with the inner structure of the fender. Saw this method in a post on here. Here is what the passenger side looks like now. Had to spray some paint on the inside edge to cover where the hammer took the paint off. I used masking tape over it, but I guess that wasn't enough.

Can't see the black when the wheel is on and on the ground. No (new) wavyness to the fenders either!
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While I was waiting on paint to dry, I installed the interior, overhead LED lights and cover that I got on Amazon. Used Q-tips and window cleaner to clean the inside and outsides of the smaller lenses. Also cleaned up all the electrical contacts. Works pretty good!

Main light:
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All 3 lights:
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In case anyone is interested, here are the links:

www.amazon.com/dp/B0CDKVTH5N?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details

www.amazon.com/dp/B0CKL81PQQ?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&th=1
 

Scooterwrench

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Got the fender lips rolled in the front, tonight. Was a lot easier than I thought it would be. Just used a couple hammers and a body work dolly and slowly worked my way back and forth, until I was happy with it and the area I needed to roll was pretty much flush with the inner structure of the fender. Saw this method in a post on here. Here is what the passenger side looks like now. Had to spray some paint on the inside edge to cover where the hammer took the paint off. I used masking tape over it, but I guess that wasn't enough.
Watched a guy do that once with a wooden baseball bat. Put the car on stands and jacked the control arm up till he had the desired distance between the tire and fender,stuck the bat in there and rotated the wheel. The bat rolled around between the tire and fender and rolled the lip in nice a smooth. He did it in several passes jacking the wheel up a little each time until he got the lip rolled in just the way he wanted it
 

FLGS400

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Watched a guy do that once with a wooden baseball bat. Put the car on stands and jacked the control arm up till he had the desired distance between the tire and fender,stuck the bat in there and rotated the wheel. The bat rolled around between the tire and fender and rolled the lip in nice a smooth. He did it in several passes jacking the wheel up a little each time until he got the lip rolled in just the way he wanted it
Not a bad idea. For some reason, in my head, I just pictured trying to roll the bat through there with the wheels on the ground. That would have made way more sense!
 

FLGS400

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It's been a few days since I monkeyed with the truck. I got out there and spent a couple hours tonight, setting the toe. I use strings pulled taught, tied off to the shelves behind the truck and to jack stands in the front. Making sure to keep the strings 10" up the tires from the floor, I move the jack stands toward the center, until the string touches both sides of the rear tires and either the front or back (or both) of the front tires. This allows me to make sure the steering wheel is straight, by adjusting the tie rods in or out until the string touches both the front and rear of the front tires, on each side. Of course, the steering wheel has to be locked in the straight position. I had to get creative with a long bungee cord, as the steering lock is broken on my truck (project for another day).

I used a toe plate kit that my awesome lady got me for Christmas last year to set the toe. It works great! Started at 74 5/8" at the front of the tire and 74 7/8" at the rear. I adjusted the tie rod sleeves a little at a time, the same on each side, until I came up with 74 3/4" at the front of the tires and 74 13/16 at the rear. This gives me 1/16" toe in, which should be fine until I can get it to a shop for a real alignment. Here's some pics:

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FLGS400

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After dinner last night I didn't feel like watching TV. So, I went out to the garage and decided I was going to figure out why my odometer doesn't work (and never has since I bought it).

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Pulled out the gauge cluster and disassembled it. It was pretty easy to figure out that something broke that holds the gears to the trip meter in place (plastic retaining and alignment piece). This caused the whole odometer assembly to jam up when the gears came out of place. In turn, it burnt up the little drive motor, which also scorched the circuit board. I though it may be easy to fix, until I found the end burned off of one of the capacitors, too. Now I'm thinking I should probably just go find a used Moon gauge cluster for a 1991 (since it seems these were unique), since I'm sure that I won't be able to find any new plastic pieces or replacement circuit boards for this.

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I started another thread to weigh my options on replacement clusters... www.gmt400.com/threads/1988-1994-moon-gauge-compatibility.65861/#post-1380870

Feel free to sent me a message if you have a cluster you wouldn't mind parting ways with!
 
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