Yep, 61 #/Hr @ 13 PSI ones for 5.7LBest I can tell on the injectors
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Yep, 61 #/Hr @ 13 PSI ones for 5.7LBest I can tell on the injectors
@PlayingWithTBI doesn't a crank of 3.750 toss and a rod of 5.7 give you a different cubic inch ratio? Well depends on compression? Not actually utalising the true stroke. Block cleanances have to be machined for the 6.0 rods where 5.7 doesn't? So which is a true 383? Short stroke a 4.030 block with a 5.7 rod and raise the compression? Or use the 6.0 rod for actual total long stroke of a 383? I am thankful for all input. I learning alsoYeah, I was thinking about a pusher fan and keeping the 11 blade, severe duty clutch for my main cooling here in the desert. It does need help at idle.
Look at that again,,, 295 lift intake and 500 exhaust??? Shouldn't that be 495? My 383 has the XR282HR cam with .510/.520 and 230/236 @ .050 for 436HP - dyno proven, just saying...
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a 3.75" stroke by 4.030" bore gives you 383 (mine is actually 377 - 4.00X3.75), a 4.00" bore with 3.80 stroke gives you 383 too. A 6" rod gives you different angles when stroking but, doesn't effect Cu In.So which is a true 383? Short stroke a 4.030 block with a 5.7 rod and raise the compression? Or use the 6.0 rod for actual total long stroke of a 383? I am thankful for all input. I learning also
Best I can tell on the injectors
For what it's worth I was going for the same build (ish). I was told all kinds of things (I needed this, I needed that ect).
I contacted Brian Harris at TBI chips and after sending him my engine build sheet, which had cam specs, he told me that it would be difficult to "burn" a chip that wouldn't be too lean even with the right fuel pump and Regulator.
I ended up going with a Holley sniper bc it has an internal Regulator. Just a thought
a 3.75" stroke by 4.030" bore gives you 383 (mine is actually 377 - 4.00X3.75), a 4.00" bore with 3.80 stroke gives you 383 too. A 6" rod gives you different angles when stroking but, doesn't effect Cu In.
@PlayingWithTBI doesn't a crank of 3.750 toss and a rod of 5.7 give you a different cubic inch ratio? Well depends on compression? Not actually utalising the true stroke. Block cleanances have to be machined for the 6.0 rods where 5.7 doesn't? So which is a true 383? Short stroke a 4.030 block with a 5.7 rod and raise the compression? Or use the 6.0 rod for actual total long stroke of a 383? I am thankful for all input. I learning also
I agree with J1985. You'll be time and money ahead by using a Holley Sniper with that much engine. Yes, you'll have to pull the bed or drop the tank and change your fuel pump for more pressure and do a little wiring but well worth it. The Sniper 2 is out now and you will eventually be able to control auto trans with the module to be released.tbi no more 383 need to go with a holley or something like it if you have a automatic if it is a manual you can go carb dont waste you time on the tbi you payed good money for a 383 than dont hold it back with bad fueling
Taz069,
Good question! We're going to define some small block Chevy terminology,
and this along with the 3 photos below should make all this snap into sharp focus.
Deck Height: (Simplification) The total distance that we have to work with
between where the crankshaft is bolted in versus the surface that the cylinder
head is bolted to. The SBC is real close to 9". (Actually 9.025")
We simply have to fit 1/2 of the stroke that the crankshaft gives us + the length
of the connecting rod + the distance between the centerline of the wrist pin to the
top of the piston.
That's it - we're only juggling a total of three variables. If we get it right, it all just fits.
Get it wrong, and either the piston is pushed out of the top of the block at TDC (Top Dead Center)
or the bottom of the piston scrapes against the crankshaft counterweights at BDC.
(Bottom Dead Center)
Compression Height: That's the official name for the distance between the
centerline of the wrist pin and the top surface of the piston.
Now, let's look at the 3 photos I've attached.
Photo #1: Pistons for a 302ci SBC. (aka: DZ302 Trans Am engine) This is a piston
for a 3" stroke & 5.7" long connecting rod. Check out all the distance between the
wrist pin and the top of the piston. (And the oil ring land too!)
Photo #2: Piston for a 350ci SBC. This piston is for a 3.48" stroke and a 5.7"
long connecting rod. If you look carefully you can see that the wrist pin is just
this side of encroaching on the oil ring land.
Photo #3. Piston for a 383ci SBC. These pistons are set up for a 3.75" stroke
and a 6" connecting rod. Your pistons should look similar to these. Note that
in order to make room for the longer stroke + the longer than stock connecting
rod, the piston's compression height is quite a bit less than the other 2 examples.
(And be sure to check out where the wrist pin ends up vis-a-vis the oil ring land!)
****
Set up properly, a modern long-rod 383 SBC is the engine that Chevy should have
built back in the day -- it's an overachiever.
With the above, you can now add Deck Height & piston Compression Height to your
motorhead lexicon. And the ladies will swoon when you share this with them.
All we're trying to do is add more and more cubic inches of displacement into
a finite space...
Hope this explanation helps!
This is what confuses me;Doesn't it give the piston more dwell time at TDC? That, the operating angles throughout the stroke, and it buries the wrist pin up higher into the ring lands which was already mentioned.