1994 k1500 383 tbi

[Taz069]

Next a few of the little engine that can

 

[Taz069]

Last pic of the rockers

 

[Taz069]

So I have been steered to a tci rv torque converter, and seriously weighing in on the holly sniper system and ditching all the old factory wiring harness as possible? Fingers crossed all. I am truly blessed to have found such a great group!

 

[Taz069]

OOHH. Btw owners son to send me pictures of the build where block was machined for rod clearance. And a few others. Those to come

 

[Taz069]

Hi Taz069,

Here's 3 photos showing the clearance 'hot spots' when you stroke a SBC. One thing to keep in mind is that you can have clearance issues with either 5.7" or 6" rods:


SBC oil pan rail + bottom of bore ground to allow adequate clearance for connecting rod nut swinging past at 100 times per second at 6K rpm (close up)

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(Credit: Motortrend SBC stroker build article -- recommended read: (LINK)


Same as above, big picture view.

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(Credit: Motortrend SBC stroker build article -- recommended read: (LINK)


But even after clearancing the oil pan rail and the bottom of the bores for the stroker rotating assembly,
we still aren't completely out of the woods yet. The bigger stroke = parts moving in a bigger circle the
full 360° of rotation, so now we also have to check to make sure we don't whack those extra-tall cam lobes we
also decided upon with the connecting rod's bolt heads?

Note: Due to con rod vs cam lobe (firing order) phasing, most lobes successfully 'timeshare' the same space, but there's a couple that want to clash/crash. (!)

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(Credit: Chevrolet Power Service Manual, 5th edition) Note also that this engineering drawing is showing a big lobe cam versus a 3.48" (350ci) stroke. 383s = extra caution warranted!

****

By the way, from what you mentioned previously it sounds like you are using the 3970010 4" bore, 4-bolt main block.
I've used that same block for builds in the past. (including 383s!) Properly set up, these blocks are a proven-good
foundation for a build like yours.

The bottom line is that you are officially trying to fit 11-lbs of displacement into a 10-lb bag.
It can be done, but attention to detail is what's gonna make or break this build. No doubt
your machinist has several of these 383s under his belt.

Hope all this helps when you are talking to your machinist. Just asking him how did he
ensure that your chosen cam and rods don't interfere using the 3.750 stroke crank
(small base circle cam? capscrew rod? other?) ...will let him know that you better
appreciate what he's put together than most stroker 383 customers, if you know what
I mean.

Can't wait to see photos of this engine back into your truck & running. Good luck!

@roadtrip never got a picture of my motor #'s here they are. After rolling the dice in this build. Mr.Pilcher had to change the 4-bolt caps. Seeing the ones I received weren't for the block. All good he fixed it

 

[pressureangle]

Here's some math on rod lengths.

Connecting Rod Length Comparison

 

[Road Trip]

@roadtrip never got a picture of my motor #'s here they are. After rolling the dice in this build. Mr.Pilcher had to change the 4-bolt caps. Seeing the ones I received weren't for the block. All good he fixed it

That's the one! Of course there are other 'good' block casting numbers, but
these 3970010 small block castings (with the 4-bolt mains) were considered the good
Hi Perf car/HD truck ones for about a dozen years starting right around '69.

As for the mains, no doubt if there was any issue he either line-bored what you've
got, or replaced the caps & then line-bored that. Not a problem, you will end up with
a crank that's running on 5 films of oil atop 5 main bearings, all in a straight line.
(And depending upon how much he had to machine, he may have installed a
*slightly* shorter Cloyes tru-roller timing chain (.005" or .010") in order to
get the chain fitment on the money...but that's all in his wheelhouse.)

****

Listen, before I go, just out of curiosity, did you or your machinst
find any stamping on the passenger side deck just in front of the
cylinder head? Sometimes it's already machined off, but if not
look for a 3-letter code & take a photo of that, post it up here,
and with the help of the magic decoder ring we can figure out
what it originally came in. (Just for fun.)

Thanks for the block casting photos. We're standing by awaiting
further input, living vicariously through your small block build... :0)

 

[Taz069]

@Road Trip sir I did get a picture of the side. I zoomed in but couldn't see any #'s not to say if I was paying attention to it specifically might be able to. Oopsie it was Christmas for me

 

[Road Trip]

She's a beauty...I can understand feeling like it's Christmas morning! :0)

Anyway, I've added an arrow to show you where to look to see if any
of the original stamping from the manufacturing plant has survived:

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NOTE1: If the stamping is still there, usually there is a three letter code identifying if this was
originally a car or truck engine, what hp rating, etc. Also, there should be a partial VIN, unless
of course it's a service replacement (warranty) block. This stuff is really important to those who
are trying to verify if an old muscle car is 'numbers matching' or not. In our case, it's just
some fun trivia.
NOTE2: 40-50 years after the fact, most of the time these numbers disappeared the first
time the block was machined (decked) to straighten up the head mating surface or someone
was setting up a zero deck height build.

****

Seeing an engine on a stand like this is just as good as looking at a Christmas tree & seeing
all the wrapped gifts underneath -- it's all about the promise of a brighter future on the
immediate horizon. Fun stuff!

 

[Taz069]

@Road Trip sir I will look closer in 2 weeks when I go back. But have to share this as well just bit the bullet. Ordered from summit just a moment ago.