air in diesel fuel 94 suburban

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great white

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ebay.com for the fuel tank but partsgeek.com had it for a near same price. i got it from them cause i ordered a bunch of other stuff, got free shipping and 15 bucks off. so i got everything i needed for 325.

sounds like u have a very nice fuel set up.

i got these fuel lines for 100 bucks hope there correct. http://www.ebay.com/itm/271300810258?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649

the new sending units have socks on them i read that u should take this off before inserting in the new tank.

the dahl model 65 has a 30 micron filter in it and can flow 20gph more specs in link. but its mounted on the firewall under the hood, in the wrong place. its gotta be between the fuel tank and pump. so i gotta relocate it. not sure where i should put it, that will keep it safe.
http://www.baldwinfilter.com/literature/english/6 dahl/form4060.pdf

today i took the cap off the fuel tank and a bunch of air rushed into it. not sure if this is normal or not. i left the cap loose to see if it made a difference or not and no difference. i was able to start the truck let it run for 10 mins and drove it around the block and than came back to my house less than 2 miles of driving this happened. still got big air bubbles in the filter water separator. once the air bubbles start the truck idle hard and motor turns off. i have know clue where the bleed is ive been trying to find diagram on fuel layout for the truck but not having any luck.

i looked at the ignition which and the one plug wasnt pushed in all the way. truck shifts fine again.


the fuel lines and pump has been rigged up bad on this truck so it a mess compared to stock. lol. gonna be alot of sorting out what they did and correct it all. i cant even fine the stock filter manager yet. lol.

im currently trying to buy the service manual for the truck but having a hard time figuring out which one i need. i found a few on books4cars.com

The lines are listed as the right size for a stock truck.

But you paid 100 bucks for some nylon line and some adapter fittings.

It will work, but I wouldn't have gone that way. That line is going to be a major pita to run and keep where you want it.

It is normal for there to be some vacuum on the tank. The difference is how much the vent allows in while the fuel level drops.

If you are still getting air in the filter manager, you have a leak in the fuel system somewhere between the filter manager and the fuel pickup in the tank (pretty sure I've already said that once).

30 microns is not fine enough for a primary filter (IE: the one that protects the injector pump on the engine). You need a 5 micron. That's what teh OEM stanadyne one is in the OEM filter manager ont he back of the engine.

30 Micron is fine for a prefilter. 20 GPH might be a bit small for the engine. From Racor:

RACOR brochure}Find the fuel flow rate . You should obtain this information from your engine or equipment manufacturer or your Racor dealer. Use this information to select a Racor filter that has a greater flow rating than your equipment’s total fuel flow rate. If this information is not available use the following formula for estimating Diesel or kerosene fuel systems: Gallons per Hour is Engine Horsepower (maximum) multiplied by 18% or GPH = HP X 0.18[/quote said:
So if we figure your truck makes a maximum of 200 HP (crank), that's 36 GPH. Remember that's with a brand new filter and GPH will go down as it get dirtier and dirtier.

Even 170 HP is 30.6 GPH

Any air in the lines in a diesel will make it run like crap. Not only that, the air will damage the injector pump as the fuel is also the lubricant and a diesel mechanical pump is very sensitive to lack of lubricant.
 

nyvenom30

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ill cancel the order on the lines. what should i be using instead?

i see what ur saying on the filter. restriction will be right at the neck from the start and only gets worse. need something with more flow.
thank you very much for your time and knowledge of this fuel system.
 

great white

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ill cancel the order on the lines. what should i be using instead?

i see what ur saying on the filter. restriction will be right at the neck from the start and only gets worse. need something with more flow.
thank you very much for your time and knowledge of this fuel system.

Oh, those lines will work. It'll just be a PITA. Seems a bit overpriced to me as well.

GPH has to do with the filter media not the housing.
 

nyvenom30

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i have a place where i can get w.e. type hose with w.e. fittings i need on the ends. what should i be look to get instead. im trying to get all the parts i need to do this job so i can just get it done wen i go to do it.

the fuel line have been replaced with 1/2 fuel tubing and has probably 3/8 inner diameter. but i dont what and exactly where and it doesnt seem worth trying to repair sections just replace it and put new. tomorrow im going where the house is and im locate the ffm.
 

great white

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Heres the oem filter manager on a 6.5 TD:

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great white

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About the strainer on the end of the pickup:

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The one on the right is the diesel one. The one on the left is the gasser. You want the diesel one, not the gasser....
 

nyvenom30

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so ill take the one off the sender in the fuel tank now if its still good otherwise ill have to get one. thanks for posting pics and info guys most appreciated.
 

nyvenom30

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ive been lookin online for hours and cant really find what diameter lines i need to put. i dont wanna put new lines and have them be a pain in the ass.
 

great white

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The sizes in the ebay auction were correct in sizing for a stock truck.
 

nyvenom30

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after much research i found that i need SEA 9R tubing for diesel fuel lines. im think 5/8 id should work fine. im gonna get the pump and ffm u got. i just dont know where to get them.
i looked for the ffm and its gone. someone ghetto rig the out of this truck.
here are some pics.
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as for the fuel line i already bought, why bother using it if its to small. i just feel as though im doing this, so do it right. i dont want headaches. lol.
 

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