Question, still, is if the control knob is allowing the switch to connect to Hi & the next lower speed simultaneously, will this cause over-hearing/melting inside the switch?
Anyone?
Ok, answering my own questions...
With the Control Panel connected, except for the blower switch (not inserted into the knob), all 4 blower speeds work flawlessly, but with no visual indication at the switch, obviously.
With the blower switch inserted into the control knob on the Control...
Not to hi-jack the thread but his is very close to what I'm experiencing.
My blower motor quit working. I broke the switch apart and found signs of burning & melted plastic between the Hi setting and the next lower setting. The is the second time I've found this. First time I just replaced...
Thanks for the reply. I checked the contact surfaces on the starter gear. Looks like everything was working fine. I reinstalled the starter with new bolts, torqued them to 37 ft-lbs (per Haynes manual), and it fired right up. No sign of any problems.
Yep, it's the small starter, the 6449S. Thanks, I've got the instructions on how to check the alignment. Had no unusual sounds or problems for the past year or so that I've owned the truck.
Your gauge should show the high temp at 260. Water boils in atmospheric pressure at 212º F, and your radiator will be at atm plus another 15 psi, so 210 is not a problem. A new water pump can't hurt.
Question: Does the starter on a 1998 Chevrolet K1500 (5.7L 350) have a front bracket?
The story: this past Monday morning I got a call that my son's truck wouldn't start and sparks were coming from beneath the engine. Hurried home and found the starter hanging from the cable and both starter...
Update:
My tranny guy had the truck for 3 weeks. New valve body, new solenoids. Couldn't find anything wrong inside the transmission. He felt the computer was the culprit.
I ordered a reman ECM from ACDelco via Amazon and had it flashed at a dealership. Totally cleared up my transmission...