2” rise and got it from NPD fits good for aftermarket. N p d only bout 40 miles away so I don’t know about shipping. Stock hinges work good with this one. Good luck
WOW.... I have been to 2 world fairs and a goat.......(well y’all know what I mean) and I have never seen anything like that! That’s crazy. Had to be some kind of factory defect
Looks like you have got it under control. I know it was difficult with the bed still in place. Sometime that stuff is like cancer....you never know where it’s lurking or when it will poke it’s ugly head out.
If you are going to prime it by spinning the engine I would recommend removing the spark plugs. This will let the engine spin freely and not let cylinder compression put things in a bind.
Speed handle with straight bit always works for me. I think most assembly lube will suffice. I just use...
Easy way that’s worked for me. Put your finger over # cylinder spark plug hole and slowly rotate the engine. When you feel pressure starting to build t d c is coming up. Hope this helps
I am sorry for what you are going through. I pulled my dash this summer to replace a leaking evaporator core. It was bad Day and 1/2 job for me but, I got it and a c working great. Just take your time take lots of pictures and don’t fool yourself into thinking you will remember cause you won’t...
I don’t think we are on the same page. I am referring to the top shock mounts. I was just going by the pictures and the angle of the shock looks too flat. Got the top shock mounts from summit racing for mine. Only place I could get them
I was gonna do the sway bar up grade front and additional in the rear. So you don’t like the rear? Maybe I save my money huh. Thanks for the info. I just run my truck on the street no track time but I sure think they look kool on the rear
Just a couple? Looks like you are making great progress. Have you considered front sway bar upgrade and rear sway bar addition and also top shock bracket relocation mounts. They realign the shock to a straighter position to be able to work correctly. I have been where you are and I am going...
Just F Y I my dome light switch had a little piece broken off. Not enough to activate the lights but would cause a draw. Remove all interior light bulb and see if this stops it. If so replace them one at a time and wait a couple of days before you install the next one. It worked for me. I know...
I think these guys are right about the bed. Also the cab corner can be purchased from LMC truck. Need to be cut out and welded back. Body work requires tools and practice. If you have access to the tools don’t be afraid to try. Watch a bunch of YouTube and ask lots of ? Good luck.
Thanks for the info. I was considering the rear disc brake conversion if nothing but for kool factor. I think I will stick with practical old school drums.
My brother has a corvette and he uses a battery disconnect throw switch. He just leaves the keys in it.
LOL Not stolen or damaged yet and it is stored in an open carport
Just a little advice. I lowered mine bell tech 4/6. My stock 15 “wheels scrub the bottom a frames bad. (Will lock up the tires when turning very much). I have heard on this forem that you can shave a little off and help some. I switched to 18” after finished body work and paint. I do trust you...