Would you ditch this truck, do engine swap, or swap the head gasket?

[DerekTheGreat]

What Skylark said, especially about the bearings and such. You don't know how long it's been driven like that or what caused it, PO could have overheated it. Every vehicle I've known that has had it's head gasket(s) replaced was then an oil burner due to damage caused by running it like that for extended periods of time. Unless the head gaskets died on your watch and you took it off the road immediately, I wouldn't waste time on that engine.

 

[Tom P]

If you are going to do any of it, you might as well do all of it...

 

[superdave]

I'm with skylark. Do both head gaskets. You are over half way there doing the intake. It's a straight forward job. It won't cost a lot (of the heads themselves are good), and can be done over a weekend even if you don't know what you are doing. Then you will know a lot more about what you are working with.

 

[redfishsc]

Ok. Well. Maybe you guys will talk me into it.

I'm in the process of pulling the intake. I only had about an hour to work with tonight so all I have left is the fuel rails, distributor, and a few other nuts/bolts.

How do I know whether I should get the heads machined? Use a good level and look for warping?

 

[black90sport]

Whats the worst that happens if you go for it? Doesn't work and you're out your truck, which it sounds like you're going to be sooner then later anyway. Wish I was closer, would love to give you a hand. I say go for it and learn some stuff on the way. Worst case scenario you scrap it or sell it for parts!

 

[redfishsc]

Whats the worst that happens if you go for it? Doesn't work and you're out your truck, which it sounds like you're going to be sooner then later anyway. Wish I was closer, would love to give you a hand. I say go for it and learn some stuff on the way. Worst case scenario you scrap it or sell it for parts!

I totally hear you and I might go that way. I dont' feel the pressure on this one like I did when I rebuilt the rear end on my other Suburban (my "must be reliable" family hauler) or even when I swapped the intake gasket on that Sub.

I'd hate to throw several hundred at this thing and then find out it's about to spin a bearing. I also discovered the PS pump reservoir is nearly bone dry, not a good sign. Although the PS behaved very well when I drove it home, didn't feel like it was out at all.

 

[Biggershaft96]

Ok. Well. Maybe you guys will talk me into it.

I'm in the process of pulling the intake. I only had about an hour to work with tonight so all I have left is the fuel rails, distributor, and a few other nuts/bolts.

How do I know whether I should get the heads machined? Use a good level and look for warping?

If you see sign of any cracks, find a mahine shop and have them look it over and check the flatness. If you dont see any cracks i wouldnt worry about it.

 

[redfishsc]

Lol, the bummer part is that even the Fel-Pro head gasket kits seem to only come with the cheapass intake gasket rather than the metal framed one.

 

[redfishsc]

So as I'm looking over the videos on youtube, the most difficult (or rather, tedious) parts of a head gasket swap is cleaning the heads and block... torquing the new head bolts to the proper angle......and adjusting the valve train.

I see some guys take a lot of pain to make sure each valve gets the exact same pushrod, other guys just seem to yank them all out and toss them in a pile. So how important is it to have each pushrod go back exactly to it's original hole?

 

[Keepinitoldskool]

So as I'm looking over the videos on youtube, the most difficult (or rather, tedious) parts of a head gasket swap is cleaning the heads and block... torquing the new head bolts to the proper angle......and adjusting the valve train.

I see some guys take a lot of pain to make sure each valve gets the exact same pushrod, other guys just seem to yank them all out and toss them in a pile. So how important is it to have each pushrod go back exactly to it's original hole?

You need a nice metal straight edge to check the head surface. Put it on there and check for gaps with a flashlight and feeler gauge. Search youtube for video on this.

As for torquing the head bolts, just follow the sequence and take ths opportunitt to buy a decent torque wrench. You can rent one from oriellys or autozone but i dont fully trust them so i bought my own. Use a paint pen to indicate bolt head orientation for the final torquing sequence when identifying the angle.



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