Wipers/drivers brake light and turn signal issues. Please help

[Nad_Yvalhosert]

Thank you scott! I went and check the ground and it was secure. Now i bought this truck swapped and cannot for the life of me figure out these connectors and where they went to. I have a hunch that this is likely cause electrical gremlins for me but like i said before. I am new to the platform and to SBCs in general.

Any knowledge of where the should go or if they are needed would be a great help! They are all coming off main loom that is routed behind engine along the firewall and are coming out to passenger side of engine.

Pic 1 are the TBI injector connectors
Pic 3 goes to the low pressure cut-off switch on the A/C accumulator
Pic 4 is likely the TPS, IAC
There's gonna be EGR, MAP, ECT connectors floating around there too.
P.O. screwed you over and went carbureted, huh?

 

[GMT400Frank]

Pic 1 are the TBI injector connectors
Pic 4 is likely the TPS, IAC
There's gonna be EGR, MAP, ECT connectors floating around there too.
P.O. screwed you over and went carbureted, huh?

Thank you. Yes unfortunately that is the case now. Too good of a deal to pass up but its coming back to bite me currently lol!

I also noticed the turn signal stalk going to the right is fine but when i put on the left turn signal it is touchy and have to find the sweet spot to get it to turn on. When i press brake peddle with turn signal the signal on the gauge cluster stays solid and signal does not switch on or off it stays on until brake pedal is released.

 

[Nad_Yvalhosert]

Thank you. Yes unfortunately that is the case now. Too good of a deal to pass up but its coming back to bite me currently lol!

I also noticed the turn signal stalk going to the right is fine but when i put on the left turn signal it is touchy and have to find the sweet spot to get it to turn on. When i press brake peddle with turn signal the signal on the gauge cluster stays solid and signal does not switch on or off it stays on until brake pedal is released.

Sounds like the turn signal switch is bad. Time to tear down the column. There's a special tool to compress the spring...

 

[Nad_Yvalhosert]

Thank you. Yes unfortunately that is the case now. Too good of a deal to pass up but its coming back to bite me currently lol!

It's gonna get worse.
The computer needs TPS and temp sensor inputs to properly run the "e" of your 4L60e transmission.

 

[GMT400Frank]

It's gonna get worse.
The computer needs TPS and temp sensor inputs to properly run the "e" of your 4L60e transmission.

Oh good! Might be a dumb question but how would one go about getting the tps and temp sensors hooked up. The truck seems to run and drive well as it sits. I do not notice any trans issues albeit the tach is not hooked up currently. The wire going from tach to distributor is cut and i will be fixing that.

 

[Nad_Yvalhosert]

I have zero idea how to hook up an OE TPMS to an aftermarket carb.
The OE temp sensor should be threaded into the intake, next to the t-stat housing, but with your aftermarket intake...?
Couple that with the fact the ECM absolutely will be in limp mode without knock sensor, and MAP inputs, I have no idea what the tranny is gonna do. Max line pressure? No lockup comverter?

 

[Erik the Awful]

I also noticed the turn signal stalk going to the right is fine but when i put on the left turn signal it is touchy and have to find the sweet spot to get it to turn on. When i press brake peddle with turn signal the signal on the gauge cluster stays solid and signal does not switch on or off it stays on until brake pedal is released.

Check the condition of your rear light harness! My son's truck had some crazy issues with lighting. I had to splice some wire and reconnect the ground on the rear harness and it fixed everything. It seems that you can't find a truck around here that doesn't have some redneckerish trailer wiring. Doing it right ain't hard, but a majority of people still screw it up.

 

[GMT400Frank]

So i just replaced the turn signal switch in the steering wheel with a brand new unit and the siwtch between left and right signal is much more concise. However, the issue is still there and apparent. Drivers side only tailight does not come on when braking or signalling but the passenger side is functioning properly. The wipers and sprayers still both do not function as well.

I have remade the ground wire on the rear frame and redid every ground in the engine bay to ensure its not a grounding issues I have also replaced wiper motor circuit board. The brake lights are both brand new as well and now the signal switch running through the column. I am not sure if it could be a brake light switch or possibly the purple and white wires that go through the column and the turn signal stalk goes into? I am perplexed as to why wipers and this drivers tailight is acting so funny.

 

[HotWheelsBurban]

The taillight issue could be a bad circuit board in the taillight; what the factory style taillights use instead of individual sockets with bulbs that fit into the lens. I've replaced the passenger side on my crew cab with a new one, because the used one I had was also bad. Still have a used one on the driver's side, and it needs a light smack sometimes for the backup light to come on. I'm going to buy new taillight assemblies, but it hasn't been in the budget lately.
If you can smack it with your hand, and it works properly, that's most likely the problem. Sometimes a bulb will have a loose filament, but if the bulbs are good, it's the board. They're $15-20 at the parts store, and they are side specific due to the curvature of the lens.

 

[GMT400Frank]

The taillight issue could be a bad circuit board in the taillight; what the factory style taillights use instead of individual sockets with bulbs that fit into the lens. I've replaced the passenger side on my crew cab with a new one, because the used one I had was also bad. Still have a used one on the driver's side, and it needs a light smack sometimes for the backup light to come on. I'm going to buy new taillight assemblies, but it hasn't been in the budget lately.
If you can smack it with your hand, and it works properly, that's most likely the problem. Sometimes a bulb will have a loose filament, but if the bulbs are good, it's the board. They're $15-20 at the parts store, and they are side specific due to the curvature of the lens.

Thanks for the response! The tailights are new and tested and work as tailights when lights are on. The issue is only turn signal and brake lights on drivers side.


Update on wipers:
I was able to finally diagnose it is likely a grounding issue. I hard grounded the wiper motor case to the body and it worked completly normal. I also pull tbe connector for the wiper sprayer motor and hard wired it and it worked well. I am not exactly sure what I should be looking for now or how to fix this. I tried to follow the ground for botb and they lead into the cab under dash.