1990GMCSIERRA
I'm Awesome
ride like an old wagon if u crank em too much
Will this fit?
- Thread starter illinoisboy
- Start date
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Swims350
I'm Awesome
yea but that's all the 2-3 inch kit is, keys which are worthless when stockers crank it up 2-3 inches, or maybe bars, some I saw have new bars, then you get uppers to help with the UBJ angle, and you get a diff. drop to help with the cv angle, nothing for the tie rod and nothing for the lowers. it's an over priced crank and it's gonna ride the same cranking stock keys or putting on the kit, if you go too much it's rough, if you don't go over 2 inches it's ok.
1990GMCSIERRA
I'm Awesome
those wheels are gona look killer
illinoisboy
I'm Awesome
Thanks 1990gmc
and here is the link to the lift
http://www.westkycustoms.com/produc...U-1992-1998-Tahoe-Sub-2-3-Suspension-Kit.html
So is that just like cranking it up or is it any better
and here is the link to the lift
http://www.westkycustoms.com/produc...U-1992-1998-Tahoe-Sub-2-3-Suspension-Kit.html
So is that just like cranking it up or is it any better
illinoisboy
I'm Awesome
O and can anyone tell me what type those wheels are?
1990GMCSIERRA
I'm Awesome
cranking = rough riding
get cha a 4 inch rough country lift
get cha a 4 inch rough country lift
Swims350
I'm Awesome
that lift is nothing more then crank up front and way over priced. Go under your truck, jack it up safely and get the wheels off the ground, get an 18mm socket, find the torsion bar adjuster bolts, and give em a few turns, I'd say 3 or 4, count the number and do the same on both sides, then let it down and drive it around, see how stiff it is and if you like it, see how tall it is. Measure from ground to the fender well over the tire before and after to know how much lift you got.
There is nothing in that kit to lift with, the keys are reindexed but that means nothing, it just let's you crank the bolt down more and over crank the front end. The stock keys will go as high as you want to go, if you need to go higher you want a full drop 4-6 inch kit. The 4 inch kit is the same as the 6 inch you just don't get rear add a leafs.
Now the control arms in that 2-3 inch kit are good for when you crank too much, they help correct the upper ball joints bad angle caused by over cranking, they drop the diff. that helps the cv angles, the tie rods and lowers are just screwed nothing to help bad angles on them.
The front lift with that kit is done by cranking the torsion bars, nothing else lifts it. The shocks are good to replace yours if they are bad and the rear has add a leafs, they raise spring rate and make the back end stiff, but you can haul more with them.
The 4 inch and 6 inch kits drop the control arms both upper and lower and the diff, and they also drop the steering, droping all those gives you the lift, mainly the uppers and lowers, then bringing down the diff. helps cv angles and bringing down the steering fixed the bad tie rod angles. The back has blocks and add a leafs.
IMO if you want a few inches crank and block it, and if you want more on the cheap or just don't want to crank, buy a body lift.
If you want a susp. lift without a lot of crank, buy the 4 or 6 inch kit. They are the same so shoot for the 6 and leave out the add a leafs in back and don't crank it to 6 inches, and you'll have a 4 inch. Then you can always crank them higher later. I've heard of guys getting 7 inches of lift out of those kits and hear they have a 5 inch diff. drop. Now some of the other kits like the dick cepek 6.5 have a true 6 inch diff. drop and can get 7-8 inches of lift up front.
I've seen plenty of guys crank the front (stock everything) to 2-3 inches, and then add a block in back, and the truck sit level. I also have saw guys who do a ball joint flip to help with the upper ball joints terrible angle when it's over cranked.
There is nothing in that kit to lift with, the keys are reindexed but that means nothing, it just let's you crank the bolt down more and over crank the front end. The stock keys will go as high as you want to go, if you need to go higher you want a full drop 4-6 inch kit. The 4 inch kit is the same as the 6 inch you just don't get rear add a leafs.
Now the control arms in that 2-3 inch kit are good for when you crank too much, they help correct the upper ball joints bad angle caused by over cranking, they drop the diff. that helps the cv angles, the tie rods and lowers are just screwed nothing to help bad angles on them.
The front lift with that kit is done by cranking the torsion bars, nothing else lifts it. The shocks are good to replace yours if they are bad and the rear has add a leafs, they raise spring rate and make the back end stiff, but you can haul more with them.
The 4 inch and 6 inch kits drop the control arms both upper and lower and the diff, and they also drop the steering, droping all those gives you the lift, mainly the uppers and lowers, then bringing down the diff. helps cv angles and bringing down the steering fixed the bad tie rod angles. The back has blocks and add a leafs.
IMO if you want a few inches crank and block it, and if you want more on the cheap or just don't want to crank, buy a body lift.
If you want a susp. lift without a lot of crank, buy the 4 or 6 inch kit. They are the same so shoot for the 6 and leave out the add a leafs in back and don't crank it to 6 inches, and you'll have a 4 inch. Then you can always crank them higher later. I've heard of guys getting 7 inches of lift out of those kits and hear they have a 5 inch diff. drop. Now some of the other kits like the dick cepek 6.5 have a true 6 inch diff. drop and can get 7-8 inches of lift up front.
I've seen plenty of guys crank the front (stock everything) to 2-3 inches, and then add a block in back, and the truck sit level. I also have saw guys who do a ball joint flip to help with the upper ball joints terrible angle when it's over cranked.
FastOrange
OBSless
my dad's old truck, 1995 ECSB, crank in front, 2" block rear.
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