What have you towed lately

[HotWheelsBurban]

The 5x8 Uhaul trailer, not quite as full as last year. Which considering some of the other things going on, is a good thing.

 

[1997]

looks good, what are you bars rated for?
from pic, it looks like your bars might benefit from an upgrade, imo.
i use 600lbs for my current trailer, but have seen 1000lbs ones.

 

[South VA]

looks good, what are you bars rated for?
from pic, it looks like your bars might benefit from an upgrade, imo.
i use 600lbs for my current trailer, but have seen 1000lbs ones.

Thanks. Pretty sure they're rated to 1000 lbs.

Why do you think the bars need an upgrade? They seem to work well. Then again, I'm no expert.

 

[Supercharged111]

Thanks. Pretty sure they're rated to 1000 lbs.

Why do you think the bars need an upgrade? They seem to work well. Then again, I'm no expert.

1000# bars are plenty for that. If you like you can add some preload to them, that would lower the nose some.

 

[South VA]

1000# bars are plenty for that. If you like you can add some preload to them, that would lower the nose some.

I didn’t measure it, but the Subdivision appears to be sitting pretty close to level. You’re suggesting lowering the front end a bit more?

 

[Supercharged111]

I didn’t measure it, but the Subdivision appears to be sitting pretty close to level. You’re suggesting lowering the front end a bit more?

There's guidance on how much ride height should ideally change with a properly loaded trailer and set up WD hitch. It looks pretty good from a distance, better than you'd get out of a 1500. But that's a fairly light load for the burb, how much did you play with preload before you settled there? We are splitting hairs here to be clear.

 

[South VA]

There's guidance on how much ride height should ideally change with a properly loaded trailer and set up WD hitch. It looks pretty good from a distance, better than you'd get out of a 1500. But that's a fairly light load for the burb, how much did you play with preload before you settled there? We are splitting hairs here to be clear.

I went through three or four iterations before arriving at the current setting. At first the Subdivision squatted down, and the trailer was tilted a bit downward.

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I had to raise the hitch ball by taking out the bolts and moving it up, which helped. At one point I had the WD bars set for more ‘lift’ by shortening the chains, and the bars were at an angle that the hitch manual indicated was not correct.

What I have now is the best that I have been able to achieve. But I haven’t measured it since my initial adjustments, so it would be worth checking. Next time I’m on level ground while hitching up, I’ll take measurements to confirm they’re within spec.

 

[Supercharged111]

I went through three or four iterations before arriving at the current setting. At first the Subdivision squatted down, and the trailer was tilted a bit downward.

You must be registered for see images attach

I had to raise the hitch ball by taking out the bolts and moving it up, which helped. At one point I had the WD bars set for more ‘lift’ by shortening the chains, and the bars were at an angle that the hitch manual indicated was not correct.

What I have now is the best that I have been able to achieve. But I haven’t measured it since my initial adjustments, so it would be worth checking. Next time I’m on level ground while hitching up, I’ll take measurements to confirm they’re within spec.

Yeah there's a bit to the setup for sure. The bars need to be pretty much level but if you cant the head backwards to aim the bars at the ground they'll have more preload when at any given setting. Changing the height pretty much has you starting over with that dance. On my Brophy hitch I have a washer stack that dictated the angle of the head and on my Reese there are teeth cast into the head and toothed washers that drop in to hold the angle. I really need a longer shank for the Reese so I can drop it down one more, add air to the bags, and not have the trailer nose up.

 

[South VA]

Yeah there's a bit to the setup for sure. The bars need to be pretty much level but if you cant the head backwards to aim the bars at the ground they'll have more preload when at any given setting. Changing the height pretty much has you starting over with that dance. On my Brophy hitch I have a washer stack that dictated the angle of the head and on my Reese there are teeth cast into the head and toothed washers that drop in to hold the angle. I really need a longer shank for the Reese so I can drop it down one more, add air to the bags, and not have the trailer nose up.

Thanks. I’ll have a look at it with that in mind.

Changing the height was necessary, as it was set for the camper PO’s pickup truck. He graciously included the hitch with the camper sale.

 

[Supercharged111]

Thanks. I’ll have a look at it with that in mind.

Changing the height was necessary, as it was set for the camper PO’s pickup truck. He graciously included the hitch with the camper sale.

Same when I bought my cargo trailer, got a free WD hitch in the deal.