Trouble installing harmonic balancer - it gets to the same spot and then binds

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soundquest

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Cannot get past a certain spot on reseating my harmonic balancer -- it gets to the same spot (only halfway home) and just STOPS. All forward progress halts and it's either the installer bearing that is going to implode or I am going to commit the unpardonable sin of stripping out the crank snout threads. I have had to remove it twice already and start all over, both times inspecting the inner and outer metal surfaces of the concerned two mating surfaces. They are coated in super lube and are clean... but they look dull, like they need polishing. Looking for some direction here on how to properly polish these two surfaces (snout and HB inner track) and what works best for lubrication (have heard everything from motor oil to white lithium to silicone RTV). Could really use some help here guys -- I need this all to go back together tomorrow. what grit sandpaper (2000?)? Dremel polishing bit with jewelery polishing paste? Thanks.
 
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andy396

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It shouldn’t be that difficult. Did the harmonic balancer come off of that crank?
 

RawbDidIt

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Cannon get past a certain spot on reseating my harmonic balancer -- it gets to the same spot (only halfway home) and just STOPS. All forward progress halts and it's either the installer bearing that is going to implode or I am going to commit the unpardonable sin of stripping out the crank snout threads. I have had to remove it twice already and start all over, both times inspecting the inner and outer metal surfaces of the concerned two mating surfaces. They are coated in super lube and are clean... but they look dull, like they need polishing. Looking for some direction here on how to properly polish these two surfaces (snout and HB inner track) and what works best for lubrication (have heard everything from motor oil to white lithium to silicone RTV). Could really use some help here guys -- I need this all to go back together tomorrow. what grit sandpaper (2000?)? Dremel polishing bit with jewelery polishing paste? Thanks.
You may try returning the harmonic balancer you've got for a new one. Might just be out of spec.

If you absolutely can't install it the way it is, you'd want to lap the two surfaces if at all possible. Finding a lapping kit for that size might be a bit difficult, but shy of that I'd try either an Emery bit and lapping compound on both surfaces, or a cotton or foam dremel bit. make sure you're dead even all the way around. Haven't installed a harmonic balancer on this engine, is there a key, or it's perfectly round? If there's a key, lapping the crank won't work, but you can still polish it pretty good using one of the methods above.

As far as lubes, I'd go with either grease or ATF

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What?

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I haven't had issue but definitely compare it to stock, possible wrong one or out of spec. Use the caliper if you have one for precision measurement
 

Crazydavez28

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Cannon get past a certain spot on reseating my harmonic balancer -- it gets to the same spot (only halfway home) and just STOPS. All forward progress halts and it's either the installer bearing that is going to implode or I am going to commit the unpardonable sin of stripping out the crank snout threads. I have had to remove it twice already and start all over, both times inspecting the inner and outer metal surfaces of the concerned two mating surfaces. They are coated in super lube and are clean... but they look dull, like they need polishing. Looking for some direction here on how to properly polish these two surfaces (snout and HB inner track) and what works best for lubrication (have heard everything from motor oil to white lithium to silicone RTV). Could really use some help here guys -- I need this all to go back together tomorrow. what grit sandpaper (2000?)? Dremel polishing bit with jewelery polishing paste? Thanks.

Are the keys lined up with the keyway? If they aren't the right size it may be rolling a burr...
 

soundquest

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keys are lined up with keyway. this is the stock HB, the one I pulled off. Going to thoroughly clean and polish both surfaces and hit it with ATF on the 3rd attempt. There is a small bur on the key that I will carefully file down with a very fine grit file. Will keep posted on my results. very appreciative of the input. Lots of smart experienced folk on here. thanks.
 
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You may have accidently gotten an undersized balancer intended for crank snouts that have been turned down. Measure the id of the snout and see if it is in spec. otherwise take the timing cover off and polish up the snout with some emery cloth. surface finish shouldn't be to important here, so start with 180 or so and work up to 400 if that.
 

Chewy11B

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So this balancer was on the crank?? Or was it a reused balancer on a new crank?
 

Insert Quarter

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Check if there is a slight groove on the outside of the balancer shaft from the old timing cover seal and that's how far it should press on. The harmonic balancer doesn't push on so far that it's flush with the crank if that's your concern. I think there is a one inch gap, give or take, between the face of the crank and the outer face of the harmonic balancer. You could also slide a piece of wire along the crank snout till it hits the lip on the crank and reference that length to the balancer, the balancer should be a bit longer than your measurement.

A little oil on the crank snout and a dab of RTV on the key groove about half way down the inside of the balancer is what I've always read in repair books. RTV is because oil can work it's way through that keyed section.
 
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