Given that you can't CHANGE the timing on a 5.7 Vortec, if the timing is off, you need a new computer; or someone "tuned" your computer improperly.
Ok. That kind of makes me feel better lol. However it can also be badnews
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Given that you can't CHANGE the timing on a 5.7 Vortec, if the timing is off, you need a new computer; or someone "tuned" your computer improperly.
I don't see a spot for it on the compressor.
Ahh, that would make sense. The gauges (mostly not working) are a whole other story I'll get in to elsewhere, but the temp sensor you mentioned is hooked up to an aftermarket gauge in the cab and the cluster temp gauges is not working. I will have to get a correct replacement sensor and see if I can get the gauge in the cluster to register, but I'm afraid the cluster is having bigger issues.
probably to the old heat sender looks like someone put a macanical gauge on itWhere does this go? Found it laying on the manifold in front of the TB. It comes out of the same wire loom as the alternator wires.
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It could be an adjustment or a collapsed lifter. I had one that wound up wearing down about 5/32" from hammering against the cam lobe. Luckily it didn't wear down the cam, I ordered another lifter and everything is back to normal, I hope.If I hear a ticking noise under the valve cover That's most likely a adjustment needed right?
It could be an adjustment or a collapsed lifter. I had one that wound up wearing down about 5/32" from hammering against the cam lobe. Luckily it didn't wear down the cam, I ordered another lifter and everything is back to normal, I hope.
Pull the valve cover and look to see if the rocker arm nut has backed off any by comparing it to the adjacent corresponding valve. I had poly locks on mine so it was easy to tell it hadn't backed out any. Then I pulled the neighboring rocker and put a dial indicator on both to see if the cam was worn down any. They both moved the same within a couple thousands. We adjusted it down and set it like a solid lifter cam and ordered a couple new lifters. After pulling the intake manifold, we pulled the lifter out and it was stuck collapsed and worn down. Now your roller cam lifter hopefully may not be worn down but it still can get some grit stuck in it to keep it from pumping up.How would I know if its collapse or just needs to be tightened?
Pull the valve cover and look to see if the rocker arm nut has backed off any by comparing it to the adjacent corresponding valve. I had poly locks on mine so it was easy to tell it hadn't backed out any. Then I pulled the neighboring rocker and put a dial indicator on both to see if the cam was worn down any. They both moved the same within a couple thousands. We adjusted it down and set it like a solid lifter cam and ordered a couple new lifters. After pulling the intake manifold, we pulled the lifter out and it was stuck collapsed and worn down. Now your roller cam lifter hopefully may not be worn down but it still can get some grit stuck in it to keep it from pumping up.
If you have poly locks you can or just loosen the nut.Do i loosen the Allen head first then the nut?
Yes, do that 1st so you can see which one is loose and when setting valve lash. You still want to find the one(s) that is/are the culprit(s). It may or may not be obvious just looking at them.Also should the lifter be all the way up?