Without a photo or holding the lamp in my hands, I have seen some very good advice on previous post. Dropped88 indicated the use of dielectric grease...that is sage practice for the salt belt drivers. At the dealer, we requested it around the time we all demanded latex gloves in the 90's. A % of shop supplies on a ticket if your are in a shop is used for light bulbs, uniforms, etc. The best find I came across, was my time as a service manager at a large boat dealer was a large 8oz. squeeze tube Mercury-Quicksilver P/N 92-823506-1 for about $20-25. Most sell 3oz. tubes for $8+. I use it flash lights, smoke detectors, vehicle electrical connectors including bulbs. The old school repair of adding to the tiny dot inside the socket contact was a drop of solder. Electrical contact cleaner is also best practices as indicated by EVEREADY in the previous post. All good stuff. I have 3 spray cans on the shelf.
On my 67 tail lights, I looked at the plug-n-play LED type boards, but found them a little pricey. A buddy spent $4 on eBay to get 6 of these sealed flat panel bright-white driving/fog lights. About 1" x 6" X 1/8th thick, man they where bright. I placed two with the double faced tape inside the lamps metal back. I used a resistor to lower the brightness for tail lights but thru a diode, when brake where on, they came on full power. Simple, sealed and cheap. A 1/4 watt diode on the tail light circuit, thru a dropping resistor into the lamp. The brake light circuit was isolated by another diode (Both facing the lamp) but with no resistor. I have two small parts cabinets with electrical components and don't remember what the actual resistance was, but trial & error allowed me to dim the LED panels enough to look great with tail lights and then brakes....Wow!
Unfortunately, a brother in-law on my wife's side passed away, with heart problems at age 55, and it is a 3 hour drive this weekend, TBD. Maybe I get some photos and a simple schematic posted.
