Stuck inner tie rods

[cjmspartans]

Hi everyone,

I'll start by saying that I'm a novice to suspension work and I'm learning with my Suburban. I've already replaced my CV axle as well as both wheel hubs. I could use some guidance from someone who's experienced here.

Initially I was replacing an ABS wheel speed sensor, but I also discovered that my tie rods were shot. I ordered some nice Moog replacements, but I'm having tremendous difficulty doing something that should be really simple in theory.

I'm trying to separate the inner tie rod from the center link. I was easily able to separate the outer tie rod from the knuckle. I'm using a 21/32" pickle fork, but I noticed no matter how hard I beat on it, it will not fully "surround" the ball joint stud. I've tried whacking it with a hammer and pushing on the pickle fork with my legs, but wound up slightly bending the pickle fork and the center link still won't let the stud go.

I've used liquid wrench and hit it a few times under the boot, as well as on the exposed stud. I would put the nut on the end of the stud and give it a few swings with a hammer, but there's no room under the truck to do that.

Any ideas to get this thing to break loose? I'm get antsy with the truck sitting on jack stands

Some pictures of where I am with this:

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[delta_p]

Can you get a two jaw puller on it to get a more direct separation force on the stud? Please let us know how you get it out, I'm about to do this same job next month.

 

[cjmspartans]

Can you get a two jaw puller on it to get a more direct separation force on the stud? Please let us know how you get it out, I'm about to do this same job next month.

I ran over to my local O'Reilly store to get a rental tool and told the guy at the desk about what was going on with pictures. He tried giving me some giant green tie rod removal tool that obviously wouldn't work by looking at the picture, so I looked at their rental options.

This is the tool he tried renting me. Absolutely, positively no way this would have worked.


I opted to rent part #67008, which is a pitman arm puller. I was hoping I could zap it with my impact, but there was simply no clearance. I managed to angle a 19mm combo wrench to get two contact points and turned it very carefully. It worked! Tedious, but I got it off!

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I'm going to do this job tomorrow on the other side of the truck. If you would like, I can try getting pictures of how much clearance there is. Go rent that tool and save yourself a bunch of wasted time... it came off after a few turns of the wrench. Oh, and give the stud a nice soaking in PB blaster or something of the sort.

 

[delta_p]

yes the pics of the clearance would be great to have if convenient to take them! Glad you got that one off ok.

 

[454cid]

This is the tool he tried renting me. Absolutely, positively no way this would have worked.

I think that's for GMT-800s or similar. Rockauto tries to get me to buy one when I buy steering parts because my truck is a 99 :-/

I have never bent a pickle fork beofore, and there are times I thought I might as mine is the Lisle set that has three different heads and two shafts.... one for a manual hammer, and one for pneumatic.

I've never measured a pickle fork, but I often pick one that is too big, maybe the one you were using was too big? Tie-rods I don't normally have a problem with. It's the ball joint tapers that give me fits.

 

[cjmspartans]

yes the pics of the clearance would be great to have if convenient to take them! Glad you got that one off ok.

Here's some pictures... wound up getting it over with tonight so tomorrow I can just install the new rods and reassemble. I did have to use a pickle fork and a hammer initially to move the ball joint boot back a little bit. That enabled me to slide the pitman arm puller into place. Try beating on the pickle fork first before resorting to using this tool... it may just pop out! If not, then use that tool like I had to

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Safety first! I cannot stress enough that you wear a face shield or have some kind of barrier using this method. It took a lot of force from that tool to separate the stud from the center link, and when it came apart it made a super loud suction-like popping sound and it flew like a rocket inches from my face. Lesson learned

I think that's for GMT-800s or similar. Rockauto tries to get me to buy one when I buy steering parts because my truck is a 99 :-/

I have never bent a pickle fork beofore, and there are times I thought I might as mine is the Lisle set that has three different heads and two shafts.... one for a manual hammer, and one for pneumatic.

I've never measured a pickle fork, but I often pick one that is too big, maybe the one you were using was too big? Tie-rods I don't normally have a problem with. It's the ball joint tapers that give me fits.

I don't know much about the GMT800, but it seems like many cars are compatible with that tool judging by the YouTube videos I watched.

lol, when I bought my replacement tie rods from Rockauto they tried selling that to me as well. I passed on it since I figured I can probably rent a tool which became the reality of the situation.

As far as the pickle fork being too big... I honestly don't know. I was able to hammer half of the fork in it. That tool I used made it much easier, and judging by how violently it flew off and how hard I was pulling on my wrench... it was on there good.

 

[Jared Jackson]

If you are going to be messing with suspension/steering, you could benefit from an air hammer with some different accessories. I have this one:
https://www.amazon.com/Ingersoll-Ra...9521&sr=8-2&keywords=ingersol+rand+air+hammer

It didn't break the bank and does what I need it to do on the occasions that I do suspension/steering work. It beats those things into submission! I have a few different hammer bits and an assortment of pickle fork bits. Never had something that it couldn't break free!

 

[cjmspartans]

If you are going to be messing with suspension/steering, you could benefit from an air hammer with some different accessories. I have this one:
https://www.amazon.com/Ingersoll-Ra...9521&sr=8-2&keywords=ingersol+rand+air+hammer

It didn't break the bank and does what I need it to do on the occasions that I do suspension/steering work. It beats those things into submission! I have a few different hammer bits and an assortment of pickle fork bits. Never had something that it couldn't break free!

I'll have to take a look into that! I don't think I'm going to be doing much more suspension work, aside from replacing control arm bushings and sway bar bushings in the near future. They probably only have 6 months to a year left in them before it turns into a squeaky mess. The tools would probably be good none the less for working on my 1968 Chrysler

 

[Jared Jackson]

I'll have to take a look into that! I don't think I'm going to be doing much more suspension work, aside from replacing control arm bushings and sway bar bushings in the near future. They probably only have 6 months to a year left in them before it turns into a squeaky mess. The tools would probably be good none the less for working on my 1968 Chrysler

that thing is just handy! It creates so much impact vibration... that it shakes the stuff loose. Get one, you will see what I mean

 

[Biggershaft96]

an air hammer is great for suspension work, but a map gas torch is great for everything