Spyder headlamps.....my take on 'em...and LIGHTING in general

[Micah Wells]

Thanks for the replys gents. Trying to educate myself, I'll have to set aside some time and read through the entire thread. BTW, this should be a sticky, if it's not.

 

[michael hurd]

There is a plethora of good information in the 100 page Valeo lighting systems link above, also see Candlepower forums under 'transportation lighting'.

http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/forumdisplay.php?87-Automotive-Motorcycles-Included

 

[michael hurd]

Thanks for the replys gents. Trying to educate myself, I'll have to set aside some time and read through the entire thread. BTW, this should be a sticky, if it's not.

Keep an open mind and a closed wallet until you obtain factual information on any potential vehicle modification.

Quality costs real money, but there is no substitute for quality when it comes to life safety equipment.

Fact: OE wiring harnesses are built with economy in mind, and have substantial voltage drop, impacting output.

Fact: GM, in their wisdom omitted the low beams when high beams are activated. This is a reduction in available light, easily remedied.

Fact: Shovelbill measured his voltage drop correctly ( backprobing the connectors with lamps lit ) and adding together both the resistance of the positive wire and the ground, he arrived at 11.4V for the low beams, and 11.2V for the high beams. ( only high beams lit, not both high and low, which would be even greater drop )

Compared to the 14.4V measured after a relay harness, this represents a 200+% in output difference with the SAME bulb.

Source: http://www.danielsternlighting.com/tech/relays/relays.html

 

[michael hurd]

New headlight housings are easily one of the best improvements, along with a relay harness, and having the lights aimed correctly with an optical aimer.

If on a super tight budget, cleaning and polishing the lenses with the addition of a relay harness ( one that also lights low beam when high beam is activated ) is about the best bang for the buck.

Replacement housings would be the next step, and after that, if you still find you need more, you could install HIR 9012 and 9011 - higher efficacy bulbs.

 

[shovelbill]

Thanks for the replys gents. Trying to educate myself, I'll have to set aside some time and read through the entire thread. BTW, this should be a sticky, if it's not.

i set out to educate myself as well....and it's way much too convoluted to be any kind of sticky thing.....LMFAO!!!!!


read at one's own mental peril.

 

[n8pu]

While I had the grill off I ran the wiring for the light bar took me till Christmas to wire the switch. I only use it in situations where I can use hibeams.

You must be registered for see images attach

I have a couple of questions, did your truck come with the black 'air foil' right under your bumper? If it did, did you have to remove it to install the bar and what do you have it (the light bar) attached to?

 

[shovelbill]

There is a plethora of good information in the 100 page Valeo lighting systems link above, also see Candlepower forums under 'transportation lighting'.

http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/forumdisplay.php?87-Automotive-Motorcycles-Included

yea the candlepower forum....ya cost me two days of my life turnin me onto that dang site Michael....LOL......i probably learned more in two days than i thought i knew since i started redoing my lights in the '80's.

and you've certainly contributed to my education as well.....i'm happy that in my advancing years and tenuous ego that i remain teachable......being humble IS all it's cracked up to be.

thank you Mike

 

[shovelbill]

Keep an open mind and a closed wallet until you obtain factual information on any potential vehicle modification.

Quality costs real money, but there is no substitute for quality when it comes to life safety equipment.

Fact: OE wiring harnesses are built with economy in mind, and have substantial voltage drop, impacting output.

Fact: GM, in their wisdom omitted the low beams when high beams are activated. This is a reduction in available light, easily remedied.

Fact: Shovelbill measured his voltage drop correctly ( backprobing the connectors with lamps lit ) and adding together both the resistance of the positive wire and the ground, he arrived at 11.4V for the low beams, and 11.2V for the high beams. ( only high beams lit, not both high and low, which would be even greater drop )

Compared to the 14.4V measured after a relay harness, this represents a 200+% in output difference with the SAME bulb.

Source: http://www.danielsternlighting.com/tech/relays/relays.html

and that massive OUTPUT difference is because voltage drop is a compounded formula.....maybe i didn't say that right. Michael will correct how i articulated it.

but at 85% of the potential voltage you get 58% of available light......don't quote me on that, i forgot here i read it......i've super saturated my damage brain cells....all two of em.

and boy did i mess up the picture sequence of those voltage tests! took me a long time to edit out my confusion.

 

[shovelbill]

i just came in from taking a break......i got some new pictures on my old phone....samsung is junk, activated my ld phone and they're sending me a new one tomorrow....no cost to me.

i managed to fix the frame...took me 3 hours of running around and going easy on meslf.....holy fu@k my back is sore.

 

[shovelbill]

Michael......if someone was to have just ONE aux light i think these would be my choice, and i do like halogen.... if you have the room for the beasts that is.

empty Super Oscar buckets come up every now and again....these lenses aren't priced too bad.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Cibie-Super...ash=item2a7b15283a:g:pIEAAOSwgn5XEZW6&vxp=mtr