Running a heavier oil

[Scooterwrench]

Try the Marvel first. I would recommend pouring in a qt,let it idle for about an hour then drain it and do your oil/filter change. I don't think loading the motor with MMO in there would be a good idea. Regular ol 10w40 high zinc oil would be my choice for your climate. I've only run synthetic in my Harleys for about a year and and quit when I didn't notice any benefit of that high priced crap. I've always run crude in my passenger vehicles and I drive them till the wheels go square.

 

[Caman96]

This is probably one of the most under-discussed topics on the forum.

 

[AuroraGirl]

Try the MMO first. I run 0W40 all year in my trucks. No need for anything thicker.

what climate you inm?

 

[AuroraGirl]

Outside of the diesels, I run the 10w40 in everything. Mowers call for it. All three engines in the two boats calls for it. And the pick ups call for it. The pick ups get a full synthetic, The boats will be getting it this year. So the lawn mowers will be getting full synthetic next year. I put the, still good, oil from the boats in the lawn equipment.

The only difference between the motors in the boats and what is put in a GM vehicle is the block color and the marine add ons. The long blocks are the same.

Do you live in a warm climate, if you do, SAE 30 or SAE 40 would be best in an aircooled engine especially for hot temps

 

[Sean Buick 76]

Thick oil is a bandaid for proper bearing clearances and oil system functionality.

On another note, take a bit of conventional oil and put it in a ziplock bag and put that in the kitchen freezer along with another bag of synthetic. Wait 24 hours and you will see why synthetic is preferred for anywhere it gets cold. I’ve done this same test at -40 and it’s amazing how solid the conventional oil will get regardless of the viscosity rating.

 

[RDF1]

on the LS engines that have a slight lifter tick, i drain the oil and put 4 quarts of cheap Dex III ATF in and let it idle for a couple hours.
Drain and fill with whatever oil is on sale and drive it. Most of the times it will cure the lifter tick for a few months.

 

[Supercharged111]

what climate you inm?

IECC zone 5.

 

[PlayingWithTBI]

I’ve done this same test at -40 and it’s amazing how solid the conventional oil will get regardless of the viscosity rating.

Remember the old Mobil1 commercials (some of you may be too young) it was so cold, they could drive a nail with a banana, while Mobil1 poured easily

 

[Scooterwrench]

Remember the old Mobil1 commercials (some of you may be too young) it was so cold, they could drive a nail with a banana, while Mobil1 poured easily

I don't remember that one but I remember the commercial where the sumo wrestler tries to grip a screwdriver tip that has been dipped into STP.

 

[CumminsFever]

If it's dirt or junk in a lifter, the only thing I have seen work reliably is "rislone". Cured many ford ranger 2.9 v6 motors with that stuff.
I have seen a faulty oil filter cause restricted oil flow, resulting in lifter noise.
If you need thicker oil to quiet an engine, get prepared to dive into the engine in the near future to actually fix the source of the noise.
Me personally, I use full synthetic oils. Just my personal preference. Turbos spool faster, cold weather starts are easier, and oil temps are measurably cooler in hot weather. I've seen 20° temp drop going from valvoline dino 15/40 to valvoline synthetic 5/40. Of course, this is diesel engine experience. Gas engine experience may not yield the same result.