Ran transmission 2 1/2 quarts low

[NickTransmissions]

What are all the videos harping on torque converter spacing, using spacers etc? Is this relevant for using aftermarket converters and stuff?

What are they? I have no idea, havent seen one (not becuase they dont exist, im sure they do) but never had a need to watch any on that topic...All converters, regardless of their origin for these transmissions have a set amount of clearance (~1/8") between the mounting pads/bolt hole locations on the converter and the flex plate when the transmission has been mated to the engine and converter fully installed onto the transmission (ie before you pull it away from the trans and towards the flexplate so you can install/torque your bolts).

This will be the last time I respond to anything related to torque converter "spacing" as we have beaten it to death and nothing else needs to be said about it (at least not by me).

 

[Jjbiskup]

Next time you drive it, find out which one is hard-shifting and reply back...I'd bet it is the 1-2 shift as the 2-3 shift very rarely shift's 'hard' unless stuff has been done to make it so and even then, it should shift fast, not hard...It's most certainly not normal or healthy for the transmission by any stretch of the imagination to shift in the manner in which you're describing unless it was set up that way on purpose for a street/strip type application and if that's the case, the converter stall is too low for the mods that have been done...The 4L60Es and 80Es do not need relearn time nor any 'fast adapt' relearn procedures performed...You don't get into that stuff until the 6-speeds starting in late 2006.

The transmission should shift quickly and crisply through all gears, both upshifts and downshifts.

It is the 1-2 shift. Itll shift hard unless i let up on the pedal to let it shift then its smooth. I dont know what the difference is between a hard and crisp shift? The 1-2 is definitely noticeable if i dont let up. Also sometimes when im going above 50 or so it will shudder? Or something? I dont know it will jerk back and forth at a certain speed unless i absolutely floor it and it will kick into 4th.

 

[NickTransmissions]

It is the 1-2 shift. Itll shift hard unless i let up on the pedal to let it shift then its smooth. I dont know what the difference is between a hard and crisp shift? The 1-2 is definitely noticeable if i dont let up. Also sometimes when im going above 50 or so it will shudder? Or something? I dont know it will jerk back and forth at a certain speed unless i absolutely floor it and it will kick into 4th.

1-2 shift: check for a broken outer accumulator spring in the 1-2 accumulator housing (use shop air to blow out the little piston). The housing is the circular aluminum object seen at the rear on the far side of the trans in this pic.

You must be registered for see images attach

Shuddering at ~50mph: That symptom at those speeds is usually tcc slipping.

Do you have DTC P1870?

That code will usually set if the converter clutxh is slipping but not 100% of the time.

 

[Jjbiskup]

1-2 shift: check for a broken outer accumulator spring in the 1-2 accumulator housing (use shop air to blow out the little piston). The housing is the circular aluminum object seen at the rear on the far side of the trans in this pic.

You must be registered for see images attach

Shuddering at ~50mph: That symptom at those speeds is usually tcc slipping.

Do you have DTC P1870?

That code will usually set if the converter clutxh is slipping but not 100% of the time.

I have obd1. I usually just stick a piece of wire in it and it blinks me a code. BUT my check engine light does come on whenever i go above 50 but it turns off whenever i make it to my stop. Should i just bring it to a transmission shop and have them diagnose it? I heard my local one is pretty good.

 

[NickTransmissions]

I have obd1. I usually just stick a piece of wire in it and it blinks me a code. BUT my check engine light does come on whenever i go above 50 but it turns off whenever i make it to my stop. Should i just bring it to a transmission shop and have them diagnose it? I heard my local one is pretty good.

There is an ODB-1 equivalent code to P1870 (component slipping) for the early GM transmissions; it's in the ATSG manual but I'm away from my shop atm so can't look it up. Taking it to a reputable shop is the way to go if you're not going to check the above things yourself.

 

[Caman96]

Says code 68 for OBD-1 but it's only for 4L80E
0894 is for both but it's OBD-II

You misquoted him. He didn’t say “here is an obd1 code” , he said:

There is an ODB-1 equivalent code to P1870

That one letter “T” completely changes the meaning.

 

[scott2093]

You misquoted him

doh..misunderstood too... Fixed it

 

[Caman96]

doh..misunderstood too... Fixed it

lol. Crazy how that one letter completely changed the meaning.

 

[scott2093]

lol. Crazy how that one letter completely changed the meaning.

Reminds me of how capital letters can change everything too...
That classic- helping your Uncle Jack off his horse ...

 

[Jjbiskup]

There is an ODB-1 equivalent code to P1870 (component slipping) for the early GM transmissions; it's in the ATSG manual but I'm away from my shop atm so can't look it up. Taking it to a reputable shop is the way to go if you're not going to check the above things yourself.

OK so i got the codes fast enough before the check engine light turned back off. Obd1 codes are
12-meaning diagnostic is running?
13-o2 sensor open
32-
35-
ALL OF THESE PRIOR CODES ARE PRIOR AND DO NOT ACTIVATE THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT TO MY KNOWLEDGE
81 is the code i suspect to turn on the check engine light
To be clear check engine light only comes on after going above 50mph.