Quick questions on my '94 Alternator

[Schurkey]

You are correct that doing a voltage check from the ground cable to the negative battery terminal would work, and that's the better method.

Amperage test, not voltage test.

When checking for parasitic draw, I strongly prefer using a test light with an incandescent bulb.

That can work. A bright bulb indicates substantial current draw, a dim bulb indicates reduced current draw. No light at all means either no current flow...or the bulb is burned-out.

Most test lights sold now have LEDs instead of incandescent bulbs, so this wouldn't apply to them.

It would be best to "calibrate your eyes" by using the test light, and then confirming with a meter until you get a feel for brightness vs. amperage on whichever test light you're using. Different bulbs require different amperage for full brightness.

 

[jd33173]

I also normally used a regular Test light to test for parasitic draws

 

[Erik the Awful]

Amperage test, not voltage test.

Oh, yeah, that's better than testing voltage, but I've blown so many multimeter fuses doing amperage checks. A testlight won't blow.

 

[jdjonesdr]

Well, gentlemen, I received my new AC/Delco alternator and threw it on the truck. So easy I didn't even need to remove the belt.
Now she's charging at 14.4 and purring like a kitten.
Thanks to all of you for your comments and suggestions.