Project Yukon HD (1996 Yukon c1500)

[dcp1992]

Then I went ahead a did the passenger side. (also if you nociced I found a leaky axle seal)

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Then I put the blocks in and bolted the axle up.

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Then bolted the nitrogen charged shocks up.

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Then I mounted the wheels and let it on the ground. Ended up netting almost 6" of lift in the back, probably more like 5"-5.5".

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And this is why I have yet to lift the rear more to match the front (after I added the coil spacers). In order to add more lift I need either a full custom driveshaft, get mine lengthened, or get a Suburban one shortened plus maybe even clearancing the cross member. I will get a longer drive shaft eventually but not at the moment, so far, even with it as far out as it is and barely engaging the trans, it's been pretty stable.

Plus I do plan to make it 4x4 some point in the future and do a SAS with either a Ford D44 with Chevy outers to keep 6 lug or try to get a late model square body Suburban with the transfer case that has the electric speedo and do a Chevy D44. But, that's pretty far in the future... unless I come across a killer deal.

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Then I started on the front end.

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Take the rotor and knuckle off.

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[dcp1992]

Next, since I was already there, I went ahead a changed the ball joints. Which probably didn't need to be done (were still tight in the socket with almost no movement) but with 200k on factory ball joints I decided to do them anyway.

On to the grinding and drilling for the top and press out for the bottom.

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Then cutting the steering stop.

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Then I carefully bent the brake line from the front to the back to give it more room until I get longer brake lines.

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Then mounted the 4" lift spindles.

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Rotor on.

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Sway bar bushings.

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All done. 4" front and roughly 5"-5.5" in the back.

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[Cokeman95]

Looks real good man. How does it ride with the G3500 leaf springs?

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[dcp1992]

Looks real good man. How does it ride with the G3500 leaf springs?

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Thanks!

While piling a trailer? It rides great and does not squat that much. Pulls really nice and stays pretty solid over the bumps in the road.

While unloaded? Not very good, you feel everything in the road and going over a big bump can make you jump out of your seat. If you're on flat ground though it's pretty good and the occasional bump or a rolling bump isn't that bad. Plus I think it's mellowed out some driving it for so long the way it is. BUT, I do plan to rebuild the pack. When you are building a ******* back leaf spring you are going to have to adjust it to your needs and possibly build it multiple times. (went through this in my Jeep, and my Jeep rides smoother than any lifted Jeep I've ever been in and had multiple people tell me that.) So I will get it to the point to where it rides the way I want to unloaded but still have the added strength of the HD leafs.

I plan to get another stock Tahoe/Yukon leaf pack and only use 1 or 2 leafs out of the van leaf pack. Also if I can get my hands on a truck 2500/3500 leaf pack it will work better than the van leafs since the van leafs are arced different from the truck pack so it's always under load. That's one reason the way I have it now is so hard, I had to compress the G3500 leafs a lot to get them to sit flat against the Yukon pack. I shouldn't have to do that with a truck HD pack.

 

[dcp1992]

Next I replaced my driver door jamb switch since it was messed up and I hated that I had to wiggle the switch for the lights to come on. No more.

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Then I finally replaced the radiator which had a crack in it since I'd had it. Also got rid of the Dex-Cool coolant when changing the radiator. Never been a fan of it and have heard so many horror stories of it (the original stuff anyway) so I flushed everything out and replaced it with Green Coolant. (This was before my lift)

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Flushing. Also put in a flush additive and ran it before flush, got a lot of crud out of it.

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Also, trying to get the heater hose off the heater valve, it decided to break... so got a new one.

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New radiator in.

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Then the next day I tested the mixture and it was horrible (it was icing the next day) so I drained the radiator and put a bottle of full strength in and it was great after that. I didn't account for the water in the block after I flushed it so it was my bad.

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The February freeze 1 of 2015. (This was before my lift)

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The February freeze 2 of 2015. (This was before my lift)

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[dcp1992]

Next I ordered some GMT800 tow mirrors from 1A Auto that were loaded and were heated. (This was before my lift)

First I made the double diode isolator with a 100Ω resistor to do the marker light and turn signal mod on the LED.

Here's a good diagram I made on how to wire up the diodes and resistors to get the running/turn LED's.Can be used on both GMT800 and K2XX mirrors.

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Wiring in the Diodes and resistors to the Truck

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Taking the Purple wire in the convenience center, which is for the rear glass defroster, and tapping the mirror heat into it. I'm pretty sure even if you have a truck, you can get the SUV HVAC and use the rear glass defroster for the mirror heater by plugging a spade connector into the spot where the purple wire is. But don't quote me on that.

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Soldering the wire.

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Running the wires to the doors and in the door.

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Here's the mirrors.

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I also picked up some 99-00 Escalade/Denali 8 pin mirror plugs at Pull-A-Part so I could wire them up to the vehicle side and not have to change the 8 pin on the mirror.

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And that's all for now. I have to head to work, but I might post some more before I head to bed tonight.

'Til next time!

 

[98sierra4x4]

Wow what a transformation! Nice truck


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[dcp1992]

Wow what a transformation! Nice truck


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Thanks!!

Here is the stock 4 pin driver side vehicle side connector.

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Seeing where I need to move the pins on the vehicle side 4 pin for the mirror to the 8 pin delani connector. Green to Green, Blue to Blue, and the two reds go to the two yellows.

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Installing the driver mirror.

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Here's a video of the diodes and resistor at work. It won't let me enable it so just click it. (From Instagram)
http://scontent-dfw1-1.cdninstagram.com/t50.2886-16/11069087_1555399761401957_431421326_n.mp4

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And here are the 80mm halos I have in my headlights right now, they are COB LED and they are green (single color). I have some RGB halos to put in another set of headlights that I put in a set of light's for my buddies 95 Z71 for his birthday in January. (will see pictures later on) Came out great and can't wait to build mine with color shift. I just have to get another set of headlights since it will be neater to start over then try to rebuild the ones I have now. (This was before my lift, but not by much)

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[dcp1992]

Taking apart the eBay projector headlights and putting in my first set of halos.

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What makes the cut off line in the projector.

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all the side clips

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Getting ready to pull the lenses off.

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Heat up the oven to 225°F and place the headlamp in the oven for 5 minute intervals and slowly pry the lense off. Might take multiple heat cycles. Just go slow and don't force it, if it dosen't want to separate, place it back in the oven.

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How the original halo rings worked.

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A mockup of the halos.

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Got some Green 5mm LEDs from Super Bright LEDs and took the white LEDs out of the center lights and put green in them.

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[dcp1992]

Next I started to clearance the old halos to fit the new rings in place.

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I also hit 200k (this was April 8, 2015, last year)

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Got everything clearanced and started to paint the old halos. First with plastic promoter then some gloss black paint I had lying around. (when I did my buddies I used satin paint and was much more pleased with the look)

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And mounted. Again, this was my first set so not the greatest. But I'll also say I'm not as good as the people that do it for a living but it's also kinda hard to tell that much of a difference unless you get really close up. I will say I did better on my friends lights I built and hopefully I'll do better on my next set I build with the other RGB halos I have.

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And that's where I'm going to stop for the night... morning... It's 1:40 in the AM so I might as well hit the hay so I can get up at a decent time in the morning. I guess I'm probably halfway through now.... Maybe. If I keep it up and post at least some a day I'll probably be up to speed with current time updates before too long. Shorter than I expected anyway... At least it's taking less time than it's taking me to fix all the pictures in my Jeep build thread.... I've been trying and saying I'd fix all those broken link missing pictures for years. At least I started on it back in October... and got through 1/2 the missing pictures... just... never... finished... (hides from everyone on Cherokee Forum)

Anyway! Whenever I do get the broken links for the pictures fixed in my Jeep build thread I'll link it in my signature and also post it in this thread, just in case anyone is interested.

'Til next time!