Project Yukon HD (1996 Yukon c1500)

[GarrettGmc]

The green '00. Definitely looks like a fun rig.

 

[dcp1992]

Soooo, this thread has been dead for a couple years or so. The best way to keep in touch with what I am doing is Instagram (@dcp1992) and the next best place in my YouTube. I'm not going to be going in crazy detail like I have been just so I can get this thread all caught up. Some pictures and videos. As the Yukon sits right now:

• New motor mounts
• Set of TBI Hooker Stainless Steel long tube headers (EGR delete)
• Custom dual exhaust I pieced together with a mandrel bent DIY exhaust kit that exits out on both side before the rear wheels.
• BadlanzHPE Exhaust Cutouts (electric)
• Black Bear Tune
• Took the rear block off (had issues eating tailshaft bushings/seals. Needs longer driveshaft)
• Intake gasket took a **** after header/exhaust install so replaced that
• Tennessee laws changed in Jan 2018 so I had to take all (most) my front facing green LEDs off and install white/switchback LEDs
• Changed rear axle wheel seals - leaking

And that's the jist of what has happened over the last couple years. I also picked up another tral Jeep in 2018 that became my main trail Jeep. It's a 1990 model XJ. Also, in June I picked up another GMT400. Another 1996 Yukon, but this one 4wd. I'll get into that later but let's just say this Yukon's plans have changed.

Anyway, I'll go in order or try with what's been going on. First was the issues with the driveshaft and eating tailshafts and bushings. I mentioned getting another Jeep, well I rented a U-haul because I didn't know if the Jeep when built would fit on my trailer (was a limited amount of time to build and didn't finish until the morning of the wheeling trip.)

Well with the u-haul the Jeep was at the way front and had a lot more tongue weight than I was used to/would of liked so the Yukon sat down more than it usually did. I believe because of that the rust that formed on the drive shaft in the unused area forced its way into tailshaft bushing and caused it to spin in the tailshaft housing. On the way home from dropping the trailer off is the first time the bushing came out of the housing and even after replacing the bushing it never stayed in. Here's the carnage on the last time it came out and I said F-it and drove the last couple miles to work on the highway. And then proceeded to get towed home.

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IMG_20180928_170053 by Daniel Pace, on Flickr

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IMG_20180928_170034 by Daniel Pace, on Flickr

Video

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VID_138480606_052016_150 by Daniel Pace, on Flickr

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IMG_20180929_183150 by Daniel Pace, on Flickr

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IMG_20180929_183503 by Daniel Pace, on Flickr

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IMG_20180929_183157 by Daniel Pace, on Flickr

So, like I said. I removed the 2" rear block and got a used tail shaft from the Junkyard since the 4 bolt style I have has been discontinued. Out of all the GM vehicle I only found 1 that worked, and it was off a Van. All the others where the newer 6 bolt style. So yeah, the Yukon now has a Cali lean (hate it) and needs a longer driveshaft to fix the main issue and also fix the Cali lean. But like I said, the plans for the Yukon has now changed since I have a 4wd one now. Will post a link to the 4wd Yukon build thread when I make one.

Fast forward about 7 months and I had realigned the front end of the truck and had finally dialed it in as close as I could and it seemed to be wearing tires better than it was but still not ideal.
Here's the alignment specs.

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IMG_20190615_130800 by Daniel Pace, on Flickr

I also did an overhaul to out 25+ year old 16 ft trailer and I added trailer brakes when I did so I added a Tekonsha P3 Trailer Brake Controller.

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IMG_20190504_205530 by Daniel Pace, on Flickr

Video I did on the install.

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Then was the somewhat long process of procrastination on redoing my exhaust. It started with keeping my manifolds and having my exhaust rout out the way I currently have it. Well, the manifold downpipe bolts decided they strip. So I decided to redo the whole exhaust. Got some cheap (not really) long tube headers that kept the EGR since I didn't want to get a tune right away... They didn't fit. So I went with the SS TBI Hooker headers, Flowtech Warlock passthrough mufflers, some SS dual tips, and a bunch of V-Band clamps.

Oh, also had to replace my motor mounts to get he LT headers to fit. Sad motor mounts.

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IMG_20191123_180927 by Daniel Pace, on Flickr

Mufflers and Headers.

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IMG_20191025_225012 by Daniel Pace, on Flickr

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IMG_20191025_225007 by Daniel Pace, on Flickr

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IMG_20191106_182505 by Daniel Pace, on Flickr

The room with the Hooker headers, may be able to fit a 4wd truck.

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IMG_20191123_204853 by Daniel Pace, on Flickr

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IMG_20191123_204924 by Daniel Pace, on Flickr

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IMG_20191123_204907 by Daniel Pace, on Flickr

Modified the 3 bolt flange to a v-band - all the connections on the exhaust are v-bands. Also added upstream O2 sensor bungs since the Vortec motors need then, TBI's only have 1 upstream.

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IMG_20191123_233206 by Daniel Pace, on Flickr

Muffler modified to fit the electric cutouts. Need longer bolts to fit the turndown on it.

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IMG_20191201_014252 by Daniel Pace, on Flickr

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IMG_20191201_023707 by Daniel Pace, on Flickr

 

[dcp1992]

Some pictures of the exhaust pieces. The mufflers are mounted under the transmission crossmember, not ideal but not much else can be done with the side mounted fuel tank with the way I wanted the exhaust.

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IMG_20191201_005315 by Daniel Pace, on Flickr

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IMG_20191214_214718 by Daniel Pace, on Flickr

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IMG_20191215_195454 by Daniel Pace, on Flickr

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IMG_20191215_195458 by Daniel Pace, on Flickr

Outside shot of the driver side exit, same spot on the passenger side. The mufflers, like I said, are mounted under the crossmember. Then the pipes go outside the frame rail and follows behind the steps and exits the rear before the tire. (this is the Cali lean I was talking about... I hate it with a passion but again, would need longer drive shaft to fix but plans have changed.

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IMG_20200317_172232 by Daniel Pace, on Flickr

Here's a video just on the cut outs.

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Video of the exhaust that includes drive bys and also cut outs open and closed. I have yet to edit the video of the header or exhaust install yet. Due to everything that went wrong I have to go through a lot of video and see what's useful and what's not.

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Here's a video I did on the Black bear tune just on 0-60 times. Got a nice improvement to go along with my EGR delete and rear O2 delete. Got a solid 1.92 second improvement with just a stock tune update. I can really feel the improvement too at high RPM.

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Also like I said, intake gasket took a s!it after the whole exhaust fiasco.

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IMG_20200307_194854 by Daniel Pace, on Flickr

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IMG_20200307_204733 by Daniel Pace, on Flickr

Video on intake gasket replacement.

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But yeah that's pretty much caught up. With the important stuff anyway, more videos of stuff on my YouTube but didn't think they were important.

Now, I picked up another Yukon, a 4wd one. It currently has a spun bearing and will need a engine but I couldn't pass up the offer. The interior also needs work but overall it fixable for what I got it for. Now that brings me to what will happen with this 2wd Yukon. Well, once I get the 4wd Yukon up, running, and driving reliably. This Yukon will be brought back down to stock. The wheels/tires and bumpers will be swapped over to the 4wd yukon. And this Yukon may get a LT4 hot cam and make it a mild street truck.

But before any of that happens I need to get a motor for the 4wd Yukon and I'm on the fence about which route I am going to go to get a 350 vortec - new (GMs new service engines), reman, junkyard, or one off market place that "should" run. If I got the new/reman route, the new/reman will end up in this Yukon and this motor will go in the 4wd Yukon.

Anyway that's it for now. I have more stuff to add to this truck - GM performance valve covers, spark plug wires, spark plug wire holders and spark plug wire boot protectors. Also my A/C compressor decided to go out and my driver side window regulator gave up. So yeah, need to get those replaced.

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IMG_20200317_172243 by Daniel Pace, on Flickr