Post your lifted 2wd's!

[RyanMerrick]

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[EmeraldGreenVortec]

What rims do you run Green15? They look good with that paint color!

 

[cowsr4eating]

Update on my lift. With the RC 4" spindle lift, 17" wheels with -10mm offset and 285/70R17 tires, the tires do rub the bumper. I did not want to cut the chromed bumper so I adjusted the bumper out. I did this by taking the grill off, but leaving the bumper on. I then drew a vertical line between the bumper and the frame on the two inside bumper mounts. Then remove the bumper and remove the two inside bumper mounts. By inside I mean the two in the middle. There are also two on the outside that need to be loosened but not removed. I took a chop saw and cut the two inside bumper mounts in half. One half attaches to the frame, the other half attaches to the bumper. I them welded 1/4" plate steel to each half, allowing approx 1" horizontally (left and right) of the bracket for bolts. Before welding the plates to the bumper mount I pre-drilled holes so the plates/holes are aligned. I now can shim plate steel/washers between the plates to move the bumper out.

I moved the bumper forward (apprx 1.5"-2") to be even with the outside of the fender well. I did have to trim the plastic molding behind the bumper since the bumper was moved forward. I also had to shim the side bumper mounts with washers to push the brackets forward. The only way I can tell that I did this is the plastic trim that attaches to the bottom of the grill and covers the gap between the bumper and grill now has a 1" gap where I can see the bumper mounts. I have a 60 mil HDPE sheet that I will trim to replace the stock plastic molding. The HDPE sheet is black. If it looks funny with the chrome bumper and silver truck I will get the color-matched rattle can paint at the local parts store.

4" RC lift kit and larger tires added approx 6" lift total. For me that is more than enough. I'm 6'6" so no issues getting in/out. My 5'5" wife has to climb in ... literally. With the bumper shift I think 2" lift would be enough to clear the fenders. The -10mm offset also helped prevent any rubbing ... not even close to rubbing. It's possible no lift and just moving bumper and -10mm offset would have been enough. I also put 1.5" wheel spacers in back to compensate for the front wheels being pushed out. If you look closely the front wheels stick out a little further, but you have to be looking for it. Without the spacers you would see the difference for sure. The 4" spindle lift pushes the wheels a little more than 1.5" out on each side.

Overall VERY happy with the look. The truck is being aligned now but I'll take pics when it's back. I did have to crank the tierod ends way out to make the truck drivable. Super easy with a 1/2" socket & wrench and a pair of channel locks to turn turnbuckle. Eyeball the wheels being parallel and good enough to get in for an alignment.

 

[oohunter04oo]

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Looks great man!!!

Update on my lift. With the RC 4" spindle lift, 17" wheels with -10mm offset and 285/70R17 tires, the tires do rub the bumper. I did not want to cut the chromed bumper so I adjusted the bumper out. I did this by taking the grill off, but leaving the bumper on. I then drew a vertical line between the bumper and the frame on the two inside bumper mounts. Then remove the bumper and remove the two inside bumper mounts. By inside I mean the two in the middle. There are also two on the outside that need to be loosened but not removed. I took a chop saw and cut the two inside bumper mounts in half. One half attaches to the frame, the other half attaches to the bumper. I them welded 1/4" plate steel to each half, allowing approx 1" horizontally (left and right) of the bracket for bolts. Before welding the plates to the bumper mount I pre-drilled holes so the plates/holes are aligned. I now can shim plate steel/washers between the plates to move the bumper out.

I moved the bumper forward (apprx 1.5"-2") to be even with the outside of the fender well. I did have to trim the plastic molding behind the bumper since the bumper was moved forward. I also had to shim the side bumper mounts with washers to push the brackets forward. The only way I can tell that I did this is the plastic trim that attaches to the bottom of the grill and covers the gap between the bumper and grill now has a 1" gap where I can see the bumper mounts. I have a 60 mil HDPE sheet that I will trim to replace the stock plastic molding. The HDPE sheet is black. If it looks funny with the chrome bumper and silver truck I will get the color-matched rattle can paint at the local parts store.

4" RC lift kit and larger tires added approx 6" lift total. For me that is more than enough. I'm 6'6" so no issues getting in/out. My 5'5" wife has to climb in ... literally. With the bumper shift I think 2" lift would be enough to clear the fenders. The -10mm offset also helped prevent any rubbing ... not even close to rubbing. It's possible no lift and just moving bumper and -10mm offset would have been enough. I also put 1.5" wheel spacers in back to compensate for the front wheels being pushed out. If you look closely the front wheels stick out a little further, but you have to be looking for it. Without the spacers you would see the difference for sure. The 4" spindle lift pushes the wheels a little more than 1.5" out on each side.

Overall VERY happy with the look. The truck is being aligned now but I'll take pics when it's back. I did have to crank the tierod ends way out to make the truck drivable. Super easy with a 1/2" socket & wrench and a pair of channel locks to turn turnbuckle. Eyeball the wheels being parallel and good enough to get in for an alignment.

Wheres the pics?

 

[cowsr4eating]

'92 with RC 4" lift kit, 1.5" wheel spacers in back and 285/70-R17 tires.

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[phule]

Looks great!

You guys definitely have me thinking about going a little higher.

Sent from my SM-N910P

 

[RyanMerrick]

Looks great man!!!

Wheres the pics?

Thanks!

 

[oohunter04oo]

'92 with RC 4" lift kit, 1.5" wheel spacers in back and 285/70-R17 tires.

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Looks good man!

 

[johnny_buchanan]

^
Nice!

-J


Sent from my NSA monitored iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[WoodChuck]

1994 GMC Sierra Xcab (That's the original paint no major bodywork)
270k on the odometer BUT.....
30k on 383 rebuild (machining done by RK in Ventura, CA),Comp cams Extreme energy roller rockers, Edelbrock performer intake manifold and heads, Spectre cold air intake, Accel distributor/wires/coils, Jet TBI spacer/adjustable fuel pressure mod on TBI/ Level 1 chip, Full flowmaster 3in exhuast not just muffler, Magnaflow catalytic converter, Moroso 23909 55-60 PSI Accumulator Pressure Control Valve Pre oiler with 3 qt. capacity. Sigh..... No headers yet.
25k on 4L60E Rebuild done by yours truly w/ BM kit, 5 gear planetarys, TCI friction plates & torque converter, Monster Sun shell, all new insides.
10k on rebuilt 12 bolt pulled from a 3/4 ton in local salvage yard with G2 axles, rebuild kit, Eaton dif, and 4.10 for 37" tires that are soon to come.
Custom Driveshaft by Gold Coast Driveline in Ventura, CA
Moog gear box, oil pump, tie rods, ball joints, idler & pitman arm.
Energy suspension chassis kit complete
A/C system completely replaced same with brake system (still stock calipers and rr. drums)
Lift Fabtech 6" kit
Front: Coils, Upper control arms, spindles and fabtech shocks
Rear: 4" inch blocks, 2" lift leafs, fabtech shocks

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