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great white

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...Another downfall is the cost of the parts, i know diesel parts are typically expensive, but man the 6.5 parts seem way overpriced for the engine quality...

Oh, i don't know if i'd go that far. Relative to most newer diesels, parts are pretty much dirt cheap.

A brand new set of oem bosch injectors can be had for around 500-600 bucks.

That might buy 1 duramax injector. same deal with the 'stroke or a 24v.

The latest db4 ( with the updated components like ceramic rollers and whatnot) can be had for about the same price as a vp44 rebuild. Way cheaper than a vp44 if you shop around for a quality db4 rebuild, like about 800-900 bucks vs 1200-1500.

If you really look and maybe have some good contacts, there's lots of perfectly good oem pumps sitting on shelves with a dead pmd hanging off them. Most have less than 60-100,000 on the clock. Gm used to rip the whole pump off under warranty work when the all too common pmd failures happened. No one knew (or cared) that it was a simple electronic component failure. Just wanted their customers happy asap (and try to salvage their rep) and then claim the warranty work back to stanadyne. I've got a 30,000 mile pump sitting on a shelf in the garage than i paid 200 bucks for. All nice and preserved/properly inhibited and a confirmed dead pmd hanging on it. Try finding a relatively fresh cp3, vp44 or p7100 for 200 bucks....

Just around 7 grand will get you a redesigned optimizer. 5 grand delivered to your door if you make the right contacts. A thou or so more an you can have the nearly indestructable P400 casting optimizer in your rig. I shudder to think how much a brand new 12v would cost, but i'll wager its close to that if not more. SAme with almost any of the 'strokes. The words " it needs a new duramax long-block" is enough to make you wake up in a cold sweat at night if your truck is out of the factory waranty...

Of course, a dmax and a 6bt are rebuildable if you manage to find a way to blow one up, but thats going to cost you pretty close to what a brand new optimizer 6500 would out the door. The gm 6.5 is a throw away engine though. Not worth rebuilding, which is why I only compare the optimizer to other makes...

Filters are cheap, it runs less oil in the sump (5 liters vice 12 or so) and parts can be had just about anywhere.

It's low po enough for a 4l80e to live behind for multiple 100's of thousands of miles. Even when towing. A duramax would toast a 4l80e in a couple months at just factory rated power. Gm derated the duramax in the vans with a 4l80e just for that reason....so the trans would live. Even price out an Allison? Cold sweats again....

Working on them yourself in the driveway is easy as pie once you have a few specific tools and a little experience with them. It takes a bit to learn the 6.5 ground rules, but once you know them it's about as challanging to work on as an old carbed small block. For an electronic diesel, its probably jusy about as simple as you're going to get. That it does obdii diagnostics and you can tweak them like newer diesels is just icing on the cake....

Plus, its in arguably the most popular/longest/best selling truck body gm ever made. Thats great for scrap parts and the aftermarket is full of stuff for the body.

Whole running 6.5 parts trucks can be had for a grand or less these days.

Thats not so bad.

Factor in that a 6.5 diesel has a dirt cheap purchase price because of a somewhat earned bad rep and it's one heck of a deal compared to shopping for a duramx, 2/24v or the 'strokes. On a pure price for price comparision it's a steal, even if you have to chuck a new engine into it.

Take my truck for example. Sure, I had to throw a new optimizer in it becuase the 599 block died, but I've got a "0" mile diesel for an all in price of around 16,000. Good for another 300-400,000 miles. Price breakdown:

truck purchase- 5,000
Optimizer - 7000
Injectors - 500
Fluidampr-400
new oil cooler- 200
Bill heath tuned PCM - 500 (I do them myself now)
Miscellaneous Bits (WMI, guages, high flow wp, Raptor 100 lift pump, aux fuel filters, etc) - another grand

So that's what? 14,600? for what is a essentially a zero mile diesel that hauls my 35 foot travel trailer with ease. you can toss another 2 grand on to my toal for labor since my engine blew on a trip and I had to have someone else do it. the average joe with a set of wrenches and some time could save that cash.

You just have to be satisfied living in lo po land if you plan to stick with a gm clatter box....;)

Let's also not forget; after the zombie apocolypse when there's nothing left to burn but greasy teenager skin squeezings or zombie parts rendered into bio diesel the IDI 6.5 will still be rattling along while your duramax, 24V and powerstroke buddies will be the next zombie happy meal!

:)

Well, I think I'll stop there as we've completely jacked this fine young gent's thread!

LOL.
 
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GMT400FAN

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Oh, i don't know if i'd go that far. Relative to most newer diesels, parts are pretty much dirt cheap.

A brand new set of oem bosch injectors can be had for around 500-600 bucks.

That might buy 1 duramax injector. same deal with the 'stroke or a 24v.

The latest db4 ( with the updated components like ceramic rollers and whatnot) can be had for about the same price as a vp44 rebuild. Way cheaper than a vp44 if you shop around for a quality db4 rebuild, like about 800-900 bucks vs 1200-1500.

If you really look and maybe have some good contacts, there's lots of perfectly good oem pumps sitting on shelves with a dead pmd hanging off them. Most have less than 60-100,000 on the clock. Gm used to rip the whole pump off under warranty work when the all too common pmd failures happened. No one knew (or cared) that it was a simple electronic component failure. Just wanted their customers happy asap (and try to salvage their rep) and then claim the warranty work back to stanadyne. I've got a 30,000 mile pump sitting on a shelf in the garage than i paid 200 bucks for. All nice and preserved/properly inhibited and a confirmed dead pmd hanging on it. Try finding a relatively fresh cp3, vp44 or p7100 for 200 bucks....

Just around 7 grand will get you a redesigned optimizer. 5 grand delivered to your door if you make the right contacts. A thou or so more an you can have the nearly indestructable P400 casting optimizer in your rig. I shudder to think how much a brand new 12v would cost, but i'll wager its close to that if not more. SAme with almost any of the 'strokes. The words " it needs a new duramax long-block" is enough to make you wake up in a cold sweat at night if your truck is out of the factory waranty...

Of course, a dmax and a 6bt are rebuildable if you manage to find a way to blow one up, but thats going to cost you pretty close to what a brand new optimizer 6500 would out the door. The gm 6.5 is a throw away engine though. Not worth rebuilding, which is why I only compare the optimizer to other makes...

Filters are cheap, it runs less oil in the sump (5 liters vice 12 or so) and parts can be had just about anywhere.

It's low po enough for a 4l80e to live behind for multiple 100's of thousands of miles. Even when towing. A duramax would toast a 4l80e in a couple months at just factory rated power. Gm derated the duramax in the vans with a 4l80e just for that reason....so the trans would live. Even price out an Allison? Cold sweats again....

Working on them yourself in the driveway is easy as pie once you have a few specific tools and a little experience with them. It takes a bit to learn the 6.5 ground rules, but once you know them it's about as challanging to work on as an old carbed small block. For an electronic diesel, its probably jusy about as simple as you're going to get. That it does obdii diagnostics and you can tweak them like newer diesels is just icing on the cake....

Plus, its in arguably the most popular/longest/best selling truck body gm ever made. Thats great for scrap parts and the aftermarket is full of stuff for the body.

Whole running 6.5 parts trucks can be had for a grand or less these days.

Thats not so bad.

Factor in that a 6.5 diesel has a dirt cheap purchase price because of a somewhat earned bad rep and it's one heck of a deal compared to shopping for a duramx, 2/24v or the 'strokes. On a pure price for price comparision it's a steal, even if you have to chuck a new engine into it.

Take my truck for example. Sure, I had to throw a new optimizer in it becuase the 599 block died, but I've got a "0" mile diesel for an all in price of around 16,000. Good for another 300-400,000 miles. Price breakdown:

truck purchase- 5,000
Optimizer - 7000
Injectors - 500
Fluidampr-400
new oil cooler- 200
Bill heath tuned PCM - 500 (I do them myself now)
Miscellaneous Bits (WMI, guages, high flow wp, Raptor 100 lift pump, aux fuel filters, etc) - another grand

So that's what? 14,600? for what is a essentially a zero mile diesel that hauls my 35 foot travel trailer with ease. you can toss another 2 grand on to my toal for labor since my engine blew on a trip and I had to have someone else do it. the average joe with a set of wrenches and some time could save that cash.

You just have to be satisfied living in lo po land if you plan to stick with a gm clatter box....;)

Let's also not forget; after the zombie apocolypse when there's nothing left to burn but greasy teenager skin squeezings or zombie parts rendered into bio diesel the IDI 6.5 will still be rattling along while your duramax, 24V and powerstroke buddies will be the next zombie happy meal!

:)

Well, I think I'll stop there as we've completely jacked this fine young gent's thread!

LOL.


Don't worry about hi jacking the thread. Your posts are much appreciated. Its just great to hear some "good" words about the 6.5 diesel. Everyone else I've talked to bad mouths GM so bad about that 6.5. Yes, They have their problems. But
they will last if you take care of them. Their are some guys around here in my small hometown in Maine who still run them every day. The GMT 400's were and always will be my favorite all time trucks. And the fact that you could get a real GM detroit diesel engine in them makes them that much better to me. After I build my savings up a little I will be hunting for a nice 6.5 ECLB.
 

JScott23

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I still think the 6.5, in comparision to any chevy gas motor is a bad investment price wise. I mean we own 2 of them, and don't hate them or i would'nt have bought the second one.. i just think they do nickel and dime you to death if you're not careful. When you look at rebuilding a 6.5, realistically you need to look into doing a 5.9 cummins swap.

I HATE Dodge, but a 5.9 cummins is a effencient motor, the downfall is the mounts and brackets are about $1200. Now around here (IL) i can find used 5.9's with 70-150k miles for $2000-5000. So when you look at the 6.5 crate motor, the 5.9 in my opinion is the way to go....


But i agree we should get off the diesel subject since this things loaded with 454 cubic inches of GM muscle! :D
 

great white

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I still think the 6.5, in comparision to any chevy gas motor is a bad investment price wise. I mean we own 2 of them, and don't hate them or i would'nt have bought the second one.. i just think they do nickel and dime you to death if you're not careful. When you look at rebuilding a 6.5, realistically you need to look into doing a 5.9 cummins swap.

I HATE Dodge, but a 5.9 cummins is a effencient motor, the downfall is the mounts and brackets are about $1200. Now around here (IL) i can find used 5.9's with 70-150k miles for $2000-5000. So when you look at the 6.5 crate motor, the 5.9 in my opinion is the way to go....


But i agree we should get off the diesel subject since this things loaded with 454 cubic inches of GM muscle! :D

Any truck will nickel and dime a guy to death over 10 or so years old.

The word "investment" and "vehicle" dont go together anytime.

But 6.5's do have some specific issues. Some terminal.

You don't rebuild a 6.5, you toss it on the scrap pile when it calves. It can be rebuilt, but you're taking a big chance.

The only "rebuildable" blocks would be the navistar cast ones, and then only if they magnaflux good.

They're not for everyone, but are good trucks once sorted...you just have to know how to get it sorted!

The 6bt is a good lump, no argument there. Problem is; its a medium duty engine with a medium duty weight penalty. It's just too much for the gm ifs. You have to resign yourself to changing out ball joints and unitized wheel bearings every couple years (bearings at. 500 bucks a pop per side!) or bite the solid axle conversion apple which can drop another 4-5 grand on your bill.

Ya pays ya money, ya takes ya chances!

:lol:
 

JScott23

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Mine are 2WD, which makes the swap easier but idk i like gas personally. In these trucks i just don't think the diesel is the best option. With that said i do like the DB2 6.5's. There's just too much to deal with, with the drive by wire fuel injection.

When it comes to GM diesel, I'd rather spend money on a Duramax, the problem is buying one you know hasn't been tampered with.. for now the 454 will do, and the other 6.5 may get a DB2 swap or a low budget 350 swap. I have less than $8000 invested in both of my trucks. Which is the biggest key really, best overall truck for the least cost. I will agree if you can have a reliable drop in crate 6.5 for $14000 that is not bad, but you have to get your $14000 back out of it..

It also depends what you're towing. I don't tow too often, but i will occasionally pull a bobcat, another vehicle, a boat, or a flat bed full of construction crap. It all depends

Overall i don't mind the 6.5, especially our DB2. It's a roomy crew cab with a long living white smokey diesel :D
 

great white

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Mine are 2WD, which makes the swap easier but idk i like gas personally. In these trucks i just don't think the diesel is the best option. With that said i do like the DB2 6.5's. There's just too much to deal with, with the drive by wire fuel injection.

When it comes to GM diesel, I'd rather spend money on a Duramax, the problem is buying one you know hasn't been tampered with.. for now the 454 will do, and the other 6.5 may get a DB2 swap or a low budget 350 swap. I have less than $8000 invested in both of my trucks. Which is the biggest key really, best overall truck for the least cost. I will agree if you can have a reliable drop in crate 6.5 for $14000 that is not bad, but you have to get your $14000 back out of it..

It also depends what you're towing. I don't tow too often, but i will occasionally pull a bobcat, another vehicle, a boat, or a flat bed full of construction crap. It all depends

Overall i don't mind the 6.5, especially our DB2. It's a roomy crew cab with a long living white smokey diesel :D

Ah, a 2wd changes the landscape considerably.

No front differential to contend with and cup and cone front bearings.

If you're looking to build a decent tug, a 6bt in a 2wd gmt400 makes a lot more sense than a 6.x.

Problem is; you're still legally limited to a 10,000lb trailer. You've also got a 1200-1300lb engine now cutting into the gvwr as well. 6bt is a good 400lb heavier than a 6.5 when fully dressed. Its also going to drive up the front axle weight. You can haul with more trailer/weight and gvwr with a 6bt, but if you get scaled you're still limited to the oem rating.

I'd use at least a 1 ton or 1 ton dually to get the highest rating i could if i was swapping to build a rig for towing

Or a gmt400 HD if I could find one..... 6bt in one of those girls would make a hellacious tow rig.

Still think I'd go duramax before swapping a bt in though. More complex but also much more refined....
 

JScott23

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Yeah, in all honesty if i was to buy a GMT400 "tow pig" i would buy a 3500HD. We have 3500HD 2 dump trucks and they are tough. They both have 454's but if you could find a 3500HD crew cab with a NV4500 a 6bt cummins, you'd be looking at the ultimate GMT400 tow rig.

Who on here has a extra 3500HD laying around?? hah jk!
 

thz71

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my dream truck (except i want a short box) white CC 454
 
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