Thanks man, appreciate it! I was expecting to hear theres no way to do that kinda stuff by hand, your going to have problems real quick, ect.. hahah but theres a reason it took me so long to do everything, I made sure absolutely everything was done to the best of my ability or better. That being said I basically had no clue what I was doing the whole time.. but I'm confident its alot better then it was and even if not it was a huge learning experience!
Oil pressure..
- Thread starter swervin
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So I figured out it was just out of time, so I turned the distributor a bit which was a bit too much) but it flashed right up just had a really high idle so I shut it off quick because I still wasnt 100% I'd have oil at the top end (yes I know probably stupid to even try starting without knowing if the oil would get up there eventually but it's not like it's made of gold, at the end of the day it's really just a cheap beater) after that I was able to finally find an old distributor for cheap so I chopped it up and made a tool to circulate the oil, ended up getting oil through the pushrods fairly quickly, so I put everything back together and triple checked I was at tdc on the compression stroke with the rotor pointing at the #1 cylinder.. tried starting it and it cranks fine but will not turn over now!!! I have spark (didnt check every wire but I tried a couple) I have fuel (I can see it spray up when I'm cranking though kinda like a back fire) but doesn't come close to actually turning over.. uhhh one thing after another! I'm going to put the air filter on tomorrow and try choking it out, next thought is remove plugs and spray some ether straight into the cylinders and hope that will be enough to get it going if not I'm totally out of ideas
Supercharged111
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Can you have someone crank while you verify timing with a gun?
Yea probably, although when I was trying yesterday I probably adjusted the distributor atleast 10 times a couple degrees at a time. What I found weird is how the day before if the timing was too retarded it would have troubles just cranking but now for some reason the timing almost doesn't effect how it cranks? Any chance that has anything to do with the rotor being too worn out? The cap is almost brand new, spark plug wires and plugs aren't that old, and I cleaned the plugs up a bit before installing them.
Supercharged111
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Retarded should make it easy to crank. Worn components that worked before should theoretically work now unless it's flooded. Often times for me, the first start after something like this is the worst. Case in point engine swaps. The engine ran fine before the transplant, but now it DEMANDS new plugs to start.
John Hendrix
Newbie
Take a step back and think!
Running engine.
You removed distributor, hacked up a spare distributor to spin oil pump...primed engine with oil.
Replaced original distributor, engine not running...
If this information is true, the problem is simple to correct.
First, placing the crank timing mark at “0” only indicates cylinder #1 is at TDC.
This is not enough. You need to make sure that cylinder #1 is at TDC on the compression stroke.
It is easy to accomplish this with the valve cover removed. Both valves must be closed...in the “up” position with crank timing mark at “0”
When engine is at TDC with #1 cylinder on compression stroke, you can reinstall distributor with rotor pointing toward the #1 cylinder. This will give you basic timing.
I am thinking you have the distributor 180 out based on previously running condition.
if that does not fix the no start condition, you have damaged something else during the removal and reinstallation of the distributor.
Check the electrical connections and also the firing order in which you reinstalled the spark plug wires.
Running engine.
You removed distributor, hacked up a spare distributor to spin oil pump...primed engine with oil.
Replaced original distributor, engine not running...
If this information is true, the problem is simple to correct.
First, placing the crank timing mark at “0” only indicates cylinder #1 is at TDC.
This is not enough. You need to make sure that cylinder #1 is at TDC on the compression stroke.
It is easy to accomplish this with the valve cover removed. Both valves must be closed...in the “up” position with crank timing mark at “0”
When engine is at TDC with #1 cylinder on compression stroke, you can reinstall distributor with rotor pointing toward the #1 cylinder. This will give you basic timing.
I am thinking you have the distributor 180 out based on previously running condition.
if that does not fix the no start condition, you have damaged something else during the removal and reinstallation of the distributor.
Check the electrical connections and also the firing order in which you reinstalled the spark plug wires.
I'm basically absolutly positive I put the distributor in the right way on the compression stroke like I triple checked (if not more), i replaced all the plugs, the rotar, made sure every electrical connection is plugged in all the way, none of the wires are damaged... idk what's going on! When i try starting it i can see gas shoot straight up outta the throttle body, when i try pushing the throttle it just lights on fire. I tried pulling the injectors off to try running it off of sprays of quick start, I've checked most the ignition cables to see if I have spark (I do) I've tried choking it of air.. I literally don't know what else i could possibly try
Time to fourplecheck your distributor .
Try starting it with the distributor reference wire unplugged. That takes the ecm out of the picture.
If all is set up right, it should start with the ecm out of the loop.
You might need to feather the throttle a bit and it might run like a dog but it should fire.
Usually backfire out the intake is a timing problem
You also need to make sure the throttle body doesnt have massive leaks.
Are you setting the timing at TDC with the reference wire disconnected?
Did you happen to put a new timing chain in?
Try starting it with the distributor reference wire unplugged. That takes the ecm out of the picture.
If all is set up right, it should start with the ecm out of the loop.
You might need to feather the throttle a bit and it might run like a dog but it should fire.
Usually backfire out the intake is a timing problem
You also need to make sure the throttle body doesnt have massive leaks.
Are you setting the timing at TDC with the reference wire disconnected?
Did you happen to put a new timing chain in?
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I don't see how this could prevent starting but the only change (that I'm aware of) that happened in between it starting and not starting is that I circulated the oil.. is there anything (literally anything) to do with oil that would prevent it from starting
