Oil consumption with no blue exhaust ?

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DerekTheGreat

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I wouldn't run that thick of oil. Our '89 also chugs oil like a native American drinks whiskey. I started running 5w-40 Valvoline SynPower (full synthetic) along with a can of Restore and that helped some. This truck has 225k, burnt valve(s) and smokes blue on certain occasions. I've tried replacing the valve seals but that really didn't change anything. If I keep the RPM's under 1,700 it burns next to no oil. But, with 3.73's out back that means a top speed of about 60 or 65mph. Too slow.

Pull your plugs, take pics and let us have a look at them.
 

AlexHawk94

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That is not going to fix your problem. And the heavier oil you use the less oil will flow. It'll make higher oil pressure but restrict flow. Pressure and flow rate are indirectly proportional.

intresting.
well,probably it would be a way to temporary fix my problem with new oil pump?

I have noticed one more problem.
Sometimes when I start engine at hot, I hear some kind of knock/hit sounds. It's definitly not hydro lifters or so, thinking about crankshaft/camshaft bearings (?). It lasts for 1-2 seconds and stops when oil pressure comes to constant value. Starting cold engine is absolutely silent and normal
 

AlexHawk94

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I wouldn't run that thick of oil. Our '89 also chugs oil like a native American drinks whiskey. I started running 5w-40 Valvoline SynPower (full synthetic) along with a can of Restore and that helped some. This truck has 225k, burnt valve(s) and smokes blue on certain occasions. I've tried replacing the valve seals but that really didn't change anything. If I keep the RPM's under 1,700 it burns next to no oil. But, with 3.73's out back that means a top speed of about 60 or 65mph. Too slow.

Pull your plugs, take pics and let us have a look at them.

here are pics of plugs. they all look the same as this one. I have just 3-4k miles on them and 3-4 quarts of oil
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honkon

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I'm dealing with the same thing. I'm burning what has to be a quart every 400 miles or so. Never noticed any blue smoke.
Sometime I'll get someone to start it up while I stand at the back and watch the tail pipe for any blue smoke.
 

DerekTheGreat

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Hmm. Looks typical of something that's burning oil according to this chart:
http://www.verrill.com/moto/sellingguide/sparkplugs/plugcolorchart.htm
Look at the "Ash fouled" & "Oil fouled" pics, yours are like a cross between the two. Seeing as you're mentioning knocking sounds when hot that go away when full oil pressure is reached I'd say that engine is worn out. If you've got one of those tiny cameras you can scope out the cylinder walls to see if they've worn smooth or still have cross hatch, which if they're in good shape they'll have cross hatch. For S&G's you could also try throwing a can of that restore in there, for what good that *might* do.
 
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Do a leakdown test. those plugs are burning some oil. It could be leaking oil from the top end from the valve stem seals and valve guides. Or the bottom end from the rings. As for your knocking sound with garbage oil pressure, it sounds like you got a tired motor with big oil clearances.
 

Hipster

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bad rings can pass that much oil and never see it at the tailpipe. Agree with the worn out engine. #1 main is the last one to get oil pressure at start up and usually where the most wear is.
 

AlexHawk94

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bad rings can pass that much oil and never see it at the tailpipe. Agree with the worn out engine. #1 main is the last one to get oil pressure at start up and usually where the most wear is.
So I'm thinking about using thicker oil for temporary fix lol

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DerekTheGreat

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That isn't going to fix anything. 50wt oil hot might not be such a bad thing but when its @60 degrees F or less it's going to flow like honey, and starve your worn out bearings even more. The engine is on borrowed time. Try throwing a can of Restore at it. Didn't do much with our truck but it helped with my Town Car. Oil consumption with that is non-existent now. It used to chug about 1/8-1/2 a qt of oil every 250 miles. With this past oil change, I haven't had to add a drop and I'm ~1,800 miles into it, not to mention it quieted down my noisy valvetrain.
 
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You don't get a puff of smoke on startup, so that eliminates the valve seals/guides. Also since you don't get fogged out by blue smoke when the engine and catalytic converter is cold, it's not the piston rings.

I suspect what's going on here is all is fine till the engine gets up to temp. Then the intake seals start allowing oil to get drawn in past minor leaks in the valley. At the very least put a torque wrench on the bolts that clamp it down and see if you can get it clamped down more. Pretty common problem on Gen I sbc to have internally leaking intake manifold gaskets when the engine comes up to full temp. Mine has that very issue right now and it's on my "'round to it" list. That situation is compounded if the heads have ever been shaved more than .010" and the intake manifold didn't get the proper milling to match.

In regards to the knocking on hot startup, is the oil filter in the stock location or remotely mounted? If it's in stock location and you are already using a good quality oil filter with anti-drain back check valve then sadly, the engines life is probably limited from here on out due to excessive wear throughout.
 
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