Need CV axle and ABS/wheel speed sensor info for '97 Z71

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Zelda

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All, first forgive the long post and please bear w/ me.
My truck: 1997 K1500 Z71, 3 door, 141" wheelbase, 5.7L, VIN (2GCEK19RXV1207157).
Me: beginning to think I'm an idiot, I'm definitely green behind the ears and could certainly use a well thought out explanation I can follow.

Doing my front end and have hit a snag. I ordered new CV axles from Cardone, part # 66-1050HD. It is a not a reman and it has the thermoplastic outer boot. It also has the ABS tone ring on it. I figured Cardone has been doing refurb/reman CV axles for a long time and when they decided to offer a "new" part that they would have enough experience to build a good one AND the price was right - under $80 each.
My Z71 has ABS. I checked by VIN, says it has "4 wheel ABS" and it also has that ABS manifold (?) under the hood near the master cylinder. I couldn't get a good picture so here's a description.
The ABS thingamabob box has 2 metal lines that enter down low from the master cylinder, one fat, one skinny with a pigtail that runs between them. There are 3 other metal lines up high that run from the ABS box that I'm assuming go to either my calipers or wheel cylinders, 2 are skinny, 1 is fat. So, 5 metal lines 1 electrical connection. I can see that the 2 running from the master cylinder are 1 for front and 1 for rear brakes. I cannot "see" or understand how the other 3 lines serve 4 wheels/brakes????

Years ago, I did see an ABS light on the dash. I ignored it b/c I didn't have the money for a garage to "fix" it and figured I don't need it as I'm an old coot and didn't grow up w/ no high falutin ABS stuff. The light eventually went away, I don't know if the dash bulb for the ABS light went kaput or it "healed" itself (very unlikely as I never feel the ABS shudder under hard braking).

Given that I'm replacing both the CV axles and wheel hubs, I was hoping that the new wheel speed sensor on the new wheel bearing hub would be clean and that it could "sense" or "see" whatever it is that it needs to to send the info to the computer / and or ABS system and bring the ABS back to life. That and one of the wheel bearing hubs is humming under cornering and both my CV axles outer boots are shot.
My original wheel bearing hubs have the wheel speed sensor pigtail. I purchased Timkin wheel bearing hubs w/ the speed sensor (SP550307).

The CV axle I pulled from the truck does NOT have a tone ring on it. I bought the truck used and don't know if it is an OEM part or if it had been changed previously.

The CV axles I ordered from Cardone, according to their product specs, should have a compressed length of 21.0625". Both of the CVs I ordered had a length of approx. 23.5" (I'd installed them to the inner flange w/ the 6 bolts and was moving forward to put the knuckle on the new ball joints and could not due to the incorrect length, that's how I discovered the problem w/ the parts). So, I called Cardone tech help and discussed the issue w/ them. They assured me that the 66-1050HD should fit my 1997 K1500 and should measure at the stated compressed length of 21.0625"s. We both thought it very odd that both new parts, with the correct parts number on the boxes, would be "too long". I'll probably re-order the same Cardone part number and keep my fingers crossed that they come at the correct length.
If the second set is not the correct length I'll have to assume that they don't know what they are doing or there is some kind of spec. mixup as to part #s / application and move on to another vendor as I'm running out of time to get this done and getting a mite bit frustrated. So, I'll get a CV axle of the correct length somehow, someway.

WHAT HAS ME REALLY PUZZLED is the wheel speed sensor location and the need/not need for an ABS tone ring on the CV axle.

The tone ring on the CV axle is on the backside of the knuckle and the wheel speed sensor (on the wheel bearing hub) is on the frontside of the knuckle. I cannot see how on earth that ABS tone ring has anything to do w/ the speed sensor! I obviously don't know how or what the speed sensor is "reading" given that I see no hole on the "female" spline of the wheel bearing hub that would allow the sensor to "see" anything spinning. And of what use is an ABS tone ring behind the knuckle? I don't see anything that is "reading" that tone ring.

I sure don't see a wheel speed sensor line going to the back wheels, just the brake hydraulic line to the wheel cylinders up top and the emergency cable near the bottom of the back of the brake assembly. So, where do the back wheels get/send info to the ABS module / computer that would make this a "4 wheel ABS" model?

Looked at a number of CV axles on RockAuto which confused me even more. Some have no ABS, some are made for 2 wheel ABS (sensors on 2 of 4 wheels) and some are for 4 wheel ABS (sensors on all 4 wheels).

Fellers, what am I missing here? Does my '97 Z71 w/ 4 wheel ABS need CV axles w/ a tone ring in order for the ABS system to work? And, can someone explain to me how or why I have 5 lines running either in or out of the ABS box and how they interact w/ the speed sensors on the wheel bearing hubs and the not-apparant-to-me rear brakes?

Told you I'm beginning to believe I'm an idiot and apologies in advance for such a long winded (and probably confusing) post! I certainly don't mean to abuse my privileges on this terrific forum.

Some insight would be highly appreciated.
 

Orpedcrow

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I do know that the wheel speed sensor needs to be in line with the tone ring. It reads the collapsing magnetic pulse as the tone ring passes in front of it. It’s read as a square wave. Off-on-off-on etc. so it needs to be relatively close and free from obstruction.
But,
As I don’t have a z71 nor have I messed with the ABS on these trucks enough to know the exact location and relation of the tone rings and speed sensors, the only information I can add is this…

2 lines coming from the master cylinder, 1 for the front and 1 for the rear. The ABS module then splits front input into individual lines (2) and sends fluid to the front wheels independently. The remaining brake line runs to the rear, transitions to a hose under the bed, where it is split at a junction block on top of the rear differential housing, into separate hard-lines (across the axle housing) to either wheel cylinder.

Note: Cardone is not the brand it used to be. Sorry you’re having trouble.
 

east302

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For the input sensors, it uses the two wheel speed sensors and one Vehicle Speed Sensor for the rear. I think it’s on the transmission.

If you gave a good scanner, you can see if it has set an ABS code. It should trip the ABS light in that case. The GM manual has the diagnostic procedures for each code. PDFs can be downloaded here, 1997 is on post #92:

 

Zelda

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I do know that the wheel speed sensor needs to be in line with the tone ring. It reads the collapsing magnetic pulse as the tone ring passes in front of it. It’s read as a square wave. Off-on-off-on etc. so it needs to be relatively close and free from obstruction.
But,
As I don’t have a z71 nor have I messed with the ABS on these trucks enough to know the exact location and relation of the tone rings and speed sensors, the only information I can add is this…

2 lines coming from the master cylinder, 1 for the front and 1 for the rear. The ABS module then splits front input into individual lines (2) and sends fluid to the front wheels independently. The remaining brake line runs to the rear, transitions to a hose under the bed, where it is split at a junction block on top of the rear differential housing, into separate hard-lines (across the axle housing) to either wheel cylinder.

Note: Cardone is not the brand it used to be. Sorry you’re having trouble.
That helps me a great deal. Knowing that the wheel speed sensor relies on magnetism, rather than some kind of line-of-sight sensor, helps me to make sense of the system. And your explanation of the brake lines coming off the ABS block has cleared the confusion.

So, going forward w/ this info I am going to assume that I SHOULD use a CV axle that DOES have a tone ring if I want my ABS to have a chance at working.

Now all I have to do is find one that has thermoplastic boots that is made for "4 wheel ABS" that is relatively (for me) affordable.

For anyone looking for thermoplastic boots, I found a website, Rockford Constant Velocity, that has a thermoplastic boot kit for 1997-88 (that's how they list it in their "Boot Kit Catalog"), part # 816-21, same part # for both inner and outer. Their telephone # is 815-962-1411 (the website is not that user friendly).
I'd rebuild the ones I have but the boots have been split for too long and the bearings and races are probably on their way out.

Thanks for the info, fills in the holes!
 

Zelda

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For the input sensors, it uses the two wheel speed sensors and one Vehicle Speed Sensor for the rear. I think it’s on the transmission.

If you gave a good scanner, you can see if it has set an ABS code. It should trip the ABS light in that case. The GM manual has the diagnostic procedures for each code. PDFs can be downloaded here, 1997 is on post #92:

More good info, thank you!

Poses another conundrum: If there are 2 wheel speed sensors up front and 1 Vehicle Speed Sensor for the rear and the combination of the 3 suffice for a 4 wheel ABS system resulting in what they call 3 channel - 4 wheel ABS (thanks to y'all I'm learning!) why would RockAuto list the CV axles made for a '97 K1500 4 wheel ABS as "ABS Sensors on all 4 wheels"? I like the site, but that there is pretty confusing in light of the above explanation of the VSS for the rear. I'm thinking that Chevy did not have an "ABS sensor on all 4 wheels" K1500 in their lineup but I certainly could be wrong.

Thanks for the link to the '97 manual, now I better get to reading!
 

Erik the Awful

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I can see that the 2 running from the master cylinder are 1 for front and 1 for rear brakes. I cannot "see" or understand how the other 3 lines serve 4 wheels/brakes????
A lot of early pickup ABS systems were 3-channel, meaning that the rear brakes were actuated together. Since the rear brakes have less weight and less effectiveness, it wasn't an issue. Later 4-channel systems split the rear brakes to actuate independently.
 

Schurkey

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The visible tone ring on the CV axle is NOT NEEDED on your vehicle. The tone ring that your vehicle actually uses, is built-into the wheel hub assembly.

If the CV shaft tone ring is in the way, knock it off the CV axle. If it's not in the way, let it spin. There's no sensor on your truck that aligns with that tone ring. Earlier trucks--Suburbans, maybe--had an external sensor on a bracket that made use of a tone ring on the CV axle.

Can't help you with the length problem.
 

Zelda

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The visible tone ring on the CV axle is NOT NEEDED on your vehicle. The tone ring that your vehicle actually uses, is built-into the wheel hub assembly.

If the CV shaft tone ring is in the way, knock it off the CV axle. If it's not in the way, let it spin. There's no sensor on your truck that aligns with that tone ring. Earlier trucks--Suburbans, maybe--had an external sensor on a bracket that made use of a tone ring on the CV axle.

Can't help you with the length problem.
Schurkey, I appreciate the input. I do not doubt you, but could you please educate me a bit more and offer me a little more of an explanation. I guarantee I don't know what you know.
I have seen pics on the web that show an "external" sensor located in very close proximity to the tone ring. That is definitely what I would expect, the sensor being VERY close to the tone ring. That is why I was quite puzzled as mentioned in my post, that the tone ring was on the backside of the knuckle and the sensor was imbedded in my new wheel bearing hubs (same for the old hubs that are being replaced). It didn't make sense that the sensor was so far away.

Then I read Orpedcrow's description of how the sensor utilized a magnetic pulse which seemed to make sense as to no line-of-sight requirement.
Still, that 's a fur piece of distance, even if magnetic pulse is used, between the sensor and the tone ring with a great deal of metal (knuckle) in between the two. Hmmmm.

Adding to my confusion are the descriptions of the CV axles that I see at all the parts stores (Autozone, O'Reilly's, Advance, RockAuto) where they show CV axles for NO Abs w/ out the tone rings and CV axles for use WITH ABS and they have a tone ring on them for my specific year model.

I know that websites general descriptions lack specific detail, which I crave, and that some parts can be used for multiple applications / year models. I know that when reading about a CV axle I shouldn't expect a discussion of which wheel hub bearing to use in conjunction w/ the part I am looking at. Companies generally excel at NOT giving comprehensive info.

So, my wheel bearing hubs (Timken SP550307) have the "built in" wheel speed sensor and a built in tone ring. I didn't buy the truck new and do not know if the original CV axle had a tone ring on it or not. Based on your input, I would assume that they did not. I don't know if the wheel bearing hubs are original either. I do not see any bracket behind the knuckle so I should assume that, for my truck, the OEM wheel bearing hub had a built in wheel speed sensor.

Is there the possibility that some '97 K1500s had the "external" sensor mounted on the axle side of the knuckle and that some of the '97s had the "internal" sensor mounted on the wheel bearing hub assembly that had a "built in" tone ring? This might explain the offerings of with or without tone rings.

It's pretty confusing for a dullard like me.

What is driving me is my desire to find an affordable CV axle that has THERMOPLASTIC boots or at a minimum, the outer boot as that is where the split boot most commonly occurs.

For the 1997s that have 4 wheel ABS, if we order new wheel bearing hubs that have the sensor built into the wheel bearing hub assembly w/ a built in tone ring that are absolutely NOT DEPENDENT on a CV axle tone ring then it would expand the choices of CV axles we have to choose from. If the tone ring is not required on the CV axle then I could base my selection on the quality of the boots, not the presence or absence of a tone ring.

Again, sorry for being so darn long winded and in need of such a large amount of hand holding. I know it is not a becoming trait. But I do know to ask questions of my betters when I am in the dark on any particular subject so, thank you in advance.

Hopefully, this info will serve to help other newbies like me when faced w/ CV axle and wheel bearing hub purchasing decisions.

BTW, I did return the axles that were too long, It was easy given that they were ordered through WalMart. Just brought 'em in to a local store and got credited. I then turned around and reordered them (66-1050HD). They have just come and they are of the correct length. I know I'll probably have to replace them again eventually so based on a greater understanding of how the wheel hubs and axles work in conjunction w/ each other I'll be able to choose a better manufacturer of CV axles if I can sift through all the curt descriptions of parts and somehow glean some useful info (yeah, and .50 cents can still get me a cup of coffee!).
One thing for sure, I'm going to pay closer attention to keeping my CV boots clean. Am going to use a bottle brush, water, and Dawn detergent. Entertaining the idea of using 303 UV protectant, but the jury is still out on that one.
 
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Schurkey

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Far as I know, NONE of the pickups used the external tone ring and external sensor.

Pickups were RWAL through '94, then the EBC310 ABS controller for 4 wheel/3-channel ABS was added in '95, along with the tone ring and sensor embedded in the wheel bearing assembly (Hub). The EBC310 was used for the rest of GMT400 production. Your '97 has the EBC310 with integrated sensor/tone ring in the hub.

But the '92--'94 SUVs got the older, EBC4 ABS controller, and 4 wheel/3-channel ABS years before the pickups. THOSE vehicles had the external tone ring and external sensor.

The magnetic sensor gap to tone ring is measured in the thousandths of an inch--just like a crankshaft sensor or cam sensor. An optical or Hall-effect sensor might be different...but that's not what's used in this case.

You don't need the tone ring on the CV shaft. Either get another shaft, or knock the tone ring off (press-fit, should be easy) if it's in the way. If it's not in the way, leave it alone and just let it spin uselessly with the CV shaft.
 
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