MOAR Audio..

[97PROSHOZ71]

Hey guys

I'm wanting to learn more about audio systems in vehicles. I have a decent system set up in my truck for listening, but I wanna go bigger. Everything I have is Sony since that brand has worked out very well every time for me, all stock speakers in the truck are Sony, and I have two 6" speakers under the rear seat and a Dual brand Amp. I would eventually like subs, what would be the best way to do it without losing the rear seat? Post some pics of your setup as well! Also wanting to learn the technical terms of audio equipment.


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[ChrisAU]

If you want quality, start replacing Sony stuff! For Headunits, I am a firm believer in Pioneer. For component speakers, Polk, Infinity, or Boston Acoustics. For subs, Kicker is great bang for the buck but JL is my winner for quality. Here's the box I had under my rear seat of my 98 that would actually fit two 10" Kicker CVX's (a pretty deep sub):

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[97PROSHOZ71]

Nice! I like Sony, like I said they have been very good to me, never had a problem with them. Pioneer is good as well. Did you build that box?


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[ChrisAU]

Nope, eBay:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/CUSTOM-CHEV...er_Sub_Enclosures&hash=item5aedda38bf&vxp=mtr

Sad thing is, I have it sitting in my house unused right now. Probably take a while sitting on CL too, if ever. Want me to see how much Fed-Ex would charge to ship it to ya?

 

[97PROSHOZ71]

Ya, you can take a look...I hate to see the cost though. LOL

 

[ChrisAU]

PM me your zip.

 

[Half Assed]

Step 1, don't play garbage audio files.

I wouldn't use coaxials either. I prefer some component sets with crossovers. Get your speakers off the deck and put them on an amplifier. Get a decent crossover and a separate amp for the subs.

For good sounding bass go with a sealed box and a single 10 or 12. Unless you want all that bass then go bigger, but too much bass drowns out the rest of the music.

Sound deadening and stopping any rattling always helps too.

 

[Half Assed]

some basic terms

spl-sound pressure level, talking about bass systems and usually going for the most boom
sq-sound quality-usually talking about an audio system built to sound really good
tweeter-high frequency sound
mid-mid range frequency sound
woofer-low to mid frequency
sub-low frequency
crossover-cuts off frequencies you don't want to use
high pass-cuts off low frequencies for speakers
low pass-cuts off high frequencies for subs
class A/B-usually a speaker amp
class D-usually a sub amp

use a class D for subs or an amp designed for subs. They usually are better at dealing with the high heat of a sub application. Also, don't really trust the max wattage claims. Look at the fuse size on the amp and multiply by 12 to get the wattage output.

 

[great white]

When you say "bigger", what exactly do you mean?

SQ or SPL?

The two are not mutually exclusive, but the approach is a bit different depending on your goal.

SPL is big drivers and big amps, sound is often "muddy" but it'll rattle your teeth and make your bowels drop.

SQ is clear and precise sound, often sacrificing absolute SPL numbers. Still loud, but clear and crisp.

Be aware though, in a pickup truck both are not going to be the ultimate. The sound field, space and volumes are not very good for either.

Heck, any automobile is a very poor place for SQ.

There's lots of stuff out on the internet for understanding what specs mean on components and their importance. IE: watts, peak, rms, thd, signal to noise, clipping, etc.

Get thee to google and start reading.

 

[97PROSHOZ71]

By bigger i guess I mean add more. Thanks for the little lesson on the terminology, lol.


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