Losing oil in ti 350 - risks to continue driving it?

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90W7

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the area that's pitted is the normal wear section however since it sat for a while, it corroded and pitted on ya. Worn valve seals in conjunction with missing material on the push rod compounds the sealing problem no doubt.
It'll make a big difference when you get it all replaced

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kmehr

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the area that's pitted is the normal wear section however since it sat for a while, it corroded and pitted on ya. Worn valve seals in conjunction with missing material on the push rod compounds the sealing problem no doubt.
It'll make a big difference when you get it all replaced

Sent from my throttle body injected galaxy note3

You recommend going ahead and replacing the pushrods then?
 

98_k1500

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I definitely would. Looks like they would be pretty easy to bend with that much damage.
 

kmehr

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FINALLY have everything back together. To sum up, I replaced valve springs, push rods, all of the valve seals (I used intake valve seals on the exhaust, as the exhaust valve seals I got were impossible to install without destroying.), and the PCV valve. The valve clatter I was hearing is totally gone, and the truck definitely seems to be running strong. Had some whitish/grey smoke from the tailpipe on start up and during the first few mins I let it idle after getting everything put back together. The smoke cleared up pretty shortly. Took her on about a 20 mile test drive, and here are the issues I'm still having:

1) idle is kinda rough- feels like it's missing.
2) distributor is NOISY, like really noisy to the point you can hear it inside the cab with the windows up.
3) When cruising along in over drive and I give it some gas, there is a loud rattling noise, it sounds dead on a an exhaust rattle, and sounds like it's coming from the passenger side floor, but i've checked and double checked my exhaust, it's not loose. Spark knock? Could it be my tranny?
4) from the front of the engine, definitely something on the belt drive, is a little bit of an intermittent screeching noise- would a failing fan clutch make this sort of noise?

On my to do list is still: 1) check timing; 2) compression test. Any thoughts?
 

kmehr

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I should add that I broke the two vacuum lines from the EGR (EGR to Solenoid, Solenoid to throttle body), and the rattling noise is probably more noticeable now than before. I have a new EGR valve, I'm just waiting on some penetrating oil to do it's job as it looks super rusted on there. Also of note, the truck starts harder than it did the first few times I drove it. My guess is this is all from a bad EGR valve. Reading this http://www.chevytalk.org/fusionbb/showtopic.php?tid/258416 I have three symptoms: rattle under load, hard start, poor idle. Thoughts?
 

Keepinitoldskool

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I think youll be back in there replacing those exhaust valve seals pretty soon. They are made of a different material to handle the exhaust heat. The hard start could be the valves are too tight, but start with the egr.
 

kmehr

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It says Viton (which is what the intakes are made of) are good to 450*, would the exhaust valve really get that much hotter?
 
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