Losing oil in ti 350 - risks to continue driving it?

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98_k1500

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Use the factory setting. Commonly overlooked area that can cause unexplained oil consumption is the PCV valve. It can be pulling oil into the intake. Its not going to hurt it to run it with it using oil unless you run it out.
 

kmehr

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After several hours of frustration I finally have the seals and valve springs replaced on #1 cylinder. A few observations and questions:

#1- the screw down/clamp style valve spring compressor that looks like a gear puller is absolute junk, all it does is compress the valve spring up against the keeper retainer. the pry bar style works WAY better.

#2- my exhaust valve had no seal at all on it, just a dry rotted O-ring. Is this normal? (keep in mind I've only accomplished the #1 cylinder)

#3- Any concerns with using the intake valve seal on an exhaust valve? This is what I did as my exhaust valve kit didn't come with O-rings (I think I got jipped on these as the back of the little box said it should have o-rings), and also the intake valve seal just looks like a much sturdier. It's a Felpro Viton umbrella type seal.

#4- this task is a royal PITA. I'm doing this in the parking deck of my apt. complex and don't have an air compressor. I'm using the "cram rope in through the spark plug hole" method, it's not going well and has me considering investing in a 12 volt compressor. Any recommendations?

#5- i have the timing mark at 0 on the balancer. According to the manual in this position, you tighten the rocker arm till the push rod won't spin anymore, then do one full turn. I did this and then about an hour later, just out of curiosity, I attempted to spin the push rods. They spun pretty easy. What gives? Is this the hydraulic lifters losing pressure?

#6- Finally, pretty much all of my pushrods would spin easily when I tok the valve cover off, and before I did anything to the valves. I was getting a lot of loud valve chatter with the engine running. Does this indicate bad valve springs, or improperly adjusted valves, or maybe bad lifters?

Thanks.
 

Keepinitoldskool

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#1 before installing the spring compressor place a socket ontop of the retainer (about a 10mm) and tap it with a hammer. This will free the retainter from the keppers. Now when you tighten down the compressor the keepers will fall right out.

#2. Very common. I had no seals left either.

#3 would not recommend that. My kit was also missing the orings so I took it back and swapped it for one that did.

#4. Using a 12v compressor is going to be pretty slow. That being said it does not take alot of pressure. My concern is that the cylinder will leak air and if that little compressor cant replace that air quick enough to build pressure, well then you just dropped a valve. Go to harbor freight and buy one of their cheap 2 gal compressors.

#5 this is normal as well.

#6 valves should be adjusted on a regular maintenance schedule according to gm. I think every 70k or so.
 

poncho62

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I wouldnt put my faith in a small compressor.....I would stick with the rope, at least you know they are going to hold the valve up
 

kmehr

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Thanks for the replies, all helpful- though why do you not recommend using the intake seals on the exhaust? I think I will stick with the rope, it just occurred to me that I could just spin the motor over to wedge the rope up instead of endlessly feeding the rope in. I had the same concerns about the compressor, plus if my rings are worn, I have my doubts about air holding the valves up.

Also great idea about the socket.
 

kmehr

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I've made to cylinder four, and I may have royally F****D up. Broke a couple of dry rotted vacuum hoses, no big deal. But now that I've gotten the springs replaced on cylinder 4, my handy dandy valve holder rope is very much stuck inside the cylinder. I've tried rotating the engine back and forth, but it's really difficult to spin (me putting it in neutral and grabbing hold of the balancer pulley with both hands. I'll obviously try again tomorrow, but any ideas? What would it possibly get stuck on? I've backed both rocker arms out so the valves are closed.

On another note, the passenger side valve train was significantly sludged up compared to the drivers side, and most of my push rods on both sides had some galling. Should I be concerned?

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Keepinitoldskool

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So the whole rope is in there? Nothing sticking out?

The pushrods dont look great but I would run em until its time for a rebuild.
 

kmehr

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So the whole rope is in there? Nothing sticking out?

The pushrods dont look great but I would run em until its time for a rebuild.

There's plenty of rope sticking out. I'm scared to pull too hard and break it in there. My theory is its punched in one of the valves. Rained today so I didn't have a chance to give it another go.

What is the cause of the wear on the pushrods? Bad lifter? Valve springs?
 

98_k1500

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I'd be looking into some junkyard pushrods. Those look pretty bad. If its stuck in the valve, tighten the rocker nut until it opens the valve and releases it.
 

kmehr

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I'd be looking into some junkyard pushrods. Those look pretty bad. If its stuck in the valve, tighten the rocker nut until it opens the valve and releases it.

Looks like a new set is only $35 at Advance. What causes this type of push rod wear though?
 
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