Is this axle bad? (95 C1500 2WD)

[RichLo]

Not sure what the oil is on the opposite tire but you didn't damage anything on the fallen side besides maybe the backing plate. Dont worry about it, sht happens, dont beat yourself up.

Just be glad you weren't under it

 

[Caman96]

If it were me, at this time, I’d be replacing wheel bearings and seals on both sides.

 

[someotherguy]

Just be glad you weren't under it

This, this, and this!

Jackstand tipped over because it was on that gravel? Do yourself a big favor and get some thick plywood to put under the stands.

Richard

 

[Caman96]

This, this, and this!

Jackstand tipped over because it was on that gravel? Do yourself a big favor and get some thick plywood to put under the stands.

Richard

I always do this, even on pavement(especially in summer).

 

[Scooterwrench]

Those "bad" areas are where the seal lips make contact with the axle. The bearing surface looks good. Polish the bad spots with 120 grit making sure you get down in the bottom of those grooves and carry on.
Make sure you lubricate the new seal lips before you slide the axles back in or they will burn out within 50 miles.

 

[tireshark]

Pulled the passenger tire, pried back the boot on the cylinder a bit, and brake fluid started leaking, so I guess the fluid on that tire was brake fluid from an existing leak. I took that axle out to inspect it, and it is in a lot better shape than the driver side was. There are 2 small lines that I can feel, but a nail doesn't catch on them, and it feels smooth overall. I'm going to lightly hit it with the emery and put it back in.

So in total I will be replacing the driver axle shaft with with the '96 axle, replacing both seals, both brake cylinders, and using new shoes/hardware on the driver side. The brakes on the passenger side still look really good. It's possible some brake fluid got on those shoes, but I"ll probably just wash them off with water and brake cleaner (unless there's a better method) and go with it. I've read people saying cleaning is ok, and others saying that they should be replaced.

Make sure you lubricate the new seal lips before you slide the axles back in or they will burn out within 50 miles.

Based on the TRQ/1AAuto video, I was planning on using Permatex Ultra Black RTV gasket maker where the blue arrow is, some gear oil (80-90) at the red arrow where it touches the axle, and then pour some gear oil on the bearings.

At the diff, I will use blue threadlocker on the bolt that holds the pin, and the Ultra Black gasket maker around the diff cover. Does this sound ok, or is there other/more I should do?

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Thanks to all for the input.

 

[Erik the Awful]

but I"ll probably just wash them off with water and brake cleaner (unless there's a better method) and go with it. I've read people saying cleaning is ok, and others saying that they should be replaced.

When I got WCJr back on the road, my rear wheel cylinders immediately started leaking onto my new shoes. I wasn't about to toss a brand new pair of shoes. I used rubbing alcohol to clean them and it worked great without hurting the friction material.

At the diff, I will use blue threadlocker on the bolt that holds the pin

DO NOT REUSE THE PINION SHAFT LOCK BOLT. All the parts stores have it in stock, cheap, and it comes with thread locker already on it. Always replace that bolt. If it snaps off it's a royal PITA to extract, and that's with the $80 extractor kit.

 

[tireshark]

I've been too busy to work on this, but I was looking at it tonight, and saw that one of the small gears fell off at some point.

Is this a big deal, or does it just wedge in between something when I put the axles back in? Is it something I will be able to do by myself?

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[Schurkey]

Yup, it just crams in there somewhere. The photo doesn't show for sure where it goes. Could be a spider gear, could be a side gear (most likely spider.) Either way, when the cross-shaft goes back in, it's in there securely.