Is this axle bad? (95 C1500 2WD)

[tireshark]

95 C1500 2WD

Symptom was losing brake fluid. No noises, and the ride was smooth and straight. Had fluid on inside of rear tire, so ordered a wheel cylinder, but when I pulled the drum everything was covered in sludge, both ends of the cylinder were off, the friction material was completely off each shoe and in pieces, and the springs and adjuster were all loose in the drum... looked like a bomb went off, no idea why low brake fluid was the only symptom.

Anyway, I pulled the axle so I could replace the axle seal, and when inspecting the axle this is what I found. This is my first time messing with axles, so I dont know what is normal/acceptable. Here is a picture:

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The upper blue arrow I can feel, but my nail doesn't catch, and I'm assuming it's normal, but don't know. The lower blue arrow is a deep gouge almost all the way around... is that normal?

The yellow area is where I assume there is definitely an issue... it's slightly raised and catches my nail all the way around. Is this material that has transferred to the axle? Is it an issue? If so, can it be cleaned or resurfaced?

I have a 96 C1500 2WD that is broken down... if this axle is bad, can I use one out of that truck?

Thanks for any assistance!

 

[Supercharged111]

That axle shaft is hosed. How's the other side look?

 

[tireshark]

That axle shaft is hosed. How's the other side look?

I wasn't planning on removing it, but I guess I can take it out since I already have the diff cover off.

Are axles able to be resurfaced or anything? If not, do you think the axle in my 96 would work, assuming it's in good condition?

 

[Schurkey]

Perhaps a moderator will move this thread out of ENGINES and into Axles + Brakes.

Welcome to the horse-shiiit 254mm (10") leading-trailing shoe drum brakes that never get adjusted because nobody uses the park brake. You'll need to totally rebuild the rear brakes, probably including the park brake cable(s), and then start using the park brake frequently.


1. Get two feet of emery cloth, polish the axle shaft where the machined surface is.

2. AFTER polishing, look for evidence of damage where the bearing rides, and where the seal rides. Common for seals to cut a groove in the shaft they ride on. Somewhat less common is for the bearing to destroy the machined surface it rides on.

Pitting outside of the seal groove means very little. Your lower blue arrow is nothing to be concerned about. Pitting into the seal groove will seep fluid, and requires replacing the axle shaft.

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This seal area has "witness mark" from seal contact, but isn't deep enough to cause a problem.

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This is about the most-mild bearing surface damage I've seen. Sometimes the bearing digs a gouge an eighth-inch deep and as wide as the bearing rollers.

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Axle shafts do not get "resurfaced". Sometimes the seal can be positioned differently in the housing so it rides on a non-damaged part of the shaft. There are bearing-and-seal assemblies ("axle-saver" bearings) that can band-aid a damaged axle shaft, but the damage is a stress riser that can lead to breakage and a runaway wheel.

If you don't have a source of "spare" axle shaft(s) in usable condition, consider replacing the ENTIRE axle assembly with one that has the much-better 11.x Duo-Servo rear brakes. The 9.5" axle upgrade from a light-duty 3/4 ton is easy on 4WD, but tougher on 2WD because the axle shafts are set up for 6 lug studs, which means different wheels to go with the upgraded axle, or custom axle shafts.

 

[Supercharged111]

Perhaps a moderator will move this thread out of ENGINES and into Axles + Brakes.

Welcome to the horse-shiiit 254mm (10") leading-trailing shoe drum brakes that never get adjusted because nobody uses the park brake. You'll need to totally rebuild the rear brakes, probably including the park brake cable(s), and then start using the park brake frequently.


1. Get two feet of emery cloth, polish the axle shaft where the machined surface is.

2. AFTER polishing, look for evidence of damage where the bearing rides, and where the seal rides. Common for seals to cut a groove in the shaft they ride on. Somewhat less common is for the bearing to destroy the machined surface it rides on.

Pitting outside of the seal groove means very little. Your lower blue arrow is nothing to be concerned about. Pitting into the seal groove will seep fluid, and requires replacing the axle shaft.

You must be registered for see images attach

This seal area has "witness mark" from seal contact, but isn't deep enough to cause a problem.

You must be registered for see images attach

This is about the most-mild bearing surface damage I've seen. Sometimes the bearing digs a gouge an eighth-inch deep and as wide as the bearing rollers.

You must be registered for see images attach

Axle shafts do not get "resurfaced". Sometimes the seal can be positioned differently in the housing so it rides on a non-damaged part of the shaft. There are bearing-and-seal assemblies ("axle-saver" bearings) that can band-aid a damaged axle shaft, but the damage is a stress riser that can lead to breakage and a runaway wheel.

If you don't have a source of "spare" axle shaft(s) in usable condition, consider replacing the ENTIRE axle assembly with one that has the much-better 11.x Duo-Servo rear brakes. The 9.5" axle upgrade from a light-duty 3/4 ton is easy on 4WD, but tougher on 2WD because the axle shafts are set up for 6 lug studs, which means different wheels to go with the upgraded axle, or custom axle shafts.

That yellow arrow doesn't look like death to you? Looks gouged to hell and back from internet land. Wouldn't take long with some emery cloth to be good and sure though I suppose.

 

[Schurkey]

Yeah, it "looks" horrible.

Polish it and see what happens.

 

[tireshark]

Get two feet of emery cloth, polish the axle shaft where the machined surface is.

Will this work? If so should I start with medium, and finish with fine? Use lubricant, or just wrap it around with a shoestring?

I'll probably also pull the axle out of the 96 to see what it looks like.

Thanks for all your help.

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[Schurkey]

Years ago, the shop supplied 80-grit emery cloth rolls. 1" wide x 20 yards long, maybe. That's what we used to polish axle shafts.

Now that I'm buying my own, I'm using finer-grip emery rolls. 120, maybe. I forget. Norton or 3M. I got some NAPA-branded stuff one time--made in China.

Point is, anything 80-grit or finer is "good enough". Polish around the shaft, not in-line with the shaft. Won't take much before you know if the shaft is usable.

I polish dry, but be sure to wipe the shaft afterward to remove metal particles and sanding dust.

 

[Caman96]

I have a 96 C1500 2WD that is broken down... if this axle is bad, can I use one out of that truck?

I’d definitely look at those axles, easy enough swap.

 

[tireshark]

Are the left and right axles the same? I didn't think about it earlier, but the 96 isn't easily moveable right now, and there isn't enough clearance to get the left side out.