Coroner81
Newbie
There were some lengthy posts above, so I'm not going to quote all 3, but I'll address the main points of each.
454: my fronts bled perfectly fine. I was expecting the same with the rears, but had no luck. Which is where I am now.
AvgJoe: That sounds very similar to what I've been going through. We had discussed the possibility of a prop valve issue this morning, and if that's the case, the place I bought it from isn't going to be happy.
The definition of insanity is trying the same thing over and over and expecting a different result. My flares appeared fine, and weren't leaking fluid. On a molecular level, air molecules are smaller, so it's possible to leak air, and not fluid. A thin layer of Teflon was used to try to eliminate air between threads as a possible problem. I wasn't using Teflon to create the seal for hydraulic fluid.
I tried the 2 man method, and vacuum bleeding. Neither worked. I don't have a pressure bleeder, and wasn't about to buy one, as I expected the same results. I never pump the brake pedal, I use slow strokes down, as well as up.
My fiancé has a 92 Blazer, which I believe has the same brake system, or at least similar to what you have. We've had no issues with her system yet, but playful to remove the ABS in the future as well.
Schurkey: We have tried the 2 man method of bleeding as well, closed bleeder while the pedal was still being depressed. Still no luck.
The MC was bench bled until piston travel didn't exceed 1/8". The pedal is rock hard with it installed, and ports blocked. Just for poops and giggles I tried parking the truck both with the rear higher and the front higher. There were no small pockets of air being released.
I have found that the rubber coated handle of channel locks works quite well in working the piston, and when fully opened, gives you a bit of a handle, and is a little more comfortable to use.
I don't believe gravity bleeding would fix the issue of air being pulled in. I could gravity bleed until im blue in the face, depressing the pedal with everything closed causes it to drop almost instantly. I don't have access to a pressure bleeder, I was using the 2 man method instead. Between last year, and this year, all the lines are brand new, and rust free. I had rust on the lines on the axle, and replaced those with no change.
Your mention of a faulty proportion valve, which it's a combo valve, but most people generally call it a PV, falls in line with what AvgJoe said above, and what I discussed with the mechanic here.
The brake light pigtail is in my possession, and when I have the truck back, I'll figure out how to wire it in.
454: my fronts bled perfectly fine. I was expecting the same with the rears, but had no luck. Which is where I am now.
AvgJoe: That sounds very similar to what I've been going through. We had discussed the possibility of a prop valve issue this morning, and if that's the case, the place I bought it from isn't going to be happy.
The definition of insanity is trying the same thing over and over and expecting a different result. My flares appeared fine, and weren't leaking fluid. On a molecular level, air molecules are smaller, so it's possible to leak air, and not fluid. A thin layer of Teflon was used to try to eliminate air between threads as a possible problem. I wasn't using Teflon to create the seal for hydraulic fluid.
I tried the 2 man method, and vacuum bleeding. Neither worked. I don't have a pressure bleeder, and wasn't about to buy one, as I expected the same results. I never pump the brake pedal, I use slow strokes down, as well as up.
My fiancé has a 92 Blazer, which I believe has the same brake system, or at least similar to what you have. We've had no issues with her system yet, but playful to remove the ABS in the future as well.
Schurkey: We have tried the 2 man method of bleeding as well, closed bleeder while the pedal was still being depressed. Still no luck.
The MC was bench bled until piston travel didn't exceed 1/8". The pedal is rock hard with it installed, and ports blocked. Just for poops and giggles I tried parking the truck both with the rear higher and the front higher. There were no small pockets of air being released.
I have found that the rubber coated handle of channel locks works quite well in working the piston, and when fully opened, gives you a bit of a handle, and is a little more comfortable to use.
I don't believe gravity bleeding would fix the issue of air being pulled in. I could gravity bleed until im blue in the face, depressing the pedal with everything closed causes it to drop almost instantly. I don't have access to a pressure bleeder, I was using the 2 man method instead. Between last year, and this year, all the lines are brand new, and rust free. I had rust on the lines on the axle, and replaced those with no change.
Your mention of a faulty proportion valve, which it's a combo valve, but most people generally call it a PV, falls in line with what AvgJoe said above, and what I discussed with the mechanic here.
The brake light pigtail is in my possession, and when I have the truck back, I'll figure out how to wire it in.
