Idles fine then drops RPM and dies

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95z71performer

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Alright so I had my truck start trying to die on my way home the other day where it would drop 500 RPM for no reason and sputter It has plenty of gas and I also did a tune-up with a new TPS sensor and MAP sensor and it is still doing it at idle now and I'm lost so is my dad and uncle and a mechanic I know
 

Scotty.92

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What does it exactly do? Does the engine stall at all? Does do it when it is cold or when hot?

I know on my truck it just had the ICM replaced and fixed my problem. When it warmed up to operating temp, it would stall. I`m not sure if this would have anything to do with it but thought I may as well try and help.
 

95z71performer

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It idles fine until operating temp then it has issues and stalls because the RPM drops to low but I'm still lost as to why it's still having issues with it in going to take a video later tonight when I get back home and post it to try and help
 
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great white

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What year is the truck?

Are there any active or stored trouble codes?
 

great white

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You need o2 sensors for the truck to run properly.

Especially once out of open loop/cold enrichment mode...
 

great white

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Do they make s delete kit that's cheaper then o2 sensors cause I can only find the one I need for $123. And some change

No. The ECM requires the O2 feedback in order to properly trim the fuel.

Without one, it will run like crap.


It works like this:

The ECM runs the truck in "open loop" when it is cold. It is called open loop because it does not use the O2 sensors. It defaults to a fixed fueling table based on engine temperature. It doesn't look at the O2 sensors because it is in cold enrichment mode. If it were to poll the O2 sensors when cold it would only see rich running anyways (like it should).

Once the Engine temperature is in the specified range, it switches to "closed loop". Meaning: it now monitors the O2 sensors. it uses the O2 sensors to know if the engine is running in proper stoichiometry. This is the big name for proper air fuel ratio for proper engine running.

Without O2 sensors, the ECM cannot tell if it is running properly in closed loop. it sees "0" voltage from the O2 sensor circuit and assumes it is running lean since "0" and it will start dialing in fuel and it goes rich. too rich and it will stall since an over rich air fuel mixture will not burn properly.

Often, 0v will trip the ECM back into open loop since it thinks the o2 sensor is not ready. It will run like crap in Open loop and a warm engine because it will be too rich.

If it doesn't trip back to open loop, it will then try to increase fueling (because it sees 0v) in an attempt to reach stoich. A "delete kit" would be the same as no O2 sensors: wrong information to the O2 sensors, run like crap.

With no O2 sensors, this is likely your problem with stalling when at operating temp. Mileage will also suck.

You need an O2 sensor in the exhaust to run a FI engine.
 
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95z71performer

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That makes sense now that I know what the o2 sensor really does I'm getting some put in do I need one or two cause I only have one spot on my headers
 

great white

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That makes sense now that I know what the o2 sensor really does I'm getting some put in do I need one or two cause I only have one spot on my headers

Depends on your vehicle but I believe there was only one in 95.

What happened to the one that was in there?

Did you remove it or did you buy it like that?
 
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