Hood release Cable

[ChRoNo16]

Truck is a 1997 K1500 ECSB, my question is-

for the hood latch release cable, is yours secured to the inside of the driver fender? Mine isnt and I am not able to get the latch to release when pulling the handle

 

[Drunkcanuk]

Are you saying you have to smack the hood a bunch of times to get it to release?

If so, there are big hex head rubber things on each side of the radiator, they pop the hood up. If they are screwed all the way down, they don't work, so screw them out.
If that's not your problem, hopefully someone else chimes in.

 

[strikk]

The cable being secured to the fender most likely isn't a make or break issue, as Drunkcanuk mentioned the rubber bumpers are super important. Next up on the list is simply lubrication of the hood latch, make sure the mechanism is moving properly. You can test it by sticking a screwdriver against the latch and making it go through its paces. Grease it up if it's not springing back properly.

 

[pressureangle]

Truck is a 1997 K1500 ECSB, my question is-

for the hood latch release cable, is yours secured to the inside of the driver fender? Mine isnt and I am not able to get the latch to release when pulling the handle

First, if the cable is in good condition it really only matters that it is appropriately secured at the housing ends. What happens in between can go pretty much anywhere.
On my most recent, a '94 k2500 with 480k miles, the latch was hard to release and after a lot of banging and whining and lubricating, I discovered while replacing the battery on the driver side (6.5 diesel) that the cable housing was broken in 2 places where I couldn't see it with the battery in. The housing had rusted/rubbed/flexed enough to break, and so couldn't hold sufficiently when I pulled the lever. So check your housing carefully from end to end in addition to lubricating everything and making sure your hood corner bumpers are high enough to contribute to opening.

 

[Hipster]

Lube the latch. Look at the cable make sure it's clipped in the latch securely. The plastic end can become separated, and the cable ends up just of half-arsed hanging there. A kink in the cable or built-up grit in it can be problematic. When the bumper stops are too high It normally doesn't close nice either. The latch is height and side to side adjustable as well, the striker needs to come down in the center of the latch.

 

[ChRoNo16]

no, this isnt the having to bump the hood to open it, the outer plastic of the cable is broken up front by the radiator support, I lubed the latch, ill lube it again once I get it open.

I got a cable to replace it, just wasnt sure if it needed to be "secured" along the fender. Since I am replacing the hood ill have to re-adjust the bump stops anyways

 

[someotherguy]

Oh yeah.. you definitely want to replace that cable ASAP. To get back in there you can make a hook shape out of a coathanger and reach through the grille to pull the latch where the cable connects.

Richard