Engine problems

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Zach Beckman

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Hey new here. I have a 1995 Tahoe 2 door 350 tbi. I've gone through 4 alternators in the past year. the first one was from age. The second one was a faulty alternator. The 3rd one was from power steering fluid spraying on to it. Now I'm on my 4th one. About a month ago I was sitting at a red light and I felt the truck shutter, I didn't notice anything so I went about the rest of the day. Within the last week I've now notice the truck shutters like its going to shut off but the volts come down with it. the volts now fluctuate when driving from 14-12. I've hooked up a multimeter to alternator and battery and both say 14.5. I've had both of them tested and they are both fine. I've added new frame to engine and frame to body grounds and I've put an all new positive battery cable (starter to battery to alternator) it seems to be getting worse. it only happens after the truck is warmed up and only while in drive. new plugs wires distributor cap rotor and egr. I cant seem to figure out why the voltage drops suddenly then picks back up like nothing.
 

Austin

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Hey new here. I have a 1995 Tahoe 2 door 350 tbi. I've gone through 4 alternators in the past year. the first one was from age. The second one was a faulty alternator. The 3rd one was from power steering fluid spraying on to it. Now I'm on my 4th one. About a month ago I was sitting at a red light and I felt the truck shutter, I didn't notice anything so I went about the rest of the day. Within the last week I've now notice the truck shutters like its going to shut off but the volts come down with it. the volts now fluctuate when driving from 14-12. I've hooked up a multimeter to alternator and battery and both say 14.5. I've had both of them tested and they are both fine. I've added new frame to engine and frame to body grounds and I've put an all new positive battery cable (starter to battery to alternator) it seems to be getting worse. it only happens after the truck is warmed up and only while in drive. new plugs wires distributor cap rotor and egr. I cant seem to figure out why the voltage drops suddenly then picks back up like nothing.






I've got this same problem, new 275 amp alternator. Waiting on a digital voltage gauge to confirm if the factory cluster one is accurate which I doubt. It'll be nice seeing accurate voltage on the fly. New AGM battery seem to help a bit. My dash lights do dim a bit when's it's warmed up and idling. We'll see how it goes
 

Zach Beckman

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I've got this same problem, new 275 amp alternator. Waiting on a digital voltage gauge to confirm if the factory cluster one is accurate which I doubt. It'll be nice seeing accurate voltage on the fly. New AGM battery seem to help a bit. My dash lights do dim a bit when's it's warmed up and idling. We'll see how it goes
Let me know how it works
 

Tavi

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I had a similar issue a few months back. Ultimately both my battery and alternator failed and ended up being replaced. Both tested normal prior to the failure and now I have no issues.
 

Steve A

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About a month ago I was sitting at a red light and I felt the truck shutter, I didn't notice anything so I went about the rest of the day. Within the last week I've now notice the truck shutters like its going to shut off but the volts come down with it. the volts now fluctuate when driving from 14-12. I've hooked up a multimeter to alternator and battery and both say 14.5. I've had both of them tested and they are both fine. I've added new frame to engine and frame to body grounds and I've put an all new positive battery cable (starter to battery to alternator) it seems to be getting worse. it only happens after the truck is warmed up and only while in drive. new plugs wires distributor cap rotor and egr. I cant seem to figure out why the voltage drops suddenly then picks back up like nothing.

The shudder sounds like the alternator has a bad bearing and when the rotor contacts the armature that is the shudder with volts dropping to battery level.
 
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