Dug into my front suspension today. Now I have a steering knuckle question.

[DeCaff2007]

That looks like someone hit it with a cutting torch.

Actually, I was thinking it was an electric cut off wheel.

I can get another from the yard probably pretty easily, depending how much of a PITA the CV axle and upper ball joint wants to be.

So, I'm on to my next impossible mission here. Torsion bars. I've been dreading tacking the job because I ALREADY KNOW that said bar is rusted fast into both the LCA and the key in the crossmember.

Well, I saw a video where a guy drilled a few holes in the key and cracked it open with a chisel. That might have worked for me, had I not broken the drill bit off in the last hole I had to drill . I've tried about everything I can think of for tonight. I might just get up in there with the torch and melt the lower part of the key off. Even that doesn't guarantee that the torsion bar will break loose.

I really DON'T want to cut the torsion bar off. Seriously. I'd actually be more comfortable CUTTING SLOTS IN THE CROSSMEMBER if it meant getting the torsion keys out just that much easier. Then, I can always replace or weld the crossmember back together.

Lastly, once I have the LCA/torsion bar combo on the bench, I can work it much easier.

Ugh......

 

[Schurkey]

Why are you taking the torsion bars out? Replacing them with different ones--different spring rate?

If all you're doing is replacing lower control arm bushings, you don't even need to remove the control arms from the torsion bar. At least, not if you're installing Polyurethane bushing inserts.

 

[DeCaff2007]

Why are you taking the torsion bars out? Replacing them with different ones--different spring rate?

If all you're doing is replacing lower control arm bushings, you don't even need to remove the control arms from the torsion bar. At least, not if you're installing Polyurethane bushing inserts.

@Schurkey normally you give some pretty sound advice, sir. In this case, however, it's necessary to remove the torsion bar from at least the crossmember - to be able to take the LCA off the vehicle - to replace the bushings.

I'm not taking the torsion bar off the LCA. Hell no. Especially with the price and availability (or lack thereof) of said bars.

 

[termite]

@Schurkey normally you give some pretty sound advice, sir. In this case, however, it's necessary to remove the torsion bar from at least the crossmember - to be able to take the LCA off the vehicle - to replace the bushings.

I'm not taking the torsion bar off the LCA. Hell no. Especially with the price and availability (or lack thereof) of said bars.

Regardless of whether you're able to separate the torsion bar from the LCA or the key, make a good note of how they are clocked in relation to one another. I played hell with one of my LCAs, the other was a challenge but not nearly as bad. Patience and persistence with it. And a shot of good luck.

 

[Schurkey]

it's necessary to remove the torsion bar from at least the crossmember - to be able to take the LCA off the vehicle - to replace the bushings.

Of course not.

I put lower control arm bushings (Polyurethane) in my '88 K1500 with the torsion bars still connected on both ends. This was only slightly awkward, and FAR easier than fighting the torsion bar removal.

I expect--but have not verified--that this would also be possible if you were using OEM-style rubber bushings; although pushing the shell out, and the new bushing assembly back in would be more complex. I REFUSE to use bonded-rubber bushings if I can get Poly replacements.

I did have to pry the lower control arm down an inch or two to get the rubber out of the shell, and the Poly insert back in on the rear bushing. Thus the red-handled pry-bar. This does not damage the torsion bar.

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Rear bushing rubber mostly-removed after heating shell with a propane torch. I can't pull on the pry-bar and take a picture at the same time, so the square-stock pry bar is visible, but not providing clearance needed to actually do the work.

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I'm not taking the torsion bar off the LCA. Hell no. Especially with the price and availability (or lack thereof) of said bars.

I have since learned that a two-jaw puller can be used on the control arm to force the torsion bar out of the control arm socket. There's photos on this web-site of that happening, but it's been awhile since I've seen that thread. I'm not going to go looking for it. I have not DONE this, but having seen the photos of the process, it makes perfect sense.

 

[termite]

two-jaw puller

I gave this a shot with my suburban and no dice. Cheap puller I had got busted. Not saying it won't work, just didn't for me.

 

[Schurkey]

I have since learned that a two-jaw puller can be used on the control arm to force the torsion bar out of the control arm socket. There's photos on this web-site of that happening, but it's been awhile since I've seen that thread. I'm not going to go looking for it.

So despite telling God and everyone that I wasn't going to search for that thread...

Front Lower Control Arms

Update or sort of. I have been working a lot of OT and have not gotten time to install them yet. I am hoping to start on it next weekend. With the added OT i ended up buying everything for the front end. Wheel bearings, CV Axles ETC. I will report back as I go. Sorry for the delay.

www.gmt400.com

Thanks to wb292:

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[termite]

@wb292 Whats the story with that 2-jaw puller? Wishing I had seen that when I did my suburban earlier this year.

 

[Hipster]

So despite telling God and everyone that I wasn't going to search for that thread...

Front Lower Control Arms

Update or sort of. I have been working a lot of OT and have not gotten time to install them yet. I am hoping to start on it next weekend. With the added OT i ended up buying everything for the front end. Wheel bearings, CV Axles ETC. I will report back as I go. Sorry for the delay.

www.gmt400.com

Thanks to wb292:

Dig that puller as well, any info on that?

 

[MIHELA]

All of this is why I went with forged control arms. They are much more rust resistant than the stamped ones. I had to cut my old bars out, and beat the piss out of them to get the remains out of the crossmember. I enlarged the holes in the back of the crossmember so if I have to remove them again I can use a larger punch so it doesn't bend like last time.